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a/c condenser install


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Can anyone tell me if the a/c condenser can be replaced without draining and fully removing radiator? Or is there just not enough room? I need to change it out this weekend but there is snow in the forecast so im trying not to do it the hard/long way, unless its better to.

 

Its funny how installing a $50 trans cooler set up could turn into a $175 a/c condenser replacement if you forget the the said condenser is right behind the support your drilling for a second mounting hole for your trans cooler.

:):eek::mad: these are the 3 emotions i felt all in a matter of 3 seconds

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  • 1 year later...
  • 1 month later...
My system was completely empty... I recharged it myself with refrigerant from the parts store. The condenser is super easy to do, it took me about an hour and one busted knuckle... Wish I would have made a walk through to post!
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Vacuum?

 

After I had everything back together, I attached the can of refrigerant (with the gauge) to the low side a/c port near the turbo and recharged the system until it was at the appropriate PSI according to the instructions on the can.

 

You do have to be cautious to not recharge the high side a/c port and to not overcharge the system. Luckily, I hear that the low and high side ports are different sizes so the refrigerant cans will only fit the correct port.

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Yeah. That's a whole lot of I don't know what I'm doing.

 

 

You need to put a high vacuum on the system, essentially removing all air and moisture from inside the lines, BEFORE you can add refrigerant. If you don't do this, acid will form inside the lines and slowly eat away at everything.

 

 

A/C systems are generally not user serviceable. The fact the anyone can buy a can of R134a at the auto parts store is a major loophole in the system.

(Updated 8/22/17)

2005 Outback FMT

Running on Electrons

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I was just asking about the a/c condenser install. Seems simple enough to change yourself. I just need a general idea on how to do install it. I already have a shop lined up to do the evacuation and refrigerant, plus o-rings for about $100.
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Its very easy to change condenser. If your system was already empty then all you do is :

 

Remove front grill, 2 popits and 2 bolts

remove the 2 fans along with the small coolant tube and hoses that connect to reservoir, top of tank and turbo reservoir , 4 bolts

remove the radiator brackets on top and the little bracket in middle that holds the thing for holding hood open, 3 bolts

remove top hose from compressor side, the one that goes to top connection on condenser, and remove the bottom hose from the condenser.

Then remove the 2 bolts in front that bolt the condenser to the car.

 

At this point you lean the radiator forward and wiggle out the condenser, take of the top hose from old condenser and swap it to new one.

 

After you change everything do not charge system until you either hook up a hvac evac pump or a vacuum pump something like

 

http://www.harborfreight.com/25-cfm-vacuum-pump-98076.html $90

or if you have an air tank

http://www.harborfreight.com/air-vacuum-pump-with-r134a-and-r12-connectors-96677.html $15

 

 

After u put vacuum on system leave it for 15 minutes, check the vacuum on it again to make sure you have no leaks. You will need guages for this! Something like this

 

http://www.harborfreight.com/a-c-manifold-gauge-set-92649.html

 

 

Only use one of the 12-14oz cans to recharge your system, I like the ones that include lubrication for the system as well. You recharge by connecting the can via a tap to low pressure connection, the one behind intercooler, with something like this

 

http://www.gpartsinc.com/p-3895-one-r134a-u-charge-hose-ac-refrigerant-hose-fjc-6035.aspx?catargetid=1816008475&cagpspn=pla&gclid=CIGJ18_W3rcCFYed4Aod9n8AVw

 

and your done.

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Using vacuum to check for leaks is not proper. If you have a full vacuum (which you can't) then you have at most 14.7 psi of pressure to test with.

 

The proper way to test is with nitrogen at 100+ psi.

 

 

A/C systems are typically not user serviceable. Just because you can put the pieces back together doesn't mean you can handle the refrigerant side.

(Updated 8/22/17)

2005 Outback FMT

Running on Electrons

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It works for me, and I have replaced 3 condensers so far, rocks like to crack my condenser.. but its your choice, I paid 15 bucks for vacuum pump, 80 for condenser, 15 for can of r134a, 15 for a tap, and 40 for a gauge total of 165 and you are ready to do this to pretty much any car now, I have already recharged a bunch of systems for friends and the tip/booze money paid for the equipment already. You can go to some certified hvac specialist, and I bet he does the same thing I just described. My buddy is hvac certified and he doesnt find all that necessary, only if your looking for a leak, but if your condenser is cracked, you likely found the leak. Maybe for your home hvac, nitrogen testing is a must, but a small system like this one all you need to do is put it under vacuum, leave it for 30 minutes and if its still the same its safe to assume you dont have a leak.

 

a/c systems arent really that complicated....

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  • 1 year later...
Yeah. That's a whole lot of I don't know what I'm doing.

 

 

You need to put a high vacuum on the system, essentially removing all air and moisture from inside the lines, BEFORE you can add refrigerant. If you don't do this, acid will form inside the lines and slowly eat away at everything.

 

 

A/C systems are generally not user serviceable. The fact the anyone can buy a can of R134a at the auto parts store is a major loophole in the system.

 

Dude...... chillax for a minute. Is this not a DIY help forum?

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You will usually find more leaks when you vacuum the system then when you pressurize it. Generally speaking if it holds -29 inHg for 10 minutes your good to go. Heck I've done systems where it had a slow leak at vacuum but once charged would work fine.

05 LGT 16G 14psi 290whp/30mpg (SOLD)

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00 G20t GT28r 10psi 250whp/36mpg

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