gingerbreadmanGT Posted March 16, 2012 Share Posted March 16, 2012 Can anyone tell me if the a/c condenser can be replaced without draining and fully removing radiator? Or is there just not enough room? I need to change it out this weekend but there is snow in the forecast so im trying not to do it the hard/long way, unless its better to. Its funny how installing a $50 trans cooler set up could turn into a $175 a/c condenser replacement if you forget the the said condenser is right behind the support your drilling for a second mounting hole for your trans cooler. these are the 3 emotions i felt all in a matter of 3 seconds Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted March 16, 2012 Share Posted March 16, 2012 these are the 3 emotions i felt all in a matter of 3 seconds ^sorry not really helping here but that comment is hilarious! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gingerbreadmanGT Posted March 18, 2012 Author Share Posted March 18, 2012 Update...yes the a/c condenser can easily be changed without removing radiator. Just remove top radiator brackets and lean it towards motor. Just incase anyone ever needs to replace the condenser. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted March 18, 2012 Share Posted March 18, 2012 good job man. thanks for letting all of us know. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cyclozene Posted March 19, 2012 Share Posted March 19, 2012 Beat me too it. Take off the fans it frees a lot more room than you think. It's quite nice! —Pirated Tapatalk app Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gingerbreadmanGT Posted March 19, 2012 Author Share Posted March 19, 2012 thanks yeah i thought about asking you in your thread if it seemed like there was enough room. I was able to to do it without even removing fans and it went pretty fast so i was happy with that cause it started to snow while I was doing it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cyclozene Posted March 19, 2012 Share Posted March 19, 2012 Well good job! I'm glad everything worked out great! —Pirated Tapatalk app Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BeauTofAWD Posted May 1, 2013 Share Posted May 1, 2013 So glad I checked this thread! The stealership just quoted me $700 to replace the condenser! The $90 part and an hour or two of my time is totally worth the savings! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aziankingz Posted June 8, 2013 Share Posted June 8, 2013 anyone have a walkthrough for the condenser install? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwiener2 Posted June 8, 2013 Share Posted June 8, 2013 Have a shop replace it. You don't have the tools or equipment to properly service the refrigerant. My Mods List (Updated 8/22/17) 2005 Outback FMT Running on Electrons Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BeauTofAWD Posted June 10, 2013 Share Posted June 10, 2013 My system was completely empty... I recharged it myself with refrigerant from the parts store. The condenser is super easy to do, it took me about an hour and one busted knuckle... Wish I would have made a walk through to post! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwiener2 Posted June 10, 2013 Share Posted June 10, 2013 So how did you pull a vacuum on the system? My Mods List (Updated 8/22/17) 2005 Outback FMT Running on Electrons Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BeauTofAWD Posted June 11, 2013 Share Posted June 11, 2013 Vacuum? After I had everything back together, I attached the can of refrigerant (with the gauge) to the low side a/c port near the turbo and recharged the system until it was at the appropriate PSI according to the instructions on the can. You do have to be cautious to not recharge the high side a/c port and to not overcharge the system. Luckily, I hear that the low and high side ports are different sizes so the refrigerant cans will only fit the correct port. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwiener2 Posted June 12, 2013 Share Posted June 12, 2013 Yeah. That's a whole lot of I don't know what I'm doing. You need to put a high vacuum on the system, essentially removing all air and moisture from inside the lines, BEFORE you can add refrigerant. If you don't do this, acid will form inside the lines and slowly eat away at everything. A/C systems are generally not user serviceable. The fact the anyone can buy a can of R134a at the auto parts store is a major loophole in the system. My Mods List (Updated 8/22/17) 2005 Outback FMT Running on Electrons Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aziankingz Posted June 12, 2013 Share Posted June 12, 2013 I was just asking about the a/c condenser install. Seems simple enough to change yourself. I just need a general idea on how to do install it. I already have a shop lined up to do the evacuation and refrigerant, plus o-rings for about $100. