Engine died. Help?

Engine died last night. 06 Spec B, about 112k miles. Timing belt/water pump/ clutch/etc done at 90k

 

Short version, driving straight, getting up to speed, figure about 3k rpms in 3rd gear, moderate acceleration. Out of nowhere the engine dies, I dropped into neutral and managed to coast into a parking lot. (power steering died too)

 

Checked all fluids, everything is full and good, engine turns over but wont start. Fuel pump still primes when i turn the ignition to on, battery is fine, and the spark plugs only have about 8k miles on them..

 

Any ideas on what the problem could be?

Check your grounds?

 

Do you know how to pull the codes?

 

Let me be the first to officially welcome you to owning a turbo Subaru.

I've got an accessport (cobb stage 1) and it's saying that there are no codes.. gonna check the grounds and the maf sensor later tonight.

MAF will throw a code, but, the grounds will not.

 

Also, check for vac leaks. Commonly, when you're driving along and then it quits suddenly, it's more often than not, a vacuum hose come undone. Don't freak out just yet.

 

There's no such thing as Subaru Instant Death Syndrome.

Also check all the fuses and relays.

fuses are good, checked those first thing. whats the easiest way to check the grounds?

There's 2 grounds on the bottom of the motor, 1 on each side. They are connected to the valve cover to the frame of the car. If they are still intact, clean them up by sanding the bolt hole area connecting to the frame.

Best way to test grounds is to add a good big one see if anything changes. Could be the crank sensor.

 

If it sounds normal while cranking then I'd go right to the crank sensor.

Pull a coil pack see if you have spark.

 

Engine only needs 3 things. Fuel spark and compression.

 

Fuel pump primes check

If it sound normal cranking. Compression check.

Only spark left..

 

Unless you have a massive vacuum leak but you would have thrown a lean code.

Maybe timing belt jumped... did you test alternator? It dying randomly and no cels is what's strange to me.

 

Actually probably not alternator... your battery would be dead.

Yup, check your timing marks to make sure all the marks align up.

Got a chance to actually poke around today, put in diagnostic mode by plugging together the green wires under the dash and plugging in my AP. Apparently it's throwing 4 codes

 

P1518 starter switch circuit - low input

P0851 neutral switch circuit - low input

I think those are coming up because of a low battery

 

P1152 02 sensor circuit range/performance low (bank 1 sensor 1)

P1153 02 sensor circuit range/performance high (bank 1 sensor 1)

 

Safe to say that that 02 sensor died and won't let the entire run?

Well fix teh battery first as that may clear the rest up. If not then pick up a Denso AFR sensor (front) and go from there. At least its not an issue with the timing work that was done.

OP, you should buy both of these:

 

(Front 02 Sensor)

 

[ame=http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001F799X6/ref=oh_details_o00_s01_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1]Amazon.com: Denso 234-9120 Oxygen Sensor (Air and Fuel Ratio Sensor): Automotive[/ame]

 

 

 

 

(Rear sensor (back of DP/Mid)

 

[ame=http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CF5ZE4/ref=oh_details_o00_s02_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1]Amazon.com: Bosch 15025 Oxygen Sensor, OE Type Fitment: Automotive[/ame]

Awesome, thanks. Getting the battery tested tomorrow, failing that I'll try the 02 sensors

An 02 won't cause the car to not start.

Sounds like alternator failure. Check output voltage.

Alternator and battery are fine. My new O2 sensor came in today, going to install it tomorrow. Did a little poking around, found a broken section of wire (assuming it's a ground wire, flat braided cable, no insulation). One end was attached to the heat shield on the passenger side exhaust, and I have no idea where the other end is. Anybody happen to know?

That is the passenger side engine ground. The other side of the cable connects to the frame of the car. Also, check the driver side as well, same setup as the passenger side.

Search for engine grounds.

 

I'll post my picture up when I get home.

 

Grounds go from the heads to the chassis. Just make up new ones, any decent size wire and ends. Its easier then it sounds.

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/engine-ground-locations-116762.html?t=116762&highlight=grounds

New O2 sensor dropped in, made a new ground wire. Got it to start for a few seconds with starting fluid, idled pretty rough for about 5 Seconds, then died, no throttle response. I'm gonna go with bad fuel pump at this point.

 

Anyone have recommendations for a new pump? I'm thinking this one

 

http://www.subimods.com/deatschwerks-dw65c-fuel-pump-w-install-kit-2008-2014-wrx-2008-2014-sti-2005-2009-lgt-by-deatschwerks-for-149-00.html

It might be worth testing your fuel pressure first, before replacing the pump.

 

You stated the alternator and battery are fine, but how did you test the alternator if the car won't run?

Alternator should be fine, got replaced at 90k, and got the battery tested at a napa down the road.

 

Any easy way to check fuel pressure?

Is the new alternator OEM, or did you get a unit from elsewhere? In the past I've got not oem starters / alternators from places like advance that failed in a very short interval. That said, if your battery is showing 14v, there should be enough power to start/run the car for a little bit even with a bad alternator.

 

You need a fuel pressure gauge, you can get a cheap one at harbor frieght. Connect it inline at the supply line near the FPR (near the brake booster, back in the corner.

 

When I do this, I pull the fuel pump fuse, and turn the car over a few times to release any pressure in the system, otherwise you could end up spraying fuel (assuming you have any pressure). Have some rags handy and always wear safety glasses.

Or just break a fuel line loose and see if there's pressure in there.