ivonr Posted June 15, 2013 Share Posted June 15, 2013 2008 2.5i, just hit 50,000 miles and the shop is telling me I should replace rear pads and rotors due to rust (quoted $370), alignment ($60) and replace the trans fluid ($150)). I have an automatic transmission. Does this seem legitimate? Is this normally the time to do this service? Sched maintenance document says to inspect but nothing about replacement. Also, do the prices seem fair? This is a family tire pros in northern colorado Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ResidentRedneck Posted June 16, 2013 Share Posted June 16, 2013 Ask for thickness specs on the pads and rotors. Rotors and pads rust every night when it rains, so that's BS. Does your car drive straight? If so, then you don't need an alignment. The tranny flush might be the only thing you need, but I can't speculate. Sounds like the dealer is trying to sell you a lot you don't need. I would find a dealer that's less scumbag. Sent from my SGH-M919 using Tapatalk 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ResidentRedneck Posted June 16, 2013 Share Posted June 16, 2013 On a side note, I'm jealous off your mileage. I just rolled over 200k in my 08 2.5I. Sent from my SGH-M919 using Tapatalk 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShrinerMonkey Posted June 17, 2013 Share Posted June 17, 2013 Does your car drive straight? If so, then you don't need an alignment. Ummm, no. Alignment doesn't just affect tracking of the car. Toe and camber can adversely affect tire wear and have no noticeable impact on tracking or regular driving. Ask the shop why they are recommending an alignment. Have them show you the uneven tire wear. Are you regularly rotating your tires? Also ask the shop why they are recommending rear pads and rotors because of "rust". Are the rotors structurally compromised because of corrosion? I seriously doubt it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ResidentRedneck Posted June 17, 2013 Share Posted June 17, 2013 If your toe is out and you hold the steering wheel straight, your telling me that the cars going to drive straight? Sent from my SGH-M919 using Tapatalk 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bomberlegacy Posted June 17, 2013 Share Posted June 17, 2013 I would also make sure they put the right trans fluid in there too '08 Legacy 2.5i - hybrid intake - delta 1000 - E85 - magnaflow exhaust Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShrinerMonkey Posted June 17, 2013 Share Posted June 17, 2013 If your toe is out and you hold the steering wheel straight, your telling me that the cars going to drive straight? Sent from my SGH-M919 using Tapatalk 2 The the toe is out on both wheels, yes it will. Also, camber won't affect the tracking of the car either. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ResidentRedneck Posted June 17, 2013 Share Posted June 17, 2013 Most of the time toe is what gets knocked out off wack. Regardless, with just 50k miles I doubt it needs one. But like what was said, check for abdominal tire wear. Sent from my SGH-M919 using Tapatalk 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wurkenman Posted June 20, 2013 Share Posted June 20, 2013 check for abdominal tire wear. Tires don't belong on your stomach. If you woke up today, you have another chance to do it right. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ResidentRedneck Posted June 20, 2013 Share Posted June 20, 2013 Tires don't belong on your stomach. Ahhaha! This stupid Swype on my phone always messes up words. Sent from my SGH-M919 using Tapatalk 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wurkenman Posted June 20, 2013 Share Posted June 20, 2013 Ahhaha! This stupid Swype on my phone always messes up words. Sent from my SGH-M919 using Tapatalk 2 I have that trouble too, just can't stop the sarcastic nature I was born with. Sent from my SGH-T999 using Tapatalk 4 Beta If you woke up today, you have another chance to do it right. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kramm Posted June 21, 2013 Share Posted June 21, 2013 I just hit 50k and replaced my rear pads in Feb. Rotors were still good though. Front pads are coming up to get replaced soon and I may need rotors. Mainly because while I under warranty I had my rotors resurfaced 2-3 times due to steering wheel shutter when breaking. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShrinerMonkey Posted June 21, 2013 Share Posted June 21, 2013 Just replace the rotors they don't cost that much. I have never bothered to have rotors resurfaced. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sanchitosonria Posted June 21, 2013 Share Posted June 21, 2013 I am sure it is cheaper to resurface the rotors than buy new ones... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ResidentRedneck Posted June 21, 2013 Share Posted June 21, 2013 But after you resurface rotors a few times, they become thin and warp easier. Sent from my SGH-M919 using Tapatalk 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sanchitosonria Posted June 22, 2013 Share Posted June 22, 2013 True but I am guessing they haven't been resurfaced even once on his car? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ResidentRedneck Posted June 22, 2013 Share Posted June 22, 2013 you cant just assume they need to be replaced. ask the dealer what the specs are on the rotors, and ask what the minimum is on the rotor. its their job to sell you as much crap as possible, even if you dont need it. they count on you, the stupid naive consumer (not saying you are, hell you came to a forum to ask first) to not know the difference and charge you anyway. if they throw your car on the alignment rack, and its perfectly in spec, theyre gonna drive it off and charge you the hundred bucks anyway. its their job. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GEE-OTTO Posted June 22, 2013 Share Posted June 22, 2013 2008 2.5i, just hit 50,000 miles and the shop is telling me I should replace rear pads and rotors due to rust (quoted $370), alignment ($60) and replace the trans fluid ($150)). I have an automatic transmission. Does this seem legitimate? Is this normally the time to do this service? Sched maintenance document says to inspect but nothing about replacement. Also, do the prices seem fair? This is a family tire pros in northern colorado Rotors should be fine i replace my fronts around 115K miles and my rear are still in spec at 131K miles. I would replace pads however. Alignment could be needed if out of spec ATF flush price seems fair just make sure its a legit flush and make them use Subaru ATF. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivonr Posted June 23, 2013 Author Share Posted June 23, 2013 Went to the subaru dealership yesterday and they told me the brakes are still good for a while, so I will hold off. However, over the weekend I had to do some unexpected SERIOUS off roading to get to a campsite and I'm pretty sure my OEM shocks need replaced. Had to go down a 1 hour long trail intended for 4x4 trucks and bottomed out many times. Got big dents in my exhaust, cat and muffler now. At least I got props from the jeep and 4 runner guys. They were amazed I took a Subaru up the whole trail Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GEE-OTTO Posted June 24, 2013 Share Posted June 24, 2013 Went to the subaru dealership yesterday and they told me the brakes are still good for a while, so I will hold off. However, over the weekend I had to do some unexpected SERIOUS off roading to get to a campsite and I'm pretty sure my OEM shocks need replaced. Had to go down a 1 hour long trail intended for 4x4 trucks and bottomed out many times. Got big dents in my exhaust, cat and muffler now. At least I got props from the jeep and 4 runner guys. They were amazed I took a Subaru up the whole trail If they clunk now they are toast, luckily replacement KYBs are cheap Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivonr Posted June 24, 2013 Author Share Posted June 24, 2013 Rode fine to work today. How would I tell if they are toast? Rough ride? Uneven tire wear? How cheap are replacements ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GEE-OTTO Posted June 25, 2013 Share Posted June 25, 2013 Rode fine to work today. How would I tell if they are toast? Rough ride? Uneven tire wear? How cheap are replacements ? Find a parking lot with speed bumps, turn radio off, drive over each bump slowly and listen for a clunking type noise or any odd noise from the action of the shock traveling. The old "settle" test is ok but tough to perform correctly and if you dont know the difference btwn acceptable and unacceptable rebound its useless. I had bad shocks for 15K miles tire wear was unaffected but I would notice the nose dive under moderate braking. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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