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5EAT Ask your Questions!?!


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To clarify, I service pre-facelift LGTs, and I do have valve bodies ready to ship within a couple days of receiving an order.
[CENTER][B][I] Front Limited Slip Racing Differentials for the 5EAT now available for $1895 shipped, please inquire for details! [/I][/B][/CENTER]
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Yes, not referring to you Dave!

 

No worries, that was more aimed at the Australians. Have several shipments going halfway around the world next week.

Australia: Where muscle cars never died out.

[CENTER][B][I] Front Limited Slip Racing Differentials for the 5EAT now available for $1895 shipped, please inquire for details! [/I][/B][/CENTER]
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Yay, another tuner that doesn't communicate.

 

Why bother? Do you really want him tuning your car?

 

I have never had an issue with his communication. I do know that he's not taking on any new customers for 1-2 months while he catches up on correspondence and retunes required.

 

To clarify, I service pre-facelift LGTs, and I do have valve bodies ready to ship within a couple days of receiving an order.

 

So does the new built box you have spoken about work with a post-facelift with no other modification or ECU reprogramming etc. required?

 

No worries, that was more aimed at the Australians. Have several shipments going halfway around the world next week.

Australia: Where muscle cars never died out.

 

What makes you say this :lol:

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So does the new built box you have spoken about work with a post-facelift with no other modification or ECU reprogramming etc. required?

 

It does. Important note though, the valve body upgrade for it is not finished with development, so that would come later. Everything else can be made to order.

 

What makes you say this :lol:

 

Am I mistaken?

Between the Falcons, HSV, Vauxhall, R34, S15, top model Subarus... we don't get ANY of that. After a long stint of nothingness, we finally got a limited number of the Monaro and Commodore for a couple years (Pontiac trim), but then GM dropped those just as fast. Australia gets fast cars that we simply don't.

[CENTER][B][I] Front Limited Slip Racing Differentials for the 5EAT now available for $1895 shipped, please inquire for details! [/I][/B][/CENTER]
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AFAIK, the Camaro is based off of the Maloo, and supposedly, I've heard that the new Chevy SS will be based off of the Commodore.. which is nice because I really wanted a G8 until GM killed Pontiac

 

I still freak out and stare every time I see a G8, especially if it has a LS3, which is almost never.

 

Camaro, not that we were really missing out on anything, but that wasn't for sale in 2003-2009. If you wanted a GM LS V8 through most of the 2000s, you either bought a Corvette, a specific Cadillac, a couple very limited others, or a pickup truck/SUV. If you wanted a fast Ford, you bought a Mustang or nothing. Practically a mono-culture. But yes things are a lot better now, lots of new fun things are out, more coming. Power and performance is more competitive.

[CENTER][B][I] Front Limited Slip Racing Differentials for the 5EAT now available for $1895 shipped, please inquire for details! [/I][/B][/CENTER]
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  • 5 months later...

Hello gents. New to the legacy forums, but I've been with an 01 4eat RS for a few years and on the RS forums for a bit till I switched over to the 05 GT.

 

The Legacy GT is a completely different animal from the NA RS and I figured this would be a good place to ask. Is it a problem starting from a complete stop in manual mode and then switching to regular drive once you hit 5th? What if you're coasting at a point where 3rd is low enough on the RPM's and switching over to D?

 

Lastly, is switching to manual mode while in motion during regular driving a problem? I just wanted to make sure because about 20 or so pages back, some one mentioned to come to a stop before switching over and using google to search the forums didnt exactly render a satisfactory answer. Thanks.

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I'm not ready to completely rule it out officially just yet... But I had commented some time ago about this shudder I get from 2nd to 3rd under boost and mild throttle, usually under load like going up a subtle incline... Couldn't figure out what it was, was very few and far between when it would happen since it was very particular conditions that would manifest the "Shudder" from gear to gear... I was worried slipping... But after commenting in here, someone mentioned could be the boost leak I was possibly seeing from my end tank on my TMIC being compromised... Well replaced the TMIC with a BP'd from beanman and ever since I've haven't felt it, even tried replicating the conditions a time or two... Could very well be my fix... Hoping I never feel it again, but keeping an eye out for now. Figured I'd drop an update of my own. :D
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Hello gents. New to the legacy forums, but I've been with an 01 4eat RS for a few years and on the RS forums for a bit till I switched over to the 05 GT.

 

The Legacy GT is a completely different animal from the NA RS and I figured this would be a good place to ask. Is it a problem starting from a complete stop in manual mode and then switching to regular drive once you hit 5th? What if you're coasting at a point where 3rd is low enough on the RPM's and switching over to D?

