Skidude Posted January 13, 2013 Share Posted January 13, 2013 I got the brilliant idea to save money by buying a key with remote (supposedly from a 2009) on ebay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/251202229447?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649 They sent me one that looks just like that, but it has the laser-cut blade. Now that I have it and put the guts into a flip-key housing I can't get it programmed, and I started reading more in-depth here and I can't find any good reason why it won't work. My theories and questions: There seem to be two kinds of codes inside the remotes; those with 8 digits on a sticker, and those with 8 digits and an alpha-numeric code on the same sticker. My original remote has only 8 digits, while this new remote has the two codes. Is this because it is a newer laser-cut key instead of the traditional key? If I get the right kind of key, will it have the right kind of code so I can actually program it to my car? Also, I have seen it menioned once or twice (but never confirmed) that once the chip in the key has been programmed, it can't be re-programmed, so using a chip out of a used key isn't an option? If my theories are correct, I will return the key I have and buy a new one from Fred Bean, assuming anybody can tell me that would work with my 05 OBXT. It seems that whatever key he is selling will work with my car. If only my first theory is correct, I will send this key back with instructions to replace it with one like the picture, with a regular blade. So can anybody confirm or bust my theories? I can't find anything conclusive in the other threads. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iNVAR Posted January 13, 2013 Share Posted January 13, 2013 http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/switchblade-flip-key-101124.html?t=101124&highlight=flip+key and numerous other threads about remote programming and the chips inside. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skidude Posted January 14, 2013 Author Share Posted January 14, 2013 I have read through hundreds of pages of these threads and I can't find anything that talks about 2010+ keys (the laser-cut keys) working, it's all about the 2008 and sometimes 2009 keys. I still think the ebay guy sent me a 2010 key instead of a 2009 key thinking they were the same, but I don't want to just replace it if the immobilizer chip can't be reprogrammed, since it's a used key. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dujo Posted January 14, 2013 Share Posted January 14, 2013 I have a 2008 all in one key programmed to my 2005. The 2005 should be able to handle an all in one. No idea how it would handle a 2010 key. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skidude Posted January 14, 2013 Author Share Posted January 14, 2013 I just emailed the ebay guy asking him to exchange my key for a 2008 or 2009 key with a standard blade. I'm hoping that will fix the issue. Some other thread I found seems to indicate that a used immobilizer chip can be made to work with my ECU, since the key isn't being programmed, only the ECU. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skidude Posted January 14, 2013 Author Share Posted January 14, 2013 Oh, and if anybody has a minute and has a 2009-2009 etc. key that works with their older car, can you take it apart and see if the sticker on the circuit board has one 8-digit code, or two codes (the top one would be 8-digits, and the bottom would be something else, I think with letters in it)? I would be forever grateful! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dujo Posted January 14, 2013 Share Posted January 14, 2013 Done. It is the latter of the two scenarios. I'm not gonna post my codes, but it is as you say. One 8 digit code on top and a second one on the bottom, with letters in it. 2008+ all in one key blank from Infamous Performance programmed on a 2005 LGT Wagon ECU. Programmed and cut at the dealer as the third key in the system (after the two that came with the car, which are teardrop style). Enjoy! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skidude Posted January 15, 2013 Author Share Posted January 15, 2013 So the one with letters does work then? This does not bode well for my theory of a 2009 working and a 2010 key not working. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dujo Posted January 15, 2013 Share Posted January 15, 2013 Yep. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated thefultonhow Posted January 15, 2013 I Donated Share Posted January 15, 2013 He probably sent you a 2009 Tribeca key. Which, as you discovered, does not work, despite having the same FCC ID. Been there, done that. Did the pic on the eBay listing show a non-laser-cut key? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skidude Posted January 15, 2013 Author Share Posted January 15, 2013 He probably sent you a 2009 Tribeca key. Which, as you discovered, does not work, despite having the same FCC ID. Been there, done that. Did the pic on the eBay listing show a non-laser-cut key? Yes, the picture did show a non-laser-cut key. I contacted him and he said he will give me a refund if he doesn't have any of the right key in stock, or he will replace it if he has the right one. He said to send him the part number of the key I want and he will look when he gets mine back. He doesn't have any of the right one right now, but he gets new ones every day. If he doesn't get new ones I'll probably just buy the right one from Fred Beans or something. It's twice the price (or more) but at least I know it'll work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skidude Posted January 22, 2013 Author Share Posted January 22, 2013 Well, I sent that key back and got a different one from a different seller. This one only has one 7-character code inside on a sticker, but the code has a couple "B"s in the middle. WTF did I get this time, and is there any way to program it to my car? I can't find anything anywhere about a remote that only has one code with letters in it. Also, if it helps, the shell snaps off via a slot on the top instead of a screw at the base like the last one. This is getting stupid, and if my frustration is worth any money I'm not saving much over the $85 option of fred beans. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated thefultonhow Posted January 22, 2013 I Donated Share Posted January 22, 2013 The 8-digit code should be inside the remote unit, where the battery is. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
