Brake tips

Ive read alot of thread about brakes and how to change them and which is the best to go with. I recently did this and snapped some pics to illustrate certain aspects you may read but have no idea what the author is talking about

 

Caliper bolts are 14mm in size and located on the rear side of each caliper:

http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r182/GEE-OTTO/RK12VZ5_zpsa86ff767.jpeg

http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r182/GEE-OTTO/RMCY47U_zpsd0a494b9.jpeg

 

Once the two bolts are out, slip the rotor off and pry out the two pads and set them aside.

 

Caliper brackets hold the caliper and are attached with big 17mm bolt that may require muscle OR a "cheat pipe" as it is commonly refered to as:

http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r182/GEE-OTTO/R6WW1JA_zps0ec37d16.jpeg

 

PITA bolts if you dont have help! Here are the two ways to help these bolts, first the lower bolt because a ratchet fits this one easily:

http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r182/GEE-OTTO/RM7C721_zps494eaa05.jpeg

I used a 1/2 drive ratchet inserted into the end of a 1" dia 30" long steel pipe:

 

For the upper 17mm bolt my ratchet didnt fit b/c i didnt have a 3" extension to get clearance from the bracket itself so I employed the pipe again with a wrench:

http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r182/GEE-OTTO/RHWH2S4_zpsa59055f6.jpeg

 

Now once your bracket is off your rotor will not simply fall off most likely it is rusted tight to the hub or snuggly secure (which ever makes your brain feel better). You typically read threads that say "use the two M8 radiator support bolts to back the rotor off" Yeah, instead of doing that just pick up two M8 bolts while you are buying your brake hardware

 

What most people are talking about when "backing the rotor off by taking turns on each bolt" is simply threading the two M8 bolts into the two smaller holes in the rotor hub and turning them to separate the rotor from the wheel hub.

http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r182/GEE-OTTO/R98AY2C_zpsa724c3a9.jpeg

http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r182/GEE-OTTO/RUWN9VC_zps99878730.jpeg

 

You can see that after a few turns on each bolt it separates and you can remove the rotor!

 

Once removed used a wire brush to clean the hub surface of the rust scale and apply a light coating of anti-seize or lithium grease to guard against a fused rotor/hub the next time around!

 

Once you have prepped the surface install your new rotor and replace the bracket. While you are doing this take out some insurance and put some anti-seize on those 17mm bolts:

 

 

Next you will have to compress your caliper to fit over your new thicker rotors and pads! So place the two pads in the caliper and use a beefy screw driver or the short L shaped tire iron in your spare tire kit to wedge them apart, this gives you enough leverage to evenly push the piston back in and gain enough clearance for it to slip over the new parts:cool:

 

http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r182/GEE-OTTO/R9VAFVD_zps8105b476.jpeg

 

 

YAY!

Thanks GEE-OTTO. Great write up. Did you go with new Subaru rotors? What pads did you use? I was about to do this with with new Subi rotors and Hawk HPS or HPS+ pads.

good write up!

Nice pics!

 

Thanks for the write up!

The rear rotor bracket are very hard to get to

 

if you get some pics of those, I'm sure it will help a lot of people out

 

and you should change the title of the thread to HOW TO: Change brake pads and rotors, and move it to the DIY section

Thanks again for the pics...

Ill get some rears up once i get the rotors in!

 

 

I also wanted to add that it took me 30 mins per side, but Ive done dozens of brake jobs in my day. For a novice, i would double that the longest part for me was the cleaning of the hub surface and compression of the caliper piston.

Thanks guys i felt after reading a few threads that I wanted to make my own and show folks some of the particulars

Thanks GEE-OTTO. Great write up. Did you go with new Subaru rotors? What pads did you use? I was about to do this with with new Subi rotors and Hawk HPS or HPS+ pads.

 

 

OEM Rotors and Duralast Semi-Metalic pads:eek: Yup my stockers failed around 40K went with the Duralast Gold Semi's for the past 80K miles, low dust, no squeaks, great stopping power and don't break the bank. So at 120k it was the natural replacement, although I had bought (and returned) a more expensive option:lol:

Where did you find OEM rotors? I need a set of rotors for my 05LGT.

Thanks guys i felt after reading a few threads that I wanted to make my own and show folks some of the particulars

 

Glad you did. Efforts much appreciated!

Nice pics!

 

Thanks for the write up!

 

Also note that the pipe doubles as a self defense weapon/intimidation tool:lol:

Where did you find OEM rotors? I need a set of rotors for my 05LGT.

 

Sadly, my dealer

Were those original rotors or had they been resurfaced once before? Any reason not to resurface? I just hit 60k and am getting a little bit of shudder when braking at higher speeds, I figured new pads and resurfacing the rotors would be sufficient.

^^ It could just be your pads. Try doing repetitive (4-6) high-power braking stops from 60+mph and then driving around to let them cool off. Most likely new pads and resurfacing will work (sometimes it's less of a hassle to buy new rotors if you are a single-car household).

What is the thread pitch on those M8 bolts? 1.25 seems common, but since you bought them it should be on the wrapper Thanks

^^ It could just be your pads. Try doing repetitive (4-6) high-power braking stops from 60+mph and then driving around to let them cool off. Most likely new pads and resurfacing will work (sometimes it's less of a hassle to buy new rotors if you are a single-car household).

 

I've tried that several times, but it only makes a difference for a day or two at most.

I've tried that several times, but it only makes a difference for a day or two at most.

 

They are M8 x 1.25

Just did mine a month ago...yeah, those 17mm bolts were a PITA. Next time. I'll consider the "cheat pipe"

Just did mine a month ago...yeah, those 17mm bolts were a PITA. Next time. I'll consider the "cheat pipe"

 

Oh yeah cheat on them ho's!!!!

 

 

ho's = 17mm bolts

I like the Duralast Golds too - nothing wrong with them! If I remember correctly, they have a nice rubbery shim on the back that really makes them feel like a high quality pad.

Yeah mine have that rubber sheath take the place of using grease !

Update*****

 

The rears are coming but good garsh!! They are a PITFA! Youll need:

Jackstand(s) or two jacks (youll need a jack to compress the rear shock in order to remove the upper control arm from the knuckle. You will need a deep well 17mm socket, 1/2" drive and you wont have room (if you aren't on a lift) for the good ol cheat pipe. Prob will need a 2 lb. hammer and breaker bar to get the caliper bracket bolts loose:eek:

 

Now this is my first take I think I can 17mm bracket bolt with a U-joint adapter on my 1/2" ratchet. I dont want to mess with the control arms if I dont have to

 

 

OR

 

I might just buy the rotors and pay Mach V to do it

I just had one of my rears off to replace the wheel bearing. I don't recall any real difficulties getting the caliper off, in fact I remember saying to myself, "that's all it takes to do the brakes?" Only thing special I recall is spraying some PB Blaster on there and let it soak for a few hours while I ran some errands. I used a 1/2" drive and a 10" extension... I also recall the caliper bolts being 14mm as well.

I just had one of my rears off to replace the wheel bearing. I don't recall any real difficulties getting the caliper off, in fact I remember saying to myself, "that's all it takes to do the brakes?" Only thing special I recall is spraying some PB Blaster on there and let it soak for a few hours while I ran some errands. I used a 1/2" drive and a 10" extension... I also recall the caliper bolts being 14mm as well.

 

Ohk so an extension and soak em it might be