4eat slipping junk yard crap issues

so ive had a lot of bad crap happen with my lego wagon

 

3rd trans was great

got from a kid who went 5spd

had a shift kit in it

but went on a trip for 3 hours straight and almost to wifeys aunts

kid in the back and BOOM

and no 4th/3rd whatever it is and no reverse

found that after pulling in to a gas station

and couldn't back up

only luck was a friend with a trailer was just happen to be coming to the area the next day

 

and more crap it barely fit on it had to go over the wheel hump so my hitch chain holder snapped had to jump through window

and pulled the ebrake before it hit a power pole

 

so anyways more bad

had my dad help get another trans

he found one in a junk yard

they said was great

well got it in and went to fix oil leaks and coolant

 

and had a cam slip took a huge chunk outa my finger

and well got some good heads(gigity)

and started to put them on to find my torque wrench was bad

and stripped the block hole

 

so ya great times got some money from grandma passing so I got a jdm motor

and its great

just to find my trans slips horribly 1st to 2nd

and had a torque bind on turns

 

so I took the rear off the old trans

and swapped it out

 

the torque bind is gone but the slip is just horrible still

 

and went to a buddys and it slipped in park on a slight hill

but cant find the info on whats going on

I saw it somewhere but no luck finding it

any help would be great

 

and yes the at temp light flashes 16 times and havnt gone into the codes yet

having a lil gremlin(kid almost 2)monster) takes a lot of my time

helppppppppppppppppp.

I just want to swap to 5spd but no funds for that yet

so somehow gotta figure a way to fixish this one

have parts from other trans

so ive had a lot of bad crap happen with my lego wagon

 

3rd trans was great

got from a kid who went 5spd

had a shift kit in it

but went on a trip for 3 hours straight and almost to wifeys aunts

kid in the back and BOOM

and no 4th/3rd whatever it is and no reverse

found that after pulling in to a gas station

and couldn't back up

only luck was a friend with a trailer was just happen to be coming to the area the next day

 

and more crap it barely fit on it had to go over the wheel hump so my hitch chain holder snapped had to jump through window

and pulled the ebrake before it hit a power pole

 

so anyways more bad

had my dad help get another trans

he found one in a junk yard

they said was great

well got it in and went to fix oil leaks and coolant

 

and had a cam slip took a huge chunk outa my finger

and well got some good heads(gigity)

and started to put them on to find my torque wrench was bad

and stripped the block hole

 

so ya great times got some money from grandma passing so I got a jdm motor

and its great

just to find my trans slips horribly 1st to 2nd

and had a torque bind on turns

 

so I took the rear off the old trans

and swapped it out

 

the torque bind is gone but the slip is just horrible still

 

and went to a buddys and it slipped in park on a slight hill

but cant find the info on whats going on

I saw it somewhere but no luck finding it

any help would be great

 

and yes the at temp light flashes 16 times and havnt gone into the codes yet

having a lil gremlin(kid almost 2)monster) takes a lot of my time

helppppppppppppppppp.

I just want to swap to 5spd but no funds for that yet

so somehow gotta figure a way to fixish this one

have parts from other trans

 

 

 

so I took the rear off the old trans

and swapped it out

 

the torque bind is gone but the slip is just horrible still

 

and went to a buddys and it slipped in park on a slight hill

but cant find the info on whats going on

THE PARKING ''PAWL'' IS MESSED UP.

THIS IS A COMMON ERROR WHEN REMOVING THE REAR SECTION OF THE AUTO TRANS.

(sorry for the caps.)

 

but i think your ATF level is low.

and the damage may be permanent.

 

if you have installed 3 auto trans and all 3 have had problems,

you are doing something wrong.

 

the at temp light flashes 16 times and havnt gone into the codes yet

this will tell you what is wrong with the electronics in your trans.

sooner is better than later.

 

PS: HOW ABOUT USING SOME PUNCTUATION,

PLEASE?

:jedi:im writing on a mini lab top so bare with me. thanks for reply.

 

I know how to change a trans out.

when I got the car the trans was bad slipping like it is now but the last one was awesome:cool: but the prob with it was the pan was glued on with some crazy stuff that I couldn't get the off with out bending and scratching the hell outa the trans so I put an external filter and ran great till the 3 hours straight then boom felt like getting hit by something.

so now this one.

:confused:I don't see how I messed up when I swaped the rear it was just pull off and put on essentially and after I did it the turning torque bind was gone and just slips hard 1st to 2nd.

 

:spin:I have parts from old trans any way I can look through it and find good parts and make a good one.

:bbq:I think the old trans only had the issue with the 4th and reverse clutches?

ok well today driving it was shuttering shifting hard at slow speeds unless I step on it then itll shift just fine

so the pawl is the shifter selector?

if that's what your talkn about,

I had my dad help me out alil so not sure if that got moved or what.

 

ive been working on cars since 16 but new to subarus

the parking pawl is the catch that locks on a cog to keep the gears from turning,

it is what makes ''park'' work.

there is a spring in the rear extension housing that keeps the pawl in place.

if the spring is dislodged the pawl will nor engage, no park.