.Catalyst. Posted January 22, 2013 Share Posted January 22, 2013 Interesting. I had a similar issue myself with a 2009 remote (not immobilizer chip as I used my own from a spare key). I was sent a 2009 remote (keypad only) for my flip key which is Subaru P/NAME Keyless Trans #88036AG05A which had a sticker with only the 8 digit code. I tried the manual method of adding it and all the right indicators (tones) said I had done it, but it wouldn't work. I decided to take it to the dealer to assign it. They said that the remote was sending a signal but my BIU wouldn't accept it (wrong frequency). The looked at the part number and said "it should work - possibly there are some newer remotes that send a frequency that's out of band from what the earlier models accept." I didn't have a lot of faith in that answer but am at a loss as to why I can't get it to work with my car when others have newer version working. If there's any truth to there being a 2009 remote with two numbers printed on it vs. one when it comes to compatibility - is it a different part number? I have my flip key built, key cut and immobilizer in, but a dead remote in terms of working with my car (need 2009 button layout). My spec.B [#163] Project Thread with Pictures Get CryoTuned! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skidude Posted January 22, 2013 Author Share Posted January 22, 2013 Yes, that is where this 7-character code is. On a white sticker on the circuit board. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated thefultonhow Posted January 22, 2013 I Donated Share Posted January 22, 2013 Interesting. I had a similar issue myself with a 2009 remote (not immobilizer chip as I used my own from a spare key). I was sent a 2009 remote (keypad only) for my flip key which is Subaru P/NAME Keyless Trans #88036AG05A which had a sticker with only the 8 digit code. I tried the manual method of adding it and all the right indicators (tones) said I had done it, but it wouldn't work. I decided to take it to the dealer to assign it. They said that the remote was sending a signal but my BIU wouldn't accept it (wrong frequency). The looked at the part number and said "it should work - possibly there are some newer remotes that send a frequency that's out of band from what the earlier models accept." I didn't have a lot of faith in that answer but am at a loss as to why I can't get it to work with my car when others have newer version working. If there's any truth to there being a 2009 remote with two numbers printed on it vs. one when it comes to compatibility - is it a different part number? I have my flip key built, key cut and immobilizer in, but a dead remote in terms of working with my car (need 2009 button layout). You sure it's a remote from a 2009 Legacy/Outback? And not a 2010+ or a 2009 Tribeca? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
.Catalyst. Posted January 22, 2013 Share Posted January 22, 2013 Nope - that's my issue I'm trying to determine based on the part number on the Subaru bag and the only identifying number (8 digit numeric with a qr-code on a sticker). Google searches have been little to no help, just like the stealership. My spec.B [#163] Project Thread with Pictures Get CryoTuned! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skidude Posted January 22, 2013 Author Share Posted January 22, 2013 Here are pictures of each side of the circuit board, if it helps. The FCC ID on the key itself is GWTWB1U811. http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8491/8407165340_cba8af924d_b.jpg http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8191/8406074559_c9d2d14fd0_b.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated thefultonhow Posted January 23, 2013 I Donated Share Posted January 23, 2013 811 is 2010+. 766 is 2009. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skidude Posted January 23, 2013 Author Share Posted January 23, 2013 811 is 2010+. 766 is 2009. Then how come it has the regular key instead of the laser key? My roommate's 2010 outback has the laser cut key. Is there any way to be sure I get the right key from an ebay seller, or am I stuck paying 3x as much at a dealer? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated thefultonhow Posted January 23, 2013 I Donated Share Posted January 23, 2013 Then how come it has the regular key instead of the laser key? My roommate's 2010 outback has the laser cut key. Is there any way to be sure I get the right key from an ebay seller, or am I stuck paying 3x as much at a dealer? Is the key shell uncut? It's possible someone took a newer remote and put it in an older key shell. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skidude Posted January 23, 2013 Author Share Posted January 23, 2013 Yes, the key blade is cut. I could see your scenario being the case if it weren't cut, but I doubt that's the case here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated thefultonhow Posted January 23, 2013 I Donated Share Posted January 23, 2013 Interesting. I'm not sure what the story is, then. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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