Xplosivo1 Posted April 13, 2013 Share Posted April 13, 2013 Help, my car quit and now has some serious noise issues. Here's the story...I was driving to my sons school because they were having a kindergarten kids lunch day (where parents can bring and eat with their kids) and noticed it seemed low on power. I use intelligent drive 98% of the time because in my small town there is no reason to go faster than 40 mph. I came to a stop sign and it stuttered a little and almost stalled. As I let out the clutch to go again it bogged down heavily and just stalled. I tried starting again and it would barely crank. I pushed it to the side of the road and tried cranking it again, no luck. My battery was 10 years old and I was certain this was the issue. I installed a new battery and tried cranking it again...still would barely crank. I took the battery back and had them check it on their tester, it was low on charge so they gave me a fresh one. I re-installed the battery and was able to get it started. The battery seemed like it was really trying hard to turn the car over, but it eventually started. Once it started it made a really loud clacking noise. I drove it about a block and it quit again. (I probably shouldn't have even driven it:confused:) From that point on I could not get it started again, so I had it towed to my house. I was able to get it started again and took some video of what it sounds like. Any ideas that could get me going in the right direction are greatly appreciated. Oh yeah, it doesn't eat oil and the oil level is still full. The turbo was replaced by a Subaru dealership shortly before I got the car, around 66K. The car now has ~75k Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mdzowner Posted April 13, 2013 Share Posted April 13, 2013 uh well not to be captain obvious but thats not good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xplosivo1 Posted April 13, 2013 Author Share Posted April 13, 2013 Nope...hopefully someone can point me in the right direction of where to start. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted April 13, 2013 Share Posted April 13, 2013 Take that useless POS plastic cover off the engine and throw that POS away. Now that you can see things. Check the tensioners on the drive belts. Check the crank shaft pulley, make sure it is not loose. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HAMMER DOWN Posted April 13, 2013 Share Posted April 13, 2013 And, then pull the timing belt covers off. Check for belt rubbings, all the idlers & timing belt tensioner. Mileage:331487 Retired/Sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shello007 Posted April 13, 2013 Share Posted April 13, 2013 Take that useless POS plastic cover off the engine and throw that POS away. Now that you can see things. Check the tensioners on the drive belts. Check the crank shaft pulley, make sure it is not loose. MaxCap, this isn't the first time, but it seems like the sight of the word "engine cover" infuriates you. LOL. I see it that you think this is the most useless piece of equipment Subaru can put on a car. Now, you've got me scared to mention that I passed on a IPR intercooler because I wanted to retain the looks of my engine bay with the engine cover...and didn't want to go through the hassle of modifying it...because I totally Love the engine cover....So I wont tell you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xplosivo1 Posted April 13, 2013 Author Share Posted April 13, 2013 Sounds good, I'll do that first thing tomorrow and report back with results and pics. Thanks for the quick response. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BX77 Posted April 13, 2013 Share Posted April 13, 2013 hade a similar sound then the motor went, sorry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xplosivo1 Posted April 13, 2013 Author Share Posted April 13, 2013 hade a similar sound then the motor went, sorry That's honestly what I am afraid of, but on a positive note it will give me an excuse to upgrade the internals. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BX77 Posted April 13, 2013 Share Posted April 13, 2013 yeah but when my car started to make that noise I didn't have time to make a video, it just went, flap, flappy, flapped, flappy, boom, silence, lights flashing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted April 13, 2013 Share Posted April 13, 2013 MaxCap, this isn't the first time, but it seems like the sight of the word "engine cover" infuriates you. LOL. I see it that you think this is the most useless piece of equipment Subaru can put on a car. Now, you've got me scared to mention that I passed on a IPR intercooler because I wanted to retain the looks of my engine bay with the engine cover...and didn't want to go through the hassle of modifying it...because I totally Love the engine cover....So I wont tell you. To me It's much more important to be able to see any potential problems before they start. I feel it's more of a marketing thing. If they can't see a possible problem, they will wait until it gets really bad and then bring the car into the dealership to fix. The longer the problem exist, the more money we can make on repairs. if it was just for the tmic a much smaller piece would have worked. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heiche Posted April 13, 2013 Share Posted April 13, 2013 wow - bad noises. it almost sounds like the flywheel bolts have loosened, although i don't think that would be a common thing. maybe if the above things don't pan out you could take a peek? BtSsm - Android app/Bluetooth adapter. LV, logging, gauges and more. For 05-14 Legacy (GT, 2.5, 3.0, 3.6), 02-14 WRX, 04-14 STi, 04-14 FXT, 05-09 OBXT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators BarManBean Posted April 13, 2013 Moderators Share Posted April 13, 2013 The engine cover should not be tossed as it guides air into the TMIC. Come on, Byron--you know that. It's not just for the TMIC, and yes it could be modified, but it literally takes 10 seconds to remove to "check for issues" "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators BarManBean Posted April 13, 2013 Moderators Share Posted April 13, 2013 OP: you have several chickens in your engine, please remove them. "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robinlsb Posted April 13, 2013 Share Posted April 13, 2013 Rod bearing shot/spun:mad: "Belief does not make truth. Evidence makes truth. And belief does not make evidence." