How To: Replace/Rebuild torn CV boot and/or Axle

Depends how much grease has leaked. If not a lot (as in seepage versus major leak) I'd probably just zip-tie the boot over or behind the clamp, whichever gives you the best compression on the location.

Well the seal is still leaking, looks like I may just have to go to the dealer.

It only leaks after I've driven it around, won't leak just sitting in the garage overnight. I'm frustrated to say the least. I've now installed it with a new seal (verified it was Passenger side part# 806735230) and a reman axle from autozone part 7336. It leaked so I exchanged it for another 7336 at autozone in case something was bad with the first axle, and I bought another axle seal from subaru. I went to a hardware store and bought a short pvc adapter that just fit over the outer edge of the seal and used that to install it into the transmission so the seal edge, the hard outer part, is flush with the transmission face. I used some transmission oil to lube the axle as I carefully installed it into the transmission, so I really do not think the seal was damaged at all. All I can really think is that these autozone 7336 axles that were recommended in this thread are not so great anymore. Maybe however they remanufacture them now takes too much material off where the seal meets the axle?

Anyone have a stock subaru axle laying around and could measure the diameter on the axle where the seal sits? I returned my stock axle to autozone a while back for the core refund.

There's two pieces to this.

 

First is the seal installer tool itself.

 

 

Second is the shaft seal protector

 

 

First tool, or something like your PVC seal-driver, needs to seat the seal properly into the housing. The second tool, protects the seal from the shaft splines as they slide into the diff. I've found that if you force the axle shaft into that seal, it will seep then leak over time, sometimes almost immediately.

Can anyone get those tools, or only dealerships? Do you know where to order them?

Subaru's SPX site, where they sell all their specialty tools.

 

http://www.subaru.spx.com

 

Part Nrs:

Axle shaft seal installer - 18675AA000, $32.00

Axle shaft protector - 28399SA010, $27.00

Well I took my car to the dealer, they felt it was the remanufactured axles that were the problem. They said a while back their own remans actually had a problem where when refurbished the part where the seal rides had a very slight spiral cut or pattern. Basically this worked fine on the drivers side as the natural tendency was to pull the oil back towards the transmission. But on the passenger side that spiral tended to push oil out of the seal. So it would only leak while driving, when stationary there was no problem.

I thought I read somewhere that the Autozone 7336 were remanufactured by the same place that Subaru had their axles remanufactured so if true that would make sense on the problem. So, all I can say is those of you buying Autozone 7336 axles be careful. Both axles I got from Autozone recently had that spiral cut problem and leaked.

Have never had the problem with 7336. Have installed probably 100 of them now.

How did you put the axle seal in? On the 5MT, the piece the seal resides in can get unscrewed from the transmission for easy seal removal/installation.

My seal leaks also. Subaru reman axle, passenger side. On my 3rd seal now, probably still leaking. My mechanic has been stumped by this. Axle put in last fall, seal replaced at almost every oil change due to leaking. IIRC, he just places the seal in by hand, then pops in the axle (as he does with all other cars). What is so different with the subie? Is there a special process for install so it doesn't leak?

 

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2

.....All this talk of leaking seals and trouble with axles has me worried!

 

I just noticed the split boot on my front passenger CV. The install looks pretty painless but the lack of solid info regarding quality replacement part is troubling! I'm ok with paying more for the part if it last ~100K like the current units. I just get tired of always repairing the repair I just did...

 

Rock Auto seems to have a few options, none of which are reman axles...or perhaps they just don't tell you? I like the idea of the lifetime warranty though from Autozone or NAPA. A few have had good luck with the NAPA part...

 

Any help would be appreciated!

Get the Autozone one as suggested. Hassle-free returns at a local shop always beat having the car out of operation while you wait on an Internet exchange. Next time I have an issue, I'm just going to get the Autozone one. The cost of the axle with the core return negates the cost by saving my free time.

 

 

I've rebooted both front axles (one inner, other outer), but I noticed the issue very early on and did not suffer damage as a result. I highly doubt I'll need to fix it again.

