LGT_King Posted April 29, 2011 Share Posted April 29, 2011 It took me awhile to find this info and solve my issue so I would just post it up here for a sort of FYI. Because if it hasn't happened it likely will. My parents have a outback XT (I flashed it to stage 1 ). Anyway they complained that the rear trunk would not lock anymore with the keyless remote. Went over pulled all the trim off and had a look at the mechanism and plugs. 2 plugs, one for seeing if its closed (dash light) and one to close/open it - both two wire. Checked and the unlock wire got power but the lock wire didn't. Low and behold in the connection (accordion boot) between the hatch and the car on the right side the wire was cut clean. Even some other wires had exposed portions as if they eventually would be severed. Connected a wire to join the lock wire and then wrapped all the wires with some exposed portions with electrical tape. And then everything with electrical tape... Some poor design maybe?? cliff note: wires being cut by the open/closing of the rear hatch inside the boot on the top right causing things to stop working. Mine was rear trunk lock, but easily could be light related. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
black_bulletgt Posted April 29, 2011 Share Posted April 29, 2011 thanks for the warning. will have to check mine out when i have some time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BAC5.2 Posted April 30, 2011 Share Posted April 30, 2011 Thanks! Since I have to run wires through there soon, ill sheath the wires to protect them. [URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/proper-flip-key-interesti-159894.html"]Flip Key Development Thread[/URL] "Genius may have its limitations, but stupidity is not thus handicapped." - E. Hubbard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ironchefireland Posted April 30, 2011 Share Posted April 30, 2011 Interesting. I've got some odd thing were the keyless will lock the doors but not the rear lift, but will set the alarm. Sometimes I forget and the alarm goes off. Really annoying. Gonna have to check those wires. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AkumaMax Posted April 30, 2011 Share Posted April 30, 2011 Thanks for the heads up I will look into this and maybe add some pictures to what you are talking about. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jagcars26 Posted April 30, 2011 Share Posted April 30, 2011 Thanks fr the heads up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted May 1, 2011 Share Posted May 1, 2011 Mine is different. sometimes, it won't unlock. We went in from the back seat. popped the panel off and moved the lever down with a light push and it unlocks. It did this the first time last Fall, but after driving the car to my buddies body shop, the thing unlocked and worked like there was no problem. Yesterday while the car was up on jackstands, the hatch wouldn't unlock. Will trouble shoot more during the next week or so. Tranny's out being rebuilt, but that's a different thread. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted March 26, 2012 Share Posted March 26, 2012 Open the hatch and pull the rubber cover back on the wires in the right upper corner, you may find broken wires there. My buddy's body shop repaired four or five broken wires there on mine for $120.00 much cheaper then the $3-400 estimate I got from the dealer. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frank_ster Posted March 26, 2012 Share Posted March 26, 2012 ah thats whats wrong with mine ! mine was blowing the fuse for locks .. now just the hatch lock doesn't work anymore .. Now that's thinking out of the boxer! fyi all 05 + legacy's have built in code reader Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nwsurfwakeskate Posted March 26, 2012 Share Posted March 26, 2012 05 RBP wagon 122k miles. 3rd brake light quite working about a month ago and my rear dome light only turns on when I first open the hatch but then goes out after the hatch is more then 2 inches open. Any ideas where to start? I pulled the rubber boots back on the wires running through the hinges and they looked fine from what I could tell. Have yet to open up the trim yet. Pics or a how-to would certainly be nice! Thanks, CJ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OutbackXT05 Posted March 27, 2012 Share Posted March 27, 2012 Mine is wierd. When i bought the car it had an aftermarket alarm in it. It works on all doors and the hatch. But the oem subaru one i bought after onlu opens/closes the door. Trunk does not work. And also my rear latch sensor is tripping out. It keeps flashing on and off on my cluster and its really annoying. Anyone know how to fix that? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mbcracken Posted March 27, 2012 Share Posted March 27, 2012 Wires breaking in the rubber wire cover between rear hatch and body have caused me many headaches... It first started with my rear wiper intermitten not working properly. I first replaced the wiper motor which I did myself. Did not fix it... I replaced the wiper switch on the steering column. Did not fix it... Dealership fixed it by replacing wires for $100 (mostly labor as I didn't want to mess with removing headliner). A couple weeks go by, the wires go out for the radio antenna...ugh. Got it fixed too at dealership. Subaru really went cheap on these wires and have caused all sorts of headaches. Well documented over on the Outback forums. My recommendation would be to replace all the wires at once when you have everything opened up. Good luck... Cheers, Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leonardo Posted April 1, 2012 Share Posted April 1, 2012 (edited) I would do what Mike did. I would take all issus related to this issue to the dealer so all this gets documented and probably SOA will release a service bulletin or recall as it will affect mostly all of the wagon & outbacks out there. If the dealer charged you and a recall is issued, you get refunded the money for those repairs done at the desler. Edited April 1, 2012 by Leonardo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nwsurfwakeskate Posted April 20, 2012 Share Posted April 20, 2012 Well I finally dove into this to try and fix my 3rd brake light and rear dome light issues. ended up cutting the boot in the middle so that I could fold it over its self. Without doing this I couldn't get enough wire exposed to add some butt splices in. Sure enough there was 2 wires broken and about half a dozen that were cut through the insulation. I repaired the wires that were broken and wrapped everything up in Rescue Tape (silicone tape). Both the 3rd brake light and rear dome light work the way they are supposed to now. I tried opening up the headliner a little bit to see if this was an easy wiring harness to replace. The shit looks like it runs everywhere and its electrical taped into every other wire harness that comes near it both in the tailgate and in the headliner! WTF subaru!!!! I'm debating cutting the whole thing and rewiring each connection eventually but for now my bandaid repair should hold for awhile. Thank God the brake lights aren't in the tailgate. that could be a serious problem! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frank_ster Posted April 23, 2012 Share Posted April 23, 2012 yep 3 wires sawed right through others insulation is cut. so will put 3 peices of wires in and protect the rest with some conduit if i can shove itin there Now that's thinking out of the boxer! fyi all 05 + legacy's have built in code reader Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frank_ster Posted April 23, 2012 Share Posted April 23, 2012 Well I finally dove into this to try and fix my 3rd brake light and rear dome light issues. ended up cutting the boot in the middle so that I could fold it over its self. Without doing this I couldn't get enough wire exposed to add some butt splices in. Sure enough there was 2 wires broken and about half a dozen that were cut through the insulation. I repaired the wires that were broken and wrapped everything up in Rescue Tape (silicone tape). Both the 3rd brake light and rear dome light work the way they are supposed to now. I tried opening up the headliner a little bit to see if this was an easy wiring harness to replace. The shit looks like it runs everywhere and its electrical taped into every other wire harness that comes near it both in the tailgate and in the headliner! WTF subaru!!!! I'm debating cutting the whole thing and rewiring each connection eventually but for now my bandaid repair should hold for awhile. Thank God the brake lights aren't in the tailgate. that could be a serious problem! yes the harness is easily changeable about 30 min job. the wires go over to the rear dome light 1 ground screw near the rear dome light. then the wires gow down right behind the right brake light and there are 3 plugs un plug those and pull the wire up so you can access the dammaged areas with out cutting the acordian boot. the rear hatch cover comes ovver easy with only 2 screws and 6 pop thingys . i'll take a few pics . Now that's thinking out of the boxer! fyi all 05 + legacy's have built in code reader Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BoostWagon Posted April 28, 2012 Share Posted April 28, 2012 (edited) yes the harness is easily changeable about 30 min job. the wires go over to the rear dome light 1 ground screw near the rear dome light. then the wires gow down right behind the right brake light and there are 3 plugs un plug those and pull the wire up so you can access the dammaged areas with out cutting the acordian boot. the rear hatch cover comes ovver easy with only 2 screws and 6 pop thingys . i'll take a few pics . Very interested in your pics for this, I fixed my hatch lock and license lights by splicing 3 wires - at least 3 more look to be headed for failure. Saw one harness connection above the right rear taillight on the pillar, but it didn't look like it went into the hatch, and it only appeared to have two wires. There was another bundle of cables in some kind of sheath, but no harness connections accessible via the upper trim panel on the column. If I take off the lower panel, will I find more connectors for this harness? Update: Wiring harness is $243(!) at local dealer, roughly $183 at Fred Beans. Both too pricey, sounds like time for a You-Do-It Electronics trip. Edited May 1, 2012 by BoostWagon Learned more info Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fat Charlie Posted April 30, 2012 Share Posted April 30, 2012 My dome light and backup lights were gone. The shop spliced and wrapped, everybody's happy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazygory Posted May 2, 2012 Share Posted May 2, 2012 Mine wouldnt lock....only because the handle kept sticking....I had to have the handle replaced. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frank_ster Posted May 2, 2012 Share Posted May 2, 2012 I oiled my handle and it works nice now .. but yes the lower pannel behinge the right rear taillight there are 3 conenctors for that harness Now that's thinking out of the boxer! fyi all 05 + legacy's have built in code reader Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fat Charlie Posted May 2, 2012 Share Posted May 2, 2012 I just got in the habit of flicking the handle back while lifting the hatch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
big ears Posted September 3, 2012 Share Posted September 3, 2012 I also have a 2005 Legacy wagon and the rear hatch will not lock. On inspection I found the wires within the rear rubber accordion boot had torn themselves apart on the passenger side . WTF I have filed a complaint with /www.nhtsa.gov (NHTSA) and suggest others do the same. When the wires tear you also lose your high mount 3rd brake light in addition to not being able to lock and secure the rear hatch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frank_ster Posted September 4, 2012 Share Posted September 4, 2012 ^ well i'm sure subaru knows about it i dunno if it has to go that far. its not like we are supposed to use these cars anywys. Now that's thinking out of the boxer! fyi all 05 + legacy's have built in code reader Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BoozeRS05 Posted September 4, 2012 Share Posted September 4, 2012 Keeping an eye out for this.. EB's Subaru journal - 2005 LegacyGT Wagon & 2014 Forester FB25 (2008 specB - RIP) IG@legacygtliving Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
big ears Posted September 6, 2012 Share Posted September 6, 2012 Slipped two lengths of wire down through the rubber accordion boot (taped them to a flexible yet stiff picture rail wire and pushed them through) and using butt connectors crimped the 2 individual new wires to bridge the broken wires. To sum up 4 butt connectors and about a foot of replacement wire and my two broken wires are now joined. There is no need to cut the accordion boot. Now my rear lift gate locks remotely and my high mount brake light works. Radio Shack can be a convenient source for butt connectors and light gauge wire. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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