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted June 12, 2013 Share Posted June 12, 2013 Its very easy to change condenser. If your system was already empty then all you do is : Remove front grill, 2 popits and 2 bolts remove the 2 fans along with the small coolant tube and hoses that connect to reservoir, top of tank and turbo reservoir , 4 bolts remove the radiator brackets on top and the little bracket in middle that holds the thing for holding hood open, 3 bolts remove top hose from compressor side, the one that goes to top connection on condenser, and remove the bottom hose from the condenser. Then remove the 2 bolts in front that bolt the condenser to the car. At this point you lean the radiator forward and wiggle out the condenser, take of the top hose from old condenser and swap it to new one. After you change everything do not charge system until you either hook up a hvac evac pump or a vacuum pump something like http://www.harborfreight.com/25-cfm-vacuum-pump-98076.html $90 or if you have an air tank http://www.harborfreight.com/air-vacuum-pump-with-r134a-and-r12-connectors-96677.html $15 After u put vacuum on system leave it for 15 minutes, check the vacuum on it again to make sure you have no leaks. You will need guages for this! Something like this http://www.harborfreight.com/a-c-manifold-gauge-set-92649.html Only use one of the 12-14oz cans to recharge your system, I like the ones that include lubrication for the system as well. You recharge by connecting the can via a tap to low pressure connection, the one behind intercooler, with something like this http://www.gpartsinc.com/p-3895-one-r134a-u-charge-hose-ac-refrigerant-hose-fjc-6035.aspx?catargetid=1816008475&cagpspn=pla&gclid=CIGJ18_W3rcCFYed4Aod9n8AVw and your done. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aziankingz Posted June 12, 2013 Share Posted June 12, 2013 Sweet, thanks man. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwiener2 Posted June 12, 2013 Share Posted June 12, 2013 Using vacuum to check for leaks is not proper. If you have a full vacuum (which you can't) then you have at most 14.7 psi of pressure to test with. The proper way to test is with nitrogen at 100+ psi. A/C systems are typically not user serviceable. Just because you can put the pieces back together doesn't mean you can handle the refrigerant side. My Mods List (Updated 8/22/17) 2005 Outback FMT Running on Electrons Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted June 12, 2013 Share Posted June 12, 2013 It works for me, and I have replaced 3 condensers so far, rocks like to crack my condenser.. but its your choice, I paid 15 bucks for vacuum pump, 80 for condenser, 15 for can of r134a, 15 for a tap, and 40 for a gauge total of 165 and you are ready to do this to pretty much any car now, I have already recharged a bunch of systems for friends and the tip/booze money paid for the equipment already. You can go to some certified hvac specialist, and I bet he does the same thing I just described. My buddy is hvac certified and he doesnt find all that necessary, only if your looking for a leak, but if your condenser is cracked, you likely found the leak. Maybe for your home hvac, nitrogen testing is a must, but a small system like this one all you need to do is put it under vacuum, leave it for 30 minutes and if its still the same its safe to assume you dont have a leak. a/c systems arent really that complicated.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwiener2 Posted June 13, 2013 Share Posted June 13, 2013 no, they're not. But I know for a fact your A/C isn't charged properly... but you'd never know if you're going through them that fast. My Mods List (Updated 8/22/17) 2005 Outback FMT Running on Electrons Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted June 13, 2013 Share Posted June 13, 2013 whatever floats your boat. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
petty144 Posted August 27, 2014 Share Posted August 27, 2014 Yeah. That's a whole lot of I don't know what I'm doing. You need to put a high vacuum on the system, essentially removing all air and moisture from inside the lines, BEFORE you can add refrigerant. If you don't do this, acid will form inside the lines and slowly eat away at everything. A/C systems are generally not user serviceable. The fact the anyone can buy a can of R134a at the auto parts store is a major loophole in the system. Dude...... chillax for a minute. Is this not a DIY help forum? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted August 28, 2014 Share Posted August 28, 2014 My AC's still working! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin622 Posted August 29, 2014 Share Posted August 29, 2014 When i changed mine i vacuumed down my system. Added the oil and recharged.. Never had a problem Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
covertrussian Posted August 29, 2014 Share Posted August 29, 2014 You will usually find more leaks when you vacuum the system then when you pressurize it. Generally speaking if it holds -29 inHg for 10 minutes your good to go. Heck I've done systems where it had a slow leak at vacuum but once charged would work fine. 05 LGT 16G 14psi 290whp/30mpg (SOLD) 12 OBP Stock 130whp/27mpg@87 Oct 00 G20t GT28r 10psi 250whp/36mpg 22 Ascent STOCK Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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