The dealer told me I had installed the seal fine, flush with transmission. They thought the leak was definitely the result of defect on the reman axle. If you do get an autozone 7336 it may work fine, but I know I got 2 that must have been part of the defective reman group. I'm not sure how many axles had the defect, just be prepared to do some returns if you notice it leaking.

Quick question on the Autozone Cardone 60-7336 part.

 

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/_/N-6o2dc?itemIdentifier=617210_0_1156_3498%2C6542

 

Is this an OEM axle that's just been rebuilt? Will it not have any of the vibration problems that the other 3rd party ones do?

 

Also, I have an '05 LGT, manufactured in late '04. Not sure if it will fit for sure.

That doesn't fit. Unless you have a Suzuki.

 

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/2005-Subaru-Legacy-AWD/CV-Axle/_/N-jngwlZ6o2dc

 

You want the Duralast 7336 (60-7355) part, not the 60-7336. The Duralast has gotten good reviews here. If it gives you a problem, take it back and get a replacement.

Edited July 28, 2013 by compsurge

Another word of wisdom: When replacing one of the boots, it might be wise to do both. I have replaced the outer on my DS and inner on my PS and now both of the others are seeping small amounts of grease

 

Alright, since i couldn't find how to do this anywhere online i will include all of the search terms i tried... so someone else in my situation can find this.

 

TO REMOVE THE OUTER CV JOINT:

There is a splined section with a snap ring on it. Take the half shaft out, clamp the shaft in a vice, and use a large socket extension (3/4" is nice) and smack it with a large hammer a few times.

 

You won't be able to find a large snap ring like inner CV, because there's isn't one there!

 

My PS outer boot is letting little drops of grease out from two small holes that appear to be from mechanical damage rather than age and deterioration. I have the Beck Arnley replacement boot and the banding tool.

 

The factory manual says the outer joint on my 2005 OBXT can't be disassembled, implying I'd have to remove the non-leaking inner joint and slide the new boot over that end.

 

Andyjo's post above seems to be saying that once the axle is out and the boot is off, I should be able to drive the joint (which I'm interpreting the descriptions to mean is a ball-and-cage style) off the shaft with a large punch? Does this mean the entire joint and outer stub come off as an assembly, or does the outer cup slide off, leaving the greasy ball and cage parts? Is it reasonably straightforward for someone who's very mechanically experienced?

Duralast should currently be rebuilt OEM units. Not third party parts.

I haven't noticed any dripping on mine but could the seal still be damaged. I'm just paranoid when it comes to this car.

I looked and its dry, so it's safe to say that's its ok right?

Yes.

My PS outer boot is letting little drops of grease out from two small holes that appear to be from mechanical damage rather than age and deterioration. I have the Beck Arnley replacement boot and the banding tool.

 

The factory manual says the outer joint on my 2005 OBXT can't be disassembled, implying I'd have to remove the non-leaking inner joint and slide the new boot over that end.

 

Andyjo's post above seems to be saying that once the axle is out and the boot is off, I should be able to drive the joint (which I'm interpreting the descriptions to mean is a ball-and-cage style) off the shaft with a large punch? Does this mean the entire joint and outer stub come off as an assembly, or does the outer cup slide off, leaving the greasy ball and cage parts? Is it reasonably straightforward for someone who's very mechanically experienced?

 

Sorry for the delay. I had no problem doing the outer boot with the axle still installed in the transmission. I removed the axle nut and unfastened the control arm via the strut mount bolts. The process for booting is the same as the inner CV joint. I might have used a rubber mallet in the process, I don't recall. It was very straightforward.

 

Be sure to buy a 32mm socket (get a metric Harbor Freight set on sale) and an impact gun (Kobalt/DeWalt) Best $180 spent ever.

Edited August 20, 2013 by compsurge

Thanks for the response.

 

Already had the socket (thanks, Suzuki) and access to impact and air tools. Bought a torque wrench that will cover 162 ft-lbs. You would too if the wheel had ever come off your race car because the CV axle nut was overtorqued with an impact.

This doable without an impact?

 

Sent from my SGH-T699 using Tapatalk 2