2006 Legacy Rear Door Speaker Installation DIY

This is by no means a 100% all inclusive installation manual, but it should guide someone trying to do this for themselves. I had to do some mods and fabrication, so if this is scary, stop reading

 

 

 

REAR DOOR INSTALLATION

 

Here’s the car before speaker surgery. The rear doors first:

 

http://img408.imageshack.us/img408/6138/10058505gp9.jpg

 

 

These are the speakers. For me, Polk makes some of the best speakers for the money. They were bought at Crutchfield.com and cost me $199 for the db6501 series for the front, then db651's ($49, as they were 1/2 price) for the rear. I chose the coax speakers because I did not want to drill a hole in the door for a component tweeter:

 

http://img218.imageshack.us/img218/1367/44664445oi5.jpg

 

 

These are some of the tools (I would grab more, because I did not know what to expect). Anyway, the foam on the left is old packing foam. I used a few chunks inside the door to absorb some sound. The Metra mounts that Crutchfield sent are next to the foam. Of course they do not work, but more on that later:

 

http://img218.imageshack.us/img218/7207/98794256ci2.jpg

 

 

The first step is to remove this plate. There’s a slot for a screwdriver on the top. I suggest putting some tape over it so you do not ruin the plastic. Just a pry up and it will snap out.

 

http://img89.imageshack.us/img89/5715/23055186le2.jpg

 

 

Here’s one of three screws that secure the door:

 

http://img89.imageshack.us/img89/222/19679658uj9.jpg

 

 

 

The instructions from Crutchfield say to pry this piece off, exposing two screws. Well, you really can’t pry this off like this picture shows.

 

http://img146.imageshack.us/img146/7114/11795888gy1.jpg

 

 

 

To get this piece off, you need to use a covered screwdriver and pry a little on the top. This will expose a tab on the top right of the handle cover. Once exposed, then pry forward and it will come off. Not really easy, but it does pop out:

 

http://img90.imageshack.us/img90/4931/19952848ot3.jpg

 

 

 

In this shot, you can see the screw at the bottom of the door handle. There’s one hidden underneath that I am pointing to, along with the screw by the door handle.

 

http://img90.imageshack.us/img90/2792/69981610va3.jpg

 

 

 

I didn’t have a fancy pry tool, so I used my brain and got a golf divot repair tool out of my golf bag. As long as it’s plastic, it will work. Do not use metal, as you’ll chip the paint. Just go around the outer edge. Once an area pops, you can put your fingers behind it and pull around the edges.

 

http://img90.imageshack.us/img90/6426/48849200wt4.jpg

 

 

This is not a good picture, so forgive me. The cables for the door lock and handle are here, underneath a door. You have to lift it off (this shows it open). Just pull the cables up at the grommet attaching it (on the right). Once you do that, the cable comes off after pulling it a little to the left and lifting it out of the carrier (it is a ball end, sitting in a recess on the lock and handle).

 

http://img81.imageshack.us/img81/6484/43156420wq5.jpg

 

 

Here’s the power door lock wire connector. Just wiggle it up and out. Once that’s done, just lift the door panel up and out. Be sure you set it somewhere that will not get it scratched up.

 

http://img81.imageshack.us/img81/2145/70599306zi6.jpg

 

 

Here’s the factory speaker; quite pathetic if you ask me. The thing weighs about 5 ounces, and I wouldn’t give this thing to anyone. Note the three hole locations. There’s a cardboard surround that lets the speaker touch the door panel. I thought I would need it. You’re better off not trying to pry it off, as you’ll destroy the speaker and the cardboard is useless.

 

http://img88.imageshack.us/img88/8133/79648663rl8.jpg

 

 

 

This is the back of the speaker. I show this because I saw water on the back of the connectors, and rust as well. Apparently, Subaru does not seal the doors real well, so they designed a rain shield above the speakers. When hooking this up, I assumed the red striped wire was positive.

