Head Gasket

For a couple weeks I have been smelling coolant. When I first did, I tried to see where it was leaking but I couldn't see anything... Not even dripping or steam. I kept checking the coolant level and it seemed fine. Yesterday I finally noticed steam from the coolant but still couldn't tell where it was leaking from. I brought it into a reputable Subaru shop (NOT a dealer) and they told me I had a blown head gasket. I was fearing this and am not looking forward to paying for it. Has anyone else had one replaced and what were you charged? Did yours include resurfacing the heads?

 

While they are in there I'm going to have them change my plugs, and it is possible one of my valves is bad, so I will have them replace that too. They said that sometimes when they get in there they will see issues with the turbos as well. Anyone know anything about this? And anything else I should have looked at/replaced while everything is torn apart? Sorry.. Lots of questions for one thread....

 

Thanks for your help guys!

What transmission do you have ?

 

While the engine is out should should replace the clutch kit and do a single mass fly wheel from a 07-09 GT and do the TSK3 TOB kit.

 

You should have both heads rebuilt while the engine is at the machine shop.

 

The timing belt should also be replaced.

 

You should have both banjo filters removed. That will help the turbo live longer.

 

How many miles on the car ?

 

There are a few threads like this recently around the forum, check them out.

Well. Smelling coolant doesn't really mean the gasket is bad. They sell quick headgasket testers at auto stores that you can do by taking the rad cap off and placing it in the fill port. This is a good way to test for hydrocarbons in the coolant(thus combustion gases in the coolant).

 

It's not an easy job and you'll be paying for the labor. When the gasket is replaced they should be cleaning the block surface and head surface so there's nothing but bare metal showing. You don't really need it machined as long as your car didn't literally overheat. While the heads are out, they can inspect the valves for any longer term wear or damage. Wouldn't hurt to check the valve lash too to make sure they are in spec, it only takes a couple minutes. Wouldn't hurt to request new head bolts just to be on the safe side.

 

IF there's a problem with a valve, (would usually shows up by misfires unless a really small chip) it would be wise to have the heads cleaned by a machine shop. It's not uncommon for a burnt valve to happen...replacing all the valves would be a good idea but not necessary..it's up to you and whether you plan on keeping the car a lot longer because there's a high likelihood that a valve will eventually chip. And of course after that stuff is done, valve lash check and put within spec.

 

When disassembling parts in order to get the heads off or pull the motor(easier), they'll be removing the turbo and of course inspecting it... you'll need all new gaskets too and likely a gasket kit for the car which is ~$200(headgaskets alone are almost half that price) and it includes head gaskets, valve cover gaskets, cam seals, etc... all that's needed for this job in one kit. Could be a $1000+ job.

5MT w/119k miles

 

I think they plan on rebuilding the heads... They quoted me at about $2500 without additional work (plugs, valves, etc).

 

Timing belt and water pump work was already done.. Less than a year ago! If I knew this would happen I would have done it all at once and saved some labor costs. They told me that my head gasket was fine at that point and it was less likely for this generation.

 

I searched the forums last night and this morning. I didn't find too much on what people were being charged. A lot of information on people getting them done by friends or doing it themselves. Its not something I want to tackle at this point.

it's kind of a bitch. if only we were able to remove the head bolts without taking the cams off it would save a lot of time switching gaskets...

I know smelling coolant doesn't automatically mean blown head gasket. I might not be the most knowledgdeable, but I do know the basics. He did the test right in front of me... Definitely a blown head gasket. :-(

 

I've been having some misfiring before the car is warmed, but no CEL yet. They said it would be about $14 for a valve and wouldn't add to labor since it's already apart. I figured if I'm spending so much already I might as well get it all done and not have to worry later.

They car hasn't overheated (to the red) since I have owned it... I bought it at 106k last spring. The radiator neck cracked and was leaking coolant right after the timing belt was done. I noticed my temp going up before seeing steam or smelling anything and stopped driving before the temp got into the red. Besides that it has run normal and hasn't been overheated.

At 120k it would be a hard call for me... I'd be very much inclined to either replace or upgrade the bottom end while it was out. I guess it depends on how hard its been driven and how well its been maintained... and how long you intend to keep it. If there's the additional concern of a high heat event that might push it over the top.

 

For $1,645 you can get a brand new short block from Subaru. Overhaul heads as others suggested and you'll have a zero time motor. And then you'll have a functional short block you can sell to another member looking for a carcass to upgrade. The only other thing I would add is to go to the 11mm STI oil pump while you have it exposed.

 

 

I'm also coming at this from the perspective of a DIY. Bolting on heads isn't rock science. I've not done it (yet) on a Subie but its easy on V's and 4's... maybe a two banana job for a shop monkey. The hardest part for me would be the R&R in the garage.

Unfortunately it isn't so simple. If you can get the cam sprockets off while the engine is in the car, you're home free and can do the hg job without removing the engine.

Yea.. I know I have the mental capability to do the job (I'm a mechanical engineer)... I just don't have a garage, tools or a friend with what I would need. DIY for this job is just not an option for me.

did you try using a coolant pressure tester ?

I didn't pressure test myself, but I was standing next to the guy in the shop when he tested it.

OP at that mileage while the engine is out, you should put a good clutch and SMFW in it and the TSK3 TOB kit.

 

Add $1000 for that stuff.

 

My heads were treated will over there 154,000 mile life when I had them rebuilt when I put the new short block in. I didn't need any valves. But most of these heads do.

 

The machine shop will tell you what you need to do, we're all just guessing.

Another $1000? Damn.. I'll look into it. Unfortunately I don't have $3500-$4000 laying around, but I don't want to be kicking myself in the ass again for not getting it done when it would be easier.

Yes, I understand. I had a year to plan and save up money for my short block and all the supporting pieces. With the steering rack and lower ball joint with spindle, I was close to $7000. But I replaced a lot of hoses and other items at the same time or over the next few month's.

So I went and got a 2nd opinion.... They did a compression test and couldn't find any coolant leaks or any signs that coolant had leaked out anywhere in the past.

 

The thing is... I know I'm not crazy and my bf has smelled and seen the steam/smoke come up on really cold mornings. It is coming from the passenger side near intake area. It smells sweet like coolant, but apparently that isn't what it is... Any ideas?

This is exactly what happened to me when I saw steam, What it was was the coolant line from the "turbo coolant tank" kinda above the turbo was loose. Its the actual line that feeds the turbo. I actually grabbed it and it literally sprayed out. It would drip pretty frequently when it was running. Fixed the clamp tight again and it hasnt leaked since. I would do this before ANYTHING! Free to check haha just my 2 cents.

This is exactly what happened to me when I saw steam, What it was was the coolant line from the "turbo coolant tank" kinda above the turbo was loose. Its the actual line that feeds the turbo. I actually grabbed it and it literally sprayed out. It would drip pretty frequently when it was running. Fixed the clamp tight again and it hasnt leaked since. I would do this before ANYTHING! Free to check haha just my 2 cents.

 

Yep. High heat area and they get brittle. The OEM constant tension clamps stop working at that point. Hoses are cheap and relatively easy to R&R.