Where to begin with modifications to your Legacy GT

The HID upgrade bit of this post should be updated...HID upgrade kits are 1/10th of the cost now in 2010 than they were when this thread was started.

 

Here's an example:

http://www.ddmtuning.com/Products/Apexcone-Raptor-HID-Kit

 

I don't have these on my as-yet unbought LGT, but my bud's got them on his Mazdaspeed3 and they are a major improvement over stock projectors.

i love power. is my best bet just buying the cobb ap v2 or should i get something else. n wat is this infamous tune thing? (nooby question lmao)

I am new to the subbie world and I have always driven audi's in the past but now I have a 05 LGT with a 5 speed. and I need to replace the turbo. The old turbo is bad and the car has 99,000 miles on it. I am looking at replacing it with a direct bolt on unit and want to know what is the best unit to replace it with? I would like to replace it with something that would provide great driveability but also maybe be able to handle some more power than stock for future upgrades. Any suggestions. My only requirement is that it be a direct bolt on application.

 

 

Could always send the turbo into BNR. They use the vf40 and upgrade it's internals. Something to consider.

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/bolt-up-turbocharger-upgrade-119177.html?t=119177&highlight=BNR

hey broudl73. I'm going to get my AP either this friday or mid next week. Infamous1 is a member that has a cult following when it comes to tuning. I'm going to get with him to get my car tuned. What mods do you have, or have planned to get? Whatever you do, don't get an Intake. I have a K&N Typhoon and other than the wonderful turbo sounds, its worse than stock. I'm probably going to end up putting the stock airbox back in until I get my full exhaust set up. Then I'll just put the K&N back in for the tune. Most will say to go Opensource because it's alot cheaper, and I've considered it, but the AP is a better fit for me due to the ease of operation. I've been setting money aside for one anyways and it's easy to revert back to stock(not that Opensource isn't). From what have heard, the AP is a great start.

oo nice bushmaster. i actually found out that my warrenty isnt gonna be up for a while but im gonna get that gimmick turbo back system bc that is a steal and im just gonna get my bro an ipad lol. but for now i wanted to get the cobb ap v2 so i can get a lil more hp and torque then set it back to factory settings wen i go back to the dealership.

few noobish questions tho

 

can the dealership tell i use the cobb ap if i set it back to normal?

how much more hp can i get wit just a stock system?

(really NOOB question lol) Does the cobb ap make the turbo sound louder or bov sound or bpv sound louder?

oo nice bushmaster. i actually found out that my warrenty isnt gonna be up for a while but im gonna get that gimmick turbo back system bc that is a steal and im just gonna get my bro an ipad lol. but for now i wanted to get the cobb ap v2 so i can get a lil more hp and torque then set it back to factory settings wen i go back to the dealership.

few noobish questions tho

 

can the dealership tell i use the cobb ap if i set it back to normal?

how much more hp can i get wit just a stock system?

(really NOOB question lol) Does the cobb ap make the turbo sound louder or bov sound or bpv sound louder?

 

http://www.cobbtuning.com/products/?id=4493

 

Typical Performance Gains

 

Stage 1: +4.0% HP and +9.0% TQ

(see modification requirements)

 

Stage 2: +6.0% HP and +22.0% TQ

(see modification requirements)

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/tell-if-your-ecu-has-been-modded-flashedi-new-lgt-145047.html?t=145047&highlight=subaru+ecu+flashed

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/early-engine-failure-08-2-5ti-129284p2.html post #64 and on... search man, search...

Edited October 22, 2010 by SSpeed

oo nice bushmaster. i actually found out that my warrenty isnt gonna be up for a while but im gonna get that gimmick turbo back system bc that is a steal and im just gonna get my bro an ipad lol. but for now i wanted to get the cobb ap v2 so i can get a lil more hp and torque then set it back to factory settings wen i go back to the dealership.

few noobish questions tho

 

can the dealership tell i use the cobb ap if i set it back to normal?

how much more hp can i get wit just a stock system?

(really NOOB question lol) Does the cobb ap make the turbo sound louder or bov sound or bpv sound louder?