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xplosivo1 Posted April 13, 2013 Author Share Posted April 13, 2013 Well, I took off the belts and exercised the main pully with a breaker bar, there was nothing obvious and everything moves smoothly. I turned the key again and the chickens are still there...I wonder if Colonel Sanders would be interested. At this point it looks like the Subi will be out of commission for a while, I don't have the time or the experience for this in depth of a problem. Can anyone recommend a good mechanic in the Antelope Valley/Bakersfield, CA area? I have heard the dealerships around here are subpar and willing to take you for everything including the lint in your pockets. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xplosivo1 Posted April 13, 2013 Author Share Posted April 13, 2013 Rod bearing shot/spun:mad: I think you're right... After educating myself I am guessing it all started when the turbo went bad. I could be way off base, but from what I've been reading it there is any oil starvation it causes the bearings to overheat and expand which loosens the tolerance. Overtime the looser tolerance cuases it to beat itself up. The previous owner of the car had to have the turbo replaced because the banjo bolt filters clogged and it starved. Ever since I bought the car there was a slight knock at cruising RPM. I never heard other than cruising 65-70 on the freeway, I couldn't duplicate it any other way. I just assumed it was a resonance that occurred at that specific speed/rpm combination. My only guess is that when the turbo starved it also caused an overheat condition at the bearing and over time just got worse... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwiener2 Posted April 13, 2013 Share Posted April 13, 2013 You have severe rod knock plus some other bad noises. Price out a used longblock, it'll be cheaper in the long run. My Mods List (Updated 8/22/17) 2005 Outback FMT Running on Electrons Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xplosivo1 Posted April 14, 2013 Author Share Posted April 14, 2013 You have severe rod knock plus some other bad noises. Price out a used longblock, it'll be cheaper in the long run. Thanks for the advice, I've been looking online but haven't had much luck. Do you have any recommendations on where else to look? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheBlackPearl Posted April 14, 2013 Share Posted April 14, 2013 Did you ever see that PhoenixLegacy guy that was selling long blocks for super cheap? I think he ended up getting vendor status. I'll go look. Yeah looks like it, worth a look... http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/sti-2-5l-turb0-engine-sale-197839.html?p=4384636#post4384636 I beleive he does alot of sti(dual avcs) motors so those don't drop in IIRC. Self proclaimed PNW Craiglist find of the day Champion, April 2014. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xplosivo1 Posted April 28, 2013 Author Share Posted April 28, 2013 You have severe rod knock plus some other bad noises. Price out a used longblock, it'll be cheaper in the long run. I haven't yet pulled my motor to see what is going on, but am ready to get things moving. Can you tell me why I should be looking for a long block vs a short block. There are so many companies that sell shortblocks, but almost none that sell longblocks. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cainnibl Posted April 28, 2013 Share Posted April 28, 2013 My employers firewall wont let me watch youtube but by the sounds of things I'd agree you prob have internal issues. Drain the oil and ispect it for glitter (may want to cut open the oil filter too).... you may have vampire chickens from the movie twilight.... either that or you've pooched your bearings or worse. Short block should be fine as long as the pistons havent hit the valves or any debris hit hte head. With a short block you'll have to swap the heads and stuff. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xplosivo1 Posted May 3, 2013 Author Share Posted May 3, 2013 Did you ever see that PhoenixLegacy guy that was selling long blocks for super cheap? I think he ended up getting vendor status. I'll go look. Yeah looks like it, worth a look... http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/sti-2-5l-turb0-engine-sale-197839.html?p=4384636#post4384636 I beleive he does alot of sti(dual avcs) motors so those don't drop in IIRC. Thanks for telling me about this, I talked to Joe a couple days ago and gave him a deposit. He said it will be a couple weeks until it's done... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwiener2 Posted May 3, 2013 Share Posted May 3, 2013 So did you actually get the car checked, or are you making expensive decisions based on what some guys on the internet said? My Mods List (Updated 8/22/17) 2005 Outback FMT Running on Electrons Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xplosivo1 Posted May 4, 2013 Author Share Posted May 4, 2013 So did you actually get the car checked, or are you making expensive decisions based on what some guys on the internet said? I guess it depends on what you mean by getting the car "checked." If you're asking if I pulled the motor and opened it up, the answer is no. I did however have a friend (who works as a mechanic for Ford...NOT Subaru) come and look at it. He is also confident it is something internal that would "more than likely" require a rebuild. So, I guess my answer is that I not only listened to some guys on the internet, but also a non-Subaru mechanic! If it's not the motor...well I guess I'll have a spare to build on! It's only money right? If you say it fast enough it doesn't sound like much at all Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.