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Slave Cylinder/Clutch Fork ?????


FJuan

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Just finishing replacing my clutch and TOB. After reinstalling the clutch slave cylinder to the engine, I notice the pin that comes out of the slave cylinder to the clutch fork has constant pressure on it. Not a lot of pressure to disengage the clutch, but enough pressure to press the TOB up to the pressure plate. This could be why I keep wearing out TOBs every 40k miles.

 

From my past experiences with clutches, the TOB should retract back on to the snout and not contact the pressure plate until engaged.

 

The question: Is this normal, with our cars, for the clutch slave cylinder to have constant pressure on the clutch fork?

My wife's balls are delicious.
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Give it a couple months and you'll probably get the dreaded "crickets" sound caused by the TOB not being released fully and the release fork vibrating on the pivot ball.

 

This is fixed/prevented by installing a return spring. There's a few threads on this already. The return spring pulleds the fork/tob off the clutch.

 

I tried to flush the clutch fluid thinking air in the lines was causing a mushy pedal/slight pressure on the fork. Couldn't hurt, but ut didn't stop the noise.

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  • 2 years later...
Any resolution to this problem? I'm having the exact same issue.

 

One post above yours, some really smart guy said:

 

This is fixed/prevented by installing a return spring. There's a few threads on this already. The return spring pulled the fork/tob off the clutch.
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One post above yours, some really smart guy said:

 

Yep.. I honestly don't know how I missed that.. Must have been tired.:lol:

 

I actually installed a return spring after installing the TSK3 kit and there was no happy medium where the spring was stiff enough to return the clutch fork, but soft enough not to impede the actuation. The first spring I used barely relieved pressure on the TOB, but when I pressed the clutch pedal it stuck to the floor. If I pulled the spring, the clutch pedal felt fine. As soon as I threw it on, the pedal stuck to the floor. The strangest part was that I AM actually pulling the clutch fork the right direction, so if anything it should be HARDER to press the pedal, not easier. Weird. So I installed a lighter spring and the pedal felt fine, but the TOB was still being forced on the PP.

 

I bled the line multiple times, and ended up buying a new CSC, thinking the stronger return spring was causing the worn CSC to bind. I installed it this past Wednesday, but it hasn't entirely fixed the issue. Then again, I've got multiple issues, including a possible pilot bearing failure, or clutch PP failure, so its difficult to diagnose so many at the same time. I've been a little preoccupied with the bigger issue.

 

I'm pulling the transmission again next weekend(thanks again for your DIY video; I would have been lost without it).

 

Here's my plan of attack:

-Pull clutch PP and LWFW off engine and inspect PP, clutch disk

-Install new flywheel and pilot bearing

-reassemble, less intercooler

-Bleed CSC, check for play

-Test different return springs again

-Hope for the best..

 

Any other suggestions?

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