 

google, subaru parking pawl.

I had trouble with the pawl engaging on my 4eat when I messed with the neutral safety switch so perhaps it needs some adjustment as well.

it goes into park normally but on a slight hill it was slipping back.

 

adjust the selector or you sayin I gotta take the back piece off again and check the spring.

 

im losing my mind chasing demons on this car I love it but damn shoulda never let the wife decide manual or auto cuz to find out later that she could drive stick since she works for xbox and they have the simulator that shes well versed in soooooooo ya as soon as I can no more auto

 

im gonna hopefully take a look at it this weekend

 

thanks both of ya

and can someone take a pic of a trans stick next to a oil stick my dumbass left it under the hood and lost it but had an extra oil stick trimmed it alil and seems to be where it shoulda been. I know somewhere in my mess of a garage(destroyed since the start of this non stop crap) I have an extra stick but yet to find it

The neutral safety switch is held in by three slotted screws. Loosen them and shift through the gears a few times and tighten it back up. It's possibly to adjust the switch with a spanner wrench as well but I didn't have any luck with that so ymmmv.

ok so I played with the safety switch and it seems to drive a lot better but didn't drive far since ive been drinken again:cool:

 

but also put in some really nice green hoeses ;p

 

and had to trim alil header wrap back since I leaked trans fluid on it and it just kept smoking wifey kept complaining(her moms vanagon caught fire when she was a kid)

okay so drove longer today and was great till it was warmed up and started acting up again but not as bad. im gonna try to find the procedure to adjust it somehow....

I found this diagram. Maybe it will help. It's from a later model but it looks to be the same. I don't remember messing with the stopper pin and maybe that's why mine is still out of adjustment. My SS has a turbo so the downpipe is in the way of the switch so I have to pull it to adjust it again.

 

Also I found this text (there are no diagrams with it) again: "Some 2005-08 Legacy, Outback, Impreza and Forester models with the 4EAT automatic transmission may turn on the MIL and store DTC P0851 and/or P0852 in computer memory. One likely cause for the code(s), reports Subaru, is a misadjusted inhibitor (Neutral safety) switch and gearshift cable. Adjusting both components should turn off the light in a hurry. Here’s the drill:

Start by placing the gearshift lever in Neutral. Now loosen the three inhibitor switch attaching bolts. Using the left-hand illustration on this page as a guide, insert a stopper pin or brass drift into the holes in both the switch lever and body, as shown. Keeping the pin as straight as possible, tighten the switch attaching bolts to 30 in.-lbs.

Now move on to the gearshift cable adjustment. Using the illustration on the right for reference, loosen adjusting nuts A and B of the cable. Now tighten adjusting nut B until it just makes contact with the connector lever. Using a spanner wrench or similar tool to prevent nut B from rotating, torque adjusting nut A to 65 in.-lbs. The cable is now properly adjusted.

To complete the fix, check that the shift detents engage each gear smoothly, the starter turns in Park, the backup lights work in Reverse and the Park lock engages when the shift lever is placed in Park."

thanks so much monkey hopefully get to this 2mro if I don't work(ie doin wifes job play video games its a hard job but somebody has to do it

I did it and does shift better. I used a 5/32 roll pin and crammed it in and got it leveled and definitely do it with something in the holes ; p I really wanna rebuild my old trans. Anyone got the rebuild guide they wanna post up

Oh and when I did the rear part to check it once in park I just pulled off the pin on the inhibitor switch and checked the cable to see how hard it was against itself

still shifts hard 1 to 2nd and worse when warmed up and now getting a

p0748 code

 

I just wanna kill somebody for making me stuck with a damned automatic,

 

my manual car had its issues sometimes but would still work even through one bad trans with seal leak just kept spraying brake cleaner once and awhile and kept going till I fixed it even when one bad gear could still power shift through it lol

 

but this damn automatic keeps me up at night trying to figure it out,

 

I have plenty of parts from the old trans.s

 

I wanna fix/rebuild the old one with shift kit until I get money again then swapping that crap for 5mt fml ftw

p0748 code

shift solenoid A.

either it is bad or it has a bad circuit.

 

shift solenoid A probablt controls the 1-2 shift.

okay so I changed out the whole valve body hoping to get my shift kit one in and fix my problems but instead.

 

so now when I start to go it takes abit to go like its slipping till it catches but once going it seems great

 

ill have a more test drive 2mro so hopefully itll feel better and not boom

 

on start up it still flahes I just cant figure the secret handshake is there a plug ur suppose to put a wire in and ground it

 

ive looked and cant find a straight answer

ok looked alil and found some things about the trans codes being different and they are but how much different could it be

 

im losing my mind

 

I ripped the heart of the trans and put a pig heart and finally stitched it up it

 

now it walks like a slug and runs once going

the codes are pretty close tz102z2aaa-cg on the car and old is tz102z2dca-ke

tz102z2aaa - 96? legacy LSi auto trans?

tz102z2dca - 97/8 GT auto trans

 

they are the same.

Mines a gt. Ya I figured there the same. Finally figured the secret handshake and found 4 sensors bad so gonna rip it apart again and hope my original trans solenoids are good