 

http://img204.imageshack.us/img204/5779/11670683dn0.jpg

 

 

 

Here’s the new speaker, the Polk DB651. To the left of the speaker is a foam ring that comes with it. This is needed when mounting the speaker to the bracket. Oh, the bracket. After going to an auto parts store here (and finding nothing), I took my saber saw to work and cut some mounts from some packing crate wood. ¾ inch plywood. It does not look pretty, but it works.

 

http://img204.imageshack.us/img204/4038/39961519wj8.jpg

 

 

I drilled pilot holes on the wood using the foam ring, and mounted the speaker to the mount. Once again, not pretty, but it worked great.

 

http://img204.imageshack.us/img204/1296/77885555vt5.jpg

 

 

 

The screws that were included with the speaker worked to mount it on the bracket. But to mount it on the door, I used 1 ½ inch wood screws, as they dug into the plastic screw supports just fine. All wire connections were sealed with electrical tape. The wire harness from Crutchfield was not correct for the rear door. The one for the front does work.

 

http://img257.imageshack.us/img257/1028/40480439yd4.jpg

 

 

 

From that point, I placed some foam in the recess above the speaker and put the door panel back on. I didn’t take pictures of the panels, but it looks like a car door. And the sound is much better. I don’t know about those that did this and say it sounds terrible, but I think it’s a huge improvement over factory. The key is to jam some foam into the door so it doesn’t rattle. You can also use Dynamat, but hat is a bit expensive.

 

 

 

See the next thread for the front door. But refer to this for door panel removal......

nice walkthrough and speaker analysis! I haven't actually seen the factory speakers.

 

Should this really be under "performance modifications" tho?

 

do they have any bass? I know some users here have had trouble with their speakers not having much bass and changing the speakers to aftermarket did not help.

nice walkthrough and speaker analysis! I haven't actually seen the factory speakers.

 

Should this really be under "performance modifications" tho?

 

do they have any bass? I know some users here have had trouble with their speakers not having much bass and changing the speakers to aftermarket did not help.

 

 

I thought about the proper forum, and the basic maintenance did not apply. And I see "performance" things like an HID walkthrough, etc... Think of this as high performance audio

 

And yes, the bass response is MUCH better. I recommend something in the door so it does not rattle.

Having finally installed these, after having them sit for two Xmases, I've added some info to the front speaker thread -

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?p=2471113#post2471113

As for sound, I can't complain. Perhaps less ultimate base than OEM, but not muddy. I think most of the vibrations were cured merely by tightening every screw I could find.

how did you hook up the components? did you hooke them up like the stock ones were wired? do these cars have amps for the speakers?

Same as factory - I even left in the factory tweeter, but with some foam tape over it to slightly muffle it.

Nice writeup and pictures too

 

do they have any bass? I know some users here have had trouble with their speakers not having much bass and changing the speakers to aftermarket did not help.

For any speaker upgrade to deliver a proper firm bass, IMO the door holes needs to be sealed to generate a kind of speaker cabinet.

 

It is relatively easily done with Dynamat, butyl mats or whatever wallet and temper dictates.

 

I used the cheap butyl mats to close the holes and dampen the front doors while installing some Infinity speakers. Nice bass now.

 

Another problem with the missing bass is the active equalisation in the head unit, where the bass is significantly rolled of the more you turn up the volume. A major nuisance and a poor way of covering up that the HU is really weak.

 

I'm installing a CleanSweep and a new amplifier in the coming few weeks to remedy that...

Thanks! This should help later today.

Thx for the walkthrough made my install easy and flawless. Those dang covers on the door handles are hard to get off that was the hardest part for me

Taking notes...

@mrmako...Great walk through! I'll be using this in the very near future.

 

I actually posted a thread concerning/inquiring about this very topic (i'm very new to the forum). More specifically the db651 and the db651s. I'd like to upgrade to these but after i called Polk they claimed the db651 wouldn't fit in these doors. Apparently they were wrong. My question is about the fronts and the db651s. I'm looking to keep a good clean but hard hitting low end. I'm pretty confident the regular 651 will accomplish this. Do you feel you lose much in the 651s? I'm thinking I'll amp all four doors but keep the factory HU. I'm looking for something that'll still hit hard and give me some good low end too but w/o sounding like i'm in a bass-off comp. Your feed back is appreciated!

