electrical issues please help

Several months ago i noticed that if I did not let the car warm up first, while driving I would hear a click coming from under the dash and the car would sputter and i would lose power for just s second. I could let off the gas for a moment then the car would drive on just fine after that. This issue would go away once the car was warmed up. At that time I was getting CE code 32 so I replaced the o2 sensor in the front of the car. This however did not resolve the issue and it has progressively gotten worse. I next replaced the knock sensor because it was cracked but still had the same issue. I have since replaced alternator because you could hear the bearings were shot, and the battery which was 6 years old. I will mention that by this time the issue with the "click" from the dash, the sudden stutter or loss of power that also made the RPM's suddenly drop had worsened to the point where it would happen cold or warm and even more so under load, like climbing a hill. It happens in multiple gears and even in neutral, revving to 3500RPM's. I then replaced the fuel filter and double checked all hoses for cracks. After replacing the battery, my check engine light only comes on every once in a while and it was still showing code 32 for the 02 sensor but the CE light only comes on every once in a while. Last night I added a ground to the negative post to the frame of the car and this morning the CE light is now showing 4 codes.

23-air flow sensor

32-o2 sensor

33-speed sensor

42-idle sensor

 

I honestly don't think all of these sensors are bad but rather I am dealing with a much bigger electrical issue. I want to replace the big 3 to see if it is a simple grounding issue but any other suggestions would be great. This is the only car I have ever worked on and my car knowledge is limited so forgive me if I sound like an idiot.

I forgot to mention that I also installed a new main relay

Shit I also forgot to mention that it's a 93 legacy L 25th anniversary.

A ground problem is common, and I highly recomend the ground wire upgrade, especially if you are drawing additional power with something like an amplifier. Also, The top strut bolts are not a solid ground. Add more and see what happens. Battery to intake manifold, battery to strut tower, engine to firewall. You can use jumper cables as temporary grounding straps to quickly test this theory without spending much money.

Hello;

I would check the ignition switch and if you have cruise control look at this circuit also. I had a similar problem and turned out to be a faulty relay, Steven.

Have you replace the water temperature sensor? Have you cleaned your MAF?

I have simlar codes plus 22 and 49. I do have cone filter and an over drive pulley. Did know if anyone has experienced this.

Have you replace the water temperature sensor? Have you cleaned your MAF?

 

 

I have cleaned the MAF with brake cleaner. The water temp sensor was replaced within the last 2 years.

Hello;

I would check the ignition switch and if you have cruise control look at this circuit also. I had a similar problem and turned out to be a faulty relay, Steven.

 

My ignition switch is actually in pretty rough shape I believe. I replaced the Lock cylinder a few years back because I have to Push the key in at an angle to get it to start. The ignition switch should probably be changed, it seems almost any short or electrical failure could make the computer freak out.