oem crossover parts

Hey everybody, I found a 99 impreza 2.5 sohc sedan that has been wrecked out of the game and the owner is deciding to sell the parts of the car. I need a rack and pinion and possibly the auto tranny it has equipped however I'm not sure if they will work for my 95 legacy because of the age difference and that both the impreza and legacy started some changes after those years...much appreciated of I could get some feedback on this, o don't want to take my chances at a you pull yard on the tranny...I somewhat k own the history of the car n question. I did use the search bar but can't find direct info on these or even anything that will lead me to believe that they will pair up to my car...next step would be to call an auto parts store and cross reference all the numbers they give me.

if this is a low end impreza, not a wrx or similar, it does not have a 2.5L engine. it has the phase 2, ej22, 2.2L engine. this will not swap into a 95.

 

i can't remember if the 99 impreza auto trans is phase 2 or not. but if it is it will not swap either.

read the ID# off of the trans bell housing at the starter. if it starts with the same first 6 characters (TZ102Zxxxx) as your trans then it will probably work. list the number and i can tell you yes or no.

 

the rack should be a match, as well as the wheel hub / knuckles and axles.

most of the drive train should be a match. the drive shaft may be a different length. struts will swap.

Sweet, thanks john...the owner says its a sohc 2.5, which tells me its not an rs, I think those had the Dohc right? If the tranny is phase two and will not work with 95 tcu I will have to get the tcu, harness and differential?

 

The steering rack is what I most need, it has a lot of play...it wobbles big time under braking load and has trashed the rod ends, balljoints are going next they are already flat. I know I will need rod ends too but when I buy them should I buy the ones to the rack or the ones for my car?

check out the link below.

imprezas are not my thing. but the low end imprezas, base sedans, wagons, and the outback sport is very similar to the legacy. just slightly smaller.

 

the RS and WRX are a completely different kettle of fish and i have zero experience with them. but i have never read a post where an owner referred to his RS or WRX as an impreza. but you never know.

 

check out the link below and look up the part numbers for the steering rack in the car you are looking at. (ask him RS or WRX?) click on the number. on the new page click on the ''usage info''. it will list all the cars that use that part.

 

http://opposedforces.com/parts/impreza/us_g10/

 

or search the year model and part for the car in question at www.car-part.com and see what the software returns. if they list it , it will fit. unless some dummy at the parts yard entered the info wrong on the computer.

 

i forgot to ask, what is wrong with your steering rack. they do not fail often. and as such used is a safe bet. if the one near you fits, it will probably be cheaper . but there is no read demand for them so there will be a pretty cheap alternative at one of the parts yards.

 

at www.car-part.com put in your zip and sort by distance to see what is close.

then sort by price, scroll to the bottom, and select the shaded page to see if the is a bargain to be had, even with shipping added.

 

good luck.

When I bought the car 3 years ago the rack boots were ripped a bit, I procrastinated on replacing them and now they are flopping around and there is a ton of play. I know they are pretty strong and don't fail often as it still works but there is a lot of play and I mean a lot when the car is off. I'm sure I can get it rebuilt but I can't afford the downtime to take it out and surrender it to a shop to be fixed and have boots replaced.

the most common failure for the racks is leaking fluid. there is no fix for that short of a full rebuild. if you are not leaking fluid the rack is probably still good. but 3 years with torn boots is a long time.

 

the looseness is probably the inner tie rods, that connect to the rack. they are replaceable with the right know how and / or money. and the down time is probably the same as the rack replacement.

 

the issue with the rack replacement is going to be the exhaust. with the exhaust in place the rack may not come out, i do not know.

 

i just did a front sway bar on my 97GT and it is doable , from the driver side with the wheel off. not sure about the rack.

 

the inner tie rods are not hard. you just have to find a way, the right tool, to hold a special locking nut or something like that in order to tighten it.

 

probably not a lot of rust in el paso, but start spraying the bolts now with pblaster, just in case. especially the exhaust studs in the head if you have to do them. an impact gun works great on them.

 

good luck.

The most of the wobble is from the tie rod ends, the rack itself leaks like sieve and did since I bought it. I just assume to replace it and keep mine to rebuild and maybe depower it since Subaru has never manufactured a manual rack. I have had the p/s pump and lines disconnected since I replaced the motor in December.

 

I have the tools, a shop I formerly worked at said his lift is at my disposal so I'm not too worried about the work at hand its mostly about what is available and what swaps over..I would rather buy a used Fuji rack then to buy an A1 cardone rebuilt, mine is original to the car as well so a rebuild would be ideal.

 

I will be going to look at that impreza tomorrow I will report back with what i find out, appreciate your help john...I tried that link you posted but the served is not communicating. Thanks though.

i found this on another forum.

 

http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/66-problems-maintenance/16126-changing-steering-rack.html

 

Hi - just did this last night, so here's how we did it:

 

Remove battery cables (don't want airbags going off), straighten steering wheel, lift, remove wheels, castle nut cotter pins, castle nuts, bang on tie rod ends with hammer to separate.

 

Soak nuts for exhaust, sway bar, and steering rack with PB Blaster.

 

Remove nuts for exhaust, let it drop down (about 4 inches)...there's a flange on mine that hung a bit on the frame, if you work it a bit you can get down about 6 inches without removing it completely (ie: it's still attached to the rest of exhaust).

 

Remove the subframe (or whatever it's called) plate.

 

Remove nuts bolts for sway bar, let it drop down.

 

Undo pinch bolt for steering column u-joint, separate.

 

Unbolt the steering rack, let it drop down a bit (careful of the hard lines - you'll need to swap 2 of them over).

 

Disconnect the power steering lines from the rack (you can do this first if you like, but they are a bit hard to get to from up top and they'll leak all over you) - we found that if you wiggle the rack a bit you can get better access to the PS lines from below.

 

Pull the PS rack out.

 

Swap over the PS rack mounting bracket and rubber bushings from the old rack (the bushings on the passenger side were melted to the rack by the exhaust - you may need a razor to scrape them off in one piece). You might want to do this before the next step because the PS lines get in the way of the mounting bracket.

 

Disconnect the PS lines (the larger 2) from the old rack and swap them over to the new one (might want to get some O-rings from the help aisle - the rack from rockauto came with 2 but it makes sense to replace all 4).

 

Center the new rack (unless the spec sheet says it comes centered) - turn it all the way one way, then all the way back and count the turns...then divide that in half, turn it that many times to center.

 

Slide new rack in (again, careful of the lines). While you still have wiggle room, reconnect the PS lines. Then bolt up the PS rack.

 

Reconnect the steering column (have a buddy keep the wheel straight).

 

Bolt on the sway bar.

 

Install new exhaust gaskets (you did get those, right?) and bolt up exhaust (we have to get a big pry bar to line it up as it kind of pulled back and in - again a buddy would help) -*don't strip these!*

 

Bolt on subframe plate.

 

Install new tie rod ends to new rack (you'll need to save the locking nut from old rack) or transfer the old ones (really should replace them) as described by others here. Put the castle nut and cotter pin and wheels back on.

 

Fill the PS up, reconnect battery, start it up, turn wheel back and forth a couple of times and top off fluid as needed.

 

Get cleaned up. You'll be slathered in trans fluid.