 

broudl73, so I picked up my AP Thursday and installed it last night. MMMAAANNN!!!!! I'll say what soo many before me have said...THIS IS HOW THE CAR SHOULD HAVE LEFT THE FACTORY. Instant throttle response, actually puts you back into the seat in 2nd gear kinda like stock 1st gear would. I can't help but play with the different screens in terms of Live Data feeds. You can log(which I need to learn the proper way, if anyone is willing to fill me in) or just look at the realtime stats for just about everything. My MPG even went up by about 3-4mpg. Ok, so to answer your important questions. You can flash back to a stock map, not suggested if you have a custom tune for a full TBE. The dealer can't tell that you have an AP unless they need to do something with the ECU. I wouldn't worry too much about the waranty being affected by the accessport though. Secondly, sad to say, but the AP increases the performance and not the sound of the turbo or BPV. I had a K&N typhoon on the car which sounded amazing, but I knew that it was bad for the engine without a tune. Once my girlfriend gets my TBE, then I'll put the Typhoon back on and get in touch with INFAMOUS1. Friendly advice, and please learn from my mistakes....DON'T WASTE MONEY ON A BPV OR INTAKE JUST TO GET THE TURBO SOUND!!!!! Get the performance mods, THEN throw on the intake (even though it's not needed) Intakes are easy to find second hand on here. What year is your LGT again? All in all, I'd definitely recommend the AP. Yes it costs ALOT more money than going Opensource, but for me, I have an 8 month old and work 10 hrs a day so time is not readily avail to log and tune through OS. Matter of fact, I need to run to the store before they stop selling beer. *Note that you will find every excuse to drive your car* On a side note...I'm still waiting to hear from more than just one person that has run a drop-in panel filter while on Cobb's OTS stage 1 map. I don't know how to look at MAF readings and AFR to determine if I'm running too lean. That's where the live data during everyday driving will come into play.

 

Cliffnotes version: Buy the AP already and try to keep from smiling.

 

-Jason

haha sounds good bushman33. I got a 2008 legacy gt limited and i literally cant wait to get this accessport. Especially since its gonna give me more mpgs but i just wanna make sure the dealer cant tell so it voids my warranty

I have an 05 XT with a catless uppipe and downpipe and Cobb map. My wife wants to remove the catless downpipe and return to the stock catted downpipe. Will one of the Cobb maps work with the catless uppipe and stock turboback setup? I tried this setup without the AP and using the resistor fix, but it didn't work 9kept throwing the CEL). I'm thinking one of the Cobb stage maps will allow me to run the above scenario (catless UP and stock back) but i'm not sure. Help?

Just bought my '05 Gt LTD yesterday and this is a great thread for starting. Thanks

Useful information. THANKS

cant wait to start tuning mine

Useful info , but once you all get started.... good luck on stopping. My car was going to be a chill DD and now look at it. The bug got me good!

 

Overall , id say the first thing the legacy needs is better brakes. id advise anyone do that first.

One tip from one noob to others: if you want your legacy to continue to be a comfortable daily driver, stick with the dual mass flywheel as long as possible. If you do upgrade, look into a wrx single mass, and match your clutch to your planned torque output. Your left leg will thank me, as well as your drivetrain. Awd + power= lots of stress on the diffs, tranny, etc.. having an hd clutch means the clutch won't slip to dissipate the energy. Couple that with aftermarket bushings all the way around, and you have a recipe for a noisy machine that I'd difficult to drive.

 

That being said, with a stage 1 tune and all of the above, that noisy machine is a monster. I'm holding 15.5psi, and I've driven about 2000 miles in the last few weeks..

 

I'll live with the chatter, decel noise, and all around nvh. I've never had more fun in a car in my life! :-)

Do we have a common-sense / reliability mods section?

 

If I'm about to buy an LGT, do I want to automatically install the Killer B oil pump pickup and the Infamous turbo oil supply kit?

 

I want this thing to live forever...

Edited March 5, 2013 by evil03mustang

Do we have a common-sense / reliability mods section?

 

If I'm about to buy an LGT, do I want to automatically install the Killer B oil pump pickup and the Infamous turbo oil supply kit?

