Jump to content
LegacyGT.com

Front Wheel Bearing -- DIY Walkthrough


Recommended Posts

  • Replies 413
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

explain briefly for me; why would I want to try an STI or Tribeca hub over keeping my LGT?

 

You don't.

 

There have been a few who talk about doing a 5x114 conversion for the stronger hubs and wider wheel selection in that area. I've poked around at it because I have a couple sets of wheels from when I had an STi. I still might do it, but it will probably cost around $900 parts...that would include generic Legacy brake rotors being redrilled to 5x114 bolt pattern also.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...
So just to clarify the dealer will replace the rear bearing up to 100k on 05-06 legacy/outback but are the fronts only covered under 36k or 50k warranty? thanks in advance

 

Dave

 

Dude! I just replaced my rear wheel bearing, went on the forum to check for torque specs and saw this! So I called the dealer and sure enough, it's covered. I just pulled it apart, returned the part and made an appointment with subaru for tomorrow to fix it. Thanks!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...
  • 3 weeks later...
On the PDF

 

WARNING: Remove the wheel before loosening the axle

nut. Failure to follow this rule may damage the

wheel bearings.

 

Would be very sad to damage a damaged bearing your about to trash!

 

I have loosened a bunch of axle nuts, with the car on the ground then jacked it up and finish the job. Never had an issue.

 

I think they worry that some moron will remove the nut with the car on the ground.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Will be attempting this on the weekend for the rear but just a couple q's

 

-do I really need a slide hammer to get the hub out? even if its rusty?

-do I need to grease anything before/after?

-in addition to the axle nut and obviously bear/hub assb. do I need anything else?

-I've only got some basic hand tools will that be enough or are there any sort of specialized tools needed.

 

Thanks

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Completed the change this weekend and somethings to mention to all the DIYers.

 

-you WILL NEED the slide hammer/hub puller

-get someone to help you if possible (lining up the hub assembly for the 4 bolts can be tricky)

-you will need a 32mm socket for the axle nut

-breaker bars...longer the better

-pb blaster...get a can it will only help

-and all the other safety stuff (jack stands, wheel chock, etc)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

-you WILL NEED the slide hammer/hub puller

 

I cannot stress this enough. I went to town on my hub for about 5 hours with a heavy sledge hammer before I rented the slide hammer and FWD hub adapter. Let's just say the hammer didnt even BUDGE it; the slide hammer had it off in about 5 minutes. Dont waste your time thinking a hammer will do the trick...chances are, it won't.

On the search for a new DD...
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Iam_immigrant, how did it go? on a scale from 1 to 10 ( 10 being the hardest) how would you rate the job? how much experience do you have working on cars?

 

 

I don't have much experience but worked out nicely and it's pretty straight forward.

The job itself is not that hard (maybe a 3 or mild 4) but it was the rusty nuts/bolts that I had trouble with that took a lot of time. Especially the axle nut (torque spec is 177ft/lb).

 

Basically went down like this:

-loosen axle nut (not totally necessary step here but if you don't like doing when car is on stands do it now) I did it after taking wheel off cuz I couldn't get my centre caps off without messing them up.

-take the wheel off

-remove caliper (two bolts)

-remove axle nut (unlock with hammer and punch tool)

-remove rotor (remember to release hand brake)

-service manual says remove abs and speed sensor (the abs was ok but I sheared off the speed sensor bolt head but it was so rusted on there that it wasn't going anywhere so didn't bother to drill out and replace.)

-remove hub/bearing assembly bolts (4 of them, from the back...real biatch. I had to get under the car cuz it was awkward otherwise)

-pull hub/bearing assembly (you NEED the hub puller)

 

Then reassemble everything in reverse order, torque everything to spec, double then triple check and you're done.

Also don't forget to get a new axle nut ($5 from dealer).

 

I would set aside an entire day just in case. Hope this helps.

 

And another thing re:safety, someone said to me always place the wheel you took off just under the car in the section you are working on. This is just in case the jack and jack stands were to fail the car would hit the wheel and not crush you completely.

Edited by iam_immigrant
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...
I cannot stress this enough. I went to town on my hub for about 5 hours with a heavy sledge hammer before I rented the slide hammer and FWD hub adapter. Let's just say the hammer didnt even BUDGE it; the slide hammer had it off in about 5 minutes. Dont waste your time thinking a hammer will do the trick...chances are, it won't.

 

i can't agree with this enough, i helped a friend with their rear wheel hub/bearing assembly and wow...NEED the hub puller. i went to town on that piece for at least an hour before registering with this forum to find answers.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
In about an hour, I'm going to go get parts for fixing the driverside rear wheel bearing, you guys wouldn't happen to know what the torque specs are for a 94 legacy sedan, and and all the parts needed to 1 complete wheel bearing assembly, and also maybe a certain brand of parts?
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have Koni Yellows with Swift springs, but am still within the bumper-to-bumper warranty period. Do you think the dealer will try to void my warranty for the rear wheel bearings because of the modified suspension?

 

EDIT:

 

Saw this in another thread:

 

I had one dealership absolutely refuse to do a warranty replacement on a $50 wheel bearing at like 9k miles because of my aftermarket springs. A couple years later I had some service done at a different dealership, and when I picked up the car they told me, "btw, we noticed that 2 of your wheel bearings were bad, so we went ahead and replaced them under warranty."

http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=3112974&postcount=10

 

Guess it depends on the dealership. *crosses fingers*

Edited by SilverSeraphim
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I did my Front Drivers Side about 6 months ago and the hardest part was getting the caliber bracket off. A year or two ago the inspection shop put new rotors on and tightened the bracket bolts so tight that one of them broke. Other than that it was fairly easy.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Terms of Use