 

Lastly, is switching to manual mode while in motion during regular driving a problem? I just wanted to make sure because about 20 or so pages back, some one mentioned to come to a stop before switching over and using google to search the forums didnt exactly render a satisfactory answer. Thanks.

 

 

I've owned my car since 05, original owner (105k miles)... and have done that like a MILLION times... I think your good ;)

 

All it will do if dumping into manual or "sport" if you will, while driving, is possibly bump your revs up a tad, and it will hold your gears longer... Bumping down into D/Drive the reverse is generally seen... And all so subtle. just my 2cents

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If I understand correctly what you're asking, the answer is "no problem" in either case. I switch back and forth from manual mode to Drive mode without much of a thought.

Hello gents. New to the legacy forums, but I've been with an 01 4eat RS for a few years and on the RS forums for a bit till I switched over to the 05 GT.

 

The Legacy GT is a completely different animal from the NA RS and I figured this would be a good place to ask. Is it a problem starting from a complete stop in manual mode and then switching to regular drive once you hit 5th? What if you're coasting at a point where 3rd is low enough on the RPM's and switching over to D?

 

Lastly, is switching to manual mode while in motion during regular driving a problem? I just wanted to make sure because about 20 or so pages back, some one mentioned to come to a stop before switching over and using google to search the forums didnt exactly render a satisfactory answer. Thanks.

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  • 1 month later...

I'm getting ready to tow a 3,000lb (GW) u-haul trailer across the country (NJ-WA). I have an 09 3.0R legacy with 30k. Trans and everything is perfect - should I consider doing a fluid flush?

 

I've read a lot in regards to a cooler, but i'm on the fence leaning towards not installing one because I feel like i'm a smart driver. I've heard of some transmissions prematurely failing due to operating at lower than normalized temperature for so long, and others for improper install, and overheating --- could be due to other factors, who knows..

 

Finally, I'm Eric and i think this is my first post. I've owned a few Subarus... 07 STI, 99 2.5rs coupe, and finally my legacy. After I move back to the best coast, i'll be installing all my goodies-didn't want to put 3k towing miles on a brand new set of tires and coilovers..especially while snow's still falling out of the sky.

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I'm getting ready to tow a 3,000lb (GW) u-haul trailer across the country (NJ-WA). I have an 09 3.0R legacy with 30k. Trans and everything is perfect - should I consider doing a fluid flush?

 

I've read a lot in regards to a cooler, but i'm on the fence leaning towards not installing one because I feel like i'm a smart driver. I've heard of some transmissions prematurely failing due to operating at lower than normalized temperature for so long, and others for improper install, and overheating --- could be due to other factors, who knows..

 

Finally, I'm Eric and i think this is my first post. I've owned a few Subarus... 07 STI, 99 2.5rs coupe, and finally my legacy. After I move back to the best coast, i'll be installing all my goodies-didn't want to put 3k towing miles on a brand new set of tires and coilovers..especially while snow's still falling out of the sky.

 

Absolutely do a fluid change and you should be good. If you don't tow regularly you shouldn't need to bother with an ATF cooler, especially since you'll be doing your limited towing in cold weather.

 

You say "flush". Just to be clear, if your fluid has been changed regularly just a drain and fill is probably good. If you have high mileage be careful about flushing all of the fluid with fresh stuff. Also, don't do any type of "power flush". There's a good write up here on how to do a flush just using the natural flow of ATF, and it works great with no added pressure to the system to cause any damage.

"Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>>

 

Not currently in stock :(

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Absolutely do a fluid change and you should be good. If you don't tow regularly you shouldn't need to bother with an ATF cooler, especially since you'll be doing your limited towing in cold weather.

 

You say "flush". Just to be clear, if your fluid has been changed regularly just a drain and fill is probably good. If you have high mileage be careful about flushing all of the fluid with fresh stuff. Also, don't do any type of "power flush". There's a good write up here on how to do a flush just using the natural flow of ATF, and it works great with no added pressure to the system to cause any damage.

 

I saw that write-up, but honestly really don't mind paying to have it done. Obviously if it doesn't need a flush, I won't flush it.. Trans fluid has never been changed (flush OR drain/fill), it only has 30k.

 

Guess i'll just do a fluid change when I change the oil.. Probably also do the rear diff fluid while it's on the lift.

 

Thanks for the reply.

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Yup, sounds good. Just have them drain/fill the ATF and rear diff fluid--may as well do the front diff also. Don't let them talk you into any sort of flush or power-flush for the ATF--you don't need it at 30k and it won't do any good.

"Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>>

 

Not currently in stock :(

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