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Car running terrible after flashing Stage 1/2


drsnobiz

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Okay, so I have a 2005 LGT 5MT. I just bought it recently and decided that I wanted to get a full exhaust and a few other things. So far, mechanically, I've only installed a Cobb UP and Cobb Race DP. My CBE actually arrived yesterday, but has not been installed yet.

 

The problem arose when I flashed Stage 1 with my APv2. It seemed like I just wasn't getting the power I should be out of it. I got on here (without mentioning that problem) and everyone was saying that I should go ahead and flash Stage 2. I did, and now it's gotten even worse and much, much more noticeable. I hooked up my AP yesterday just to see how much boost I was getting and I can't get more than about 4 pounds. It's really frustrating and I can't figure out what's going on. I don't believe I have any leaks from the UP/DP install.

 

Any advice or info on places to check for issues would be great.

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I didn't touch any of the vacuum lines during the installs, so I don't see how they would be. I've got to get out there today and make sure everything is connected right. But it seems like it's gotten much worse the more it runs.
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I've blown off the vac line from the BOV that connects under the intercooler just by driving, you don't necessarily have to "touch" anything for that to happen. Alot of times, this happens to people that go stage 2 due to increased boost levels.

 

Again, when you say "running like crap", what do you mean? What are the symptoms????

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It definitely sounds like you popped your vaccuum line. Take off your TMIC and make sure the line that runs from your BOV is connected properly. Then zip tie both ends securely. The same thing happened to me.
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it definitely sounds like you popped your vaccuum line. Take off your tmic and make sure the line that runs from your bov is connected properly. Then zip tie both ends securely. The same thing happened to me.

 

+1

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Log the car, check the boost levels and vacuum. Also you might want to take soapy water and put some where the intercooler meets the turbo to see if there is a leak at that point as well.

2008 6mt Legacy Gt Spec B DGM - Not so Stock/Work in progress

2006 5mt Legacy Gt OBP - Sold

2005 5eat Legacy Gt OBP - RIP

 

R.I.P Coxx

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I am not sure this is a vac leak issue..

 

Have you tried flashing back to stock?

I have not. Should I try that first before checking beneath the intercooler? I did put a Stage 1 flash on top of the Stage 2 base and that is what's currently running.

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I have not. Should I try that first before checking beneath the intercooler? I did put a Stage 1 flash on top of the Stage 2 base and that is what's currently running.

 

I would eliminate the tune as being the issue first. If you flash to stock and the problem persist, then we know that the problem is definately not tune related and we could move on to the mechanical stuff.

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As others have said flash back to stock, see how the car reacts, I would be surprised if the cobb map(s) made your car run so poorly on a mechanically sound car. Also you didn’t try flashing stage 1 real time map on top of your stage 2 base map did you? I was a little confused from your posting that could cause an issue also. Have you thrown a check engine light and is your idle rough?
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As others have said flash back to stock, see how the car reacts, I would be surprised if the cobb map(s) made your car run so poorly on a mechanically sound car. Also you didn’t try flashing stage 1 real time map on top of your stage 2 base map did you? I was a little confused from your posting that could cause an issue also. Have you thrown a check engine light and is your idle rough?

Actually, yes. I've got a stage 1 realtime map on top of my stage 2 base map. However, I only did this when the stage 2 map was running like crap to see if stage 1 would be better. No CELs and idle is normal. I only notice issues when I attempt to accelerate. I'll flash back to the stock map when I get out of class in 30 minutes. Is it okay to simply do a realtime flash or must I change the base map instead?

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Actually, yes. I've got a stage 1 realtime map on top of my stage 2 base map. However, I only did this when the stage 2 map was running like crap to see if stage 1 would be better. No CELs and idle is normal. I only notice issues when I attempt to accelerate. I'll flash back to the stock map when I get out of class in 30 minutes. Is it okay to simply do a realtime flash or must I change the base map instead?

 

When you change to stage 1 or stage 2, you need to change the base map first by connecting green test wires and flashing, then flashing the corresponding real time map with green connectors disconnected, don’t mix and match base maps with real time maps. Did you ever have the stage 1 base map and stage 1 real time map loaded at the same time? Either way, go back stock first and continue diagnosing this systematically.

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When you change to stage 1 or stage 2, you need to change the base map first by connecting green test wires and flashing, then flashing the corresponding real time map with green connectors disconnected, don’t mix and match base maps with real time maps. Did you ever have the stage 1 base map and stage 1 real time map loaded at the same time? Either way, go back stock first and continue diagnosing this systematically.

When I first installed the AP it was outdated and I did install the Stage 1 map for both RT and base. It did not act as bad as it is now, but it wasn't normal. I then changed both the RT and base map to Stage 2. Later that day I uninstalled the AP completely and updated the firmware and maps. Then installed the Stage 2 map for both Rt and base. When I noticed it running more and more poorly, I changed the RT map back to Stage 1.

 

Either way, when I get to the car I'll change the RT and base map back to stock and see how it drives. Will then post up info.

 

Thanks again for all the advice and info.

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