 

I want this thing to live forever...

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/reliability-modifications-178342.html?t=178342&highlight=reliability

Hey thank you for the tutorial, this works for me but it only sticks until I turn the car on and off again, then it comes back maybe because it is really cold outside though LX thanks anyways!!

With power mods braking and suspension is obvious... but which clutch/flywheel setup to run isn't. Is there a reference/sticky elsewhere?

 

Thanks

With power mods braking and suspension is obvious... but which clutch/flywheel setup to run isn't. Is there a reference/sticky elsewhere?

 

Thanks

 

Clutch flywheel seems to be a huge matter of personal taste. South Bend clutches have been gaining popularity on this forum lately and everyone seems to have good feedback on them.

 

I am running a Southbend stage 2 daily on a Stage 2 VF52 set-up and it holds the power well and is easy to drive in stop and go traffic. Occasionally it shudders when I engage it though.

I like Spec clutches, have had great performance out of them over the years.

 

I'm getting ready to replace the clutch in my 09 Spec B. Was planning on going with a Spec 2+. but all this talk of Southbend has got me thinking...

 

There is also a "review" thread here somewhere. Check the Blur Bar up top of every page.

 

Also want to add, this is the first time I have ever come to this thread...in all these years.

If you decided to run Stock Calipers on your ride (which I feel are inadequate) you may want to upgrade to the following:

 

G-Stop Braided lines.

Slotted Rotors from AP or other manufactures that produce a similar sized rotor as your stock ones. Helps ventilate better and reduces warping / weight. Please note - Not all after-market cross drilled rotors are indeed better then your stock ones so you want to pay a little more, and do some more research with the top brands. Ask questions.

Hawk Performance Pads ==> good for the moderate street racer and daily driver. Make sure NOT to Run Race Pads on your daily driver - they take a long time to heat up and they will wear out your rotors faster and poor output in the cold. (not safe)

Use a Premium fluid as well ==>any of the ones suggested in the above threads are good.

 

I've run various different pads over the years, Hawks, Porterfield R4-S, EBC Ultimax, Greenstuff and Yellowstuff. Pads make a big difference in feeling like the stock rotors are inadequate.

 

I didn't realize how bad Hawk pads are. I had the entry level EBC Ultimaxs on one car and Hawks on another, everytime I got in to the Hawk-equipped car I felt terrified that they weren't going to stop. I never noticed that until I ran two different pads on two different cars.

 

If you want brake pads that don't need to be heated up, but will put your face through the windshield when needed, go with some EBC Yellowstuffs. Sure, they dust a bit, but they stop with awesome power.

 

Never activate your parking brake after you have driven your car hard for a period of time - You will apply force to one section of the stock rotors which will hold the pads clamped down, and the heat will stay in that area where pressure is being applied longer. End result, you will eventually warp your rotors and possibly have more vibration, and or fade under all driving conditions. The vibrations from warped/cracked rotors can be so bad that you may weaken the suspension from all of the vibration (ie. ball joints, tie rod ends etc). Trust me i've gone through it..

 

Isn't our parking brake a drum system inside the hub and not the rotor and pads themselves? How would that apply with a drum brake system like ours?

 

http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k62/dil222/brake.jpg

Clutch flywheel seems to be a huge matter of personal taste. South Bend clutches have been gaining popularity on this forum lately and everyone seems to have good feedback on them.

 

I am running a Southbend stage 2 daily on a Stage 2 VF52 set-up and it holds the power well and is easy to drive in stop and go traffic. Occasionally it shudders when I engage it though.

 

I have a Southbend as well, Stage 3 Daily, it's been beautiful, holds power well and easy to drive around town, it shudders from time to time on engagement. It's taken quite a few drag strip launches with no complaints.

 

I had a Southbend Stage 2 Endurance at one time. The Endurance has (or at least it did) metal linings in the friction disc material. On repeated launches (such as hot-lapping at the drag strip) you can actually weld the friction disc to the flywheel which will cause you to not be able to disengage the clutch. Ask if the one you are looking at has metal linings and don't get that one.