Nice write up, thanks for the walk through.

 

So the Metra speaker mounts don't work? They worked fine for my Corolla (similar tri-lobe mounting design as the LGT). Good to know for future work. I did have a similar experience though with the supplied speaker connections not working.

 

As for the rainshield, all OEMs incorporate some kind of rainshield on their speakers because water does get into the doors. On every car, everywhere. It's all about the mitigation of the water. There are drain holes in the bottom of the door to let the water out. The rainshield's job is to keep the water from soaking the cone/surround and leaking through to the dry side (interior).

@mrmako...Great walk through! I'll be using this in the very near future.

 

I actually posted a thread concerning/inquiring about this very topic (i'm very new to the forum). More specifically the db651 and the db651s. I'd like to upgrade to these but after i called Polk they claimed the db651 wouldn't fit in these doors. Apparently they were wrong. My question is about the fronts and the db651s. I'm looking to keep a good clean but hard hitting low end. I'm pretty confident the regular 651 will accomplish this. Do you feel you lose much in the 651s? I'm thinking I'll amp all four doors but keep the factory HU. I'm looking for something that'll still hit hard and give me some good low end too but w/o sounding like i'm in a bass-off comp. Your feed back is appreciated!

 

Hitting hard and only having door speakers is tough. I installed a sub in the trunk, but it is a JDM Alpine. Not available in the US.

 

http://www.alpine.co.jp/products/speaker/poweredsubwoofer/2007/swe-2200.html

 

The small box has two 8 " subs, is very shallow, and sits in the trunk real nice. Only a 100 Watt amp that it comes with, but I also get a wired crossover / volume setup. If you can get one, it is worth it.

 

My advice: I don't amp the Polks, and they sound good. And a small sub may be what will fill the bill. Just don't expect to rattle the windows. But if you do amp them, Dynamat or sound deaden the doors and you'll be OK.

FWIW most auto part stores have a $5.00 set of plastic pry tools.

 

I got a pretty blue set from Harbor Fright.

Just a couple notes on a good write up. That handle will come off with your hand but you have to be pretty firm about it. I went the driscrewver as well. After you get the screws out you can grad the handle and give a firm yank and most of the door panel will pop out. You can also use to old speaker basket to mount the new speakers to. you can cut them out and trim the plastic and cardboard out of them and there is your speaker mount. You can put screws right into it. If you're planning on running 300 watts through the doors it might not hold up but that's comparing apples to beavers.

On second thought, don't tug on the door handle. The front was in the door tighter than the rear and it didn't work out too well. I have one of those tools but I have only ever used it for taking off manual window regulators.

Nice write up. Thanks for the tips.

I will be delving into this same project shortly and I to love the Polks especially the MM series.

Just as a little info, that 16/22ga wire use in these cars for speaker wire is a natural high pass filter. The resistance bleeds off power that would otherwise be available at the speaker, it is referred to as "I squared R losses". The low end you are looking for essentially is evaporating into thin air. Upgrading your speaker wires should be on your to do list when considering any speaker replacement.

Hi all what are the four wires going to oem tweeter from connection block. Also when fitting an after market component system should you just take feed from wires going to existing main speaker and connect to input on crossover. This would mean not using existing wires to existing tweeter. Any help be much appreciated.

Hi all what are the four wires going to oem tweeter from connection block. Also when fitting an after market component system should you just take feed from wires going to existing main speaker and connect to input on crossover. This would mean not using existing wires to existing tweeter. Any help be much appreciated.

 

I just used the existing for the mid and used that going into the crossover. The wires to those were just clipped.

 

And all new speaker wire is a good idea. Just need to follow it from the door, through the back of the dash to the head unit.