JoeFromPA Posted April 19, 2010 Share Posted April 19, 2010 One other oft overlooked part of bearing life is balanced wheels. Unbalanced wheels/tires, even a minor vibration, will beat the ever-loving snot out of a wheel bearing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2006Specb122 Posted April 19, 2010 Share Posted April 19, 2010 explain briefly for me; why would I want to try an STI or Tribeca hub over keeping my LGT? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2006Specb122 Posted April 19, 2010 Share Posted April 19, 2010 From the initial walkthrough....explain or show a picture of this... You can use two M8 bolts in your OEM rotors to "press" your rusty rotor off the hub.  And what is a slammer to remove the hub and where do I find one? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naimouasta Posted April 19, 2010 Share Posted April 19, 2010 slide hammer? you can borrow one at autozone. i advise against using it though. for me it pulled the hub out of the bearing and left the rest of the bearing assembly still in the spindle. pain in the ass. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2006Specb122 Posted April 19, 2010 Share Posted April 19, 2010 thanks for the warning...will stay clear of the slide hammer! pluss I think I have minimal rust...but haven't checked yet... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MeoW71 Posted April 20, 2010 Share Posted April 20, 2010 explain briefly for me; why would I want to try an STI or Tribeca hub over keeping my LGT? You don't.  There have been a few who talk about doing a 5x114 conversion for the stronger hubs and wider wheel selection in that area. I've poked around at it because I have a couple sets of wheels from when I had an STi. I still might do it, but it will probably cost around $900 parts...that would include generic Legacy brake rotors being redrilled to 5x114 bolt pattern also. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2006Specb122 Posted April 21, 2010 Share Posted April 21, 2010 re-drilling regular LGT brake rotors to match the pattern... new hubs that are stronger and allow for wider wheels..... no thanks.... I appreciate the explanation.... I've got plenty to do without getting into hub swapping....  Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbotechnique Posted July 6, 2010 Share Posted July 6, 2010 So just to clarify the dealer will replace the rear bearing up to 100k on 05-06 legacy/outback but are the fronts only covered under 36k or 50k warranty? thanks in advance Dave Dude! I just replaced my rear wheel bearing, went on the forum to check for torque specs and saw this! So I called the dealer and sure enough, it's covered. I just pulled it apart, returned the part and made an appointment with subaru for tomorrow to fix it. Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cagefreak Posted August 19, 2010 Share Posted August 19, 2010 add another victim to this list, going to call Capitol Subaru tomorrow to see if i can get the reas covered under warranty. wish me luck!! lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
instantfury Posted September 8, 2010 Share Posted September 8, 2010 sub Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted September 10, 2010 Share Posted September 10, 2010 On the PDF WARNING: Remove the wheel before loosening the axle nut. Failure to follow this rule may damage the wheel bearings. Would be very sad to damage a damaged bearing your about to trash! I have loosened a bunch of axle nuts, with the car on the ground then jacked it up and finish the job. Never had an issue. I think they worry that some moron will remove the nut with the car on the ground. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it.  Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iam_immigrant Posted September 16, 2010 Share Posted September 16, 2010 Will be attempting this on the weekend for the rear but just a couple q's -do I really need a slide hammer to get the hub out? even if its rusty? -do I need to grease anything before/after? -in addition to the axle nut and obviously bear/hub assb. do I need anything else? -I've only got some basic hand tools will that be enough or are there any sort of specialized tools needed. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iam_immigrant Posted September 19, 2010 Share Posted September 19, 2010 Completed the change this weekend and somethings to mention to all the DIYers. -you WILL NEED the slide hammer/hub puller -get someone to help you if possible (lining up the hub assembly for the 4 bolts can be tricky) -you will need a 32mm socket for the axle nut -breaker bars...longer the better -pb blaster...get a can it will only help -and all the other safety stuff (jack stands, wheel chock, etc) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andreu Posted September 27, 2010 Share Posted September 27, 2010 Iam_immigrant, how did it go? on a scale from 1 to 10 ( 10 being the hardest) how would you rate the job? how much experience do you have working on cars? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boostin1657615274 Posted September 27, 2010 Share Posted September 27, 2010 -you WILL NEED the slide hammer/hub puller I cannot stress this enough. I went to town on my hub for about 5 hours with a heavy sledge hammer before I rented the slide hammer and FWD hub adapter. Let's just say the hammer didnt even BUDGE it; the slide hammer had it off in about 5 minutes. Dont waste your time thinking a hammer will do the trick...chances are, it won't. On the search for a new DD... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iam_immigrant Posted September 27, 2010 Share Posted September 27, 2010 (edited) Iam_immigrant, how did it go? on a scale from 1 to 10 ( 10 being the hardest) how would you rate the job? how much experience do you have working on cars?  I don't have much experience but worked out nicely and it's pretty straight forward. The job itself is not that hard (maybe a 3 or mild 4) but it was the rusty nuts/bolts that I had trouble with that took a lot of time. Especially the axle nut (torque spec is 177ft/lb). Basically went down like this: -loosen axle nut (not totally necessary step here but if you don't like doing when car is on stands do it now) I did it after taking wheel off cuz I couldn't get my centre caps off without messing them up. -take the wheel off -remove caliper (two bolts) -remove axle nut (unlock with hammer and punch tool) -remove rotor (remember to release hand brake) -service manual says remove abs and speed sensor (the abs was ok but I sheared off the speed sensor bolt head but it was so rusted on there that it wasn't going anywhere so didn't bother to drill out and replace.) -remove hub/bearing assembly bolts (4 of them, from the back...real biatch. I had to get under the car cuz it was awkward otherwise) -pull hub/bearing assembly (you NEED the hub puller) Then reassemble everything in reverse order, torque everything to spec, double then triple check and you're done. Also don't forget to get a new axle nut ($5 from dealer). I would set aside an entire day just in case. Hope this helps. And another thing re:safety, someone said to me always place the wheel you took off just under the car in the section you are working on. This is just in case the jack and jack stands were to fail the car would hit the wheel and not crush you completely. Edited September 27, 2010 by iam_immigrant Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slimjim2 Posted October 15, 2010 Share Posted October 15, 2010 just curious, does your legacy have more than 100,000 miles on it? Sounds like dealerships are covering this, I plan on getting this fixed within a week Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iam_immigrant Posted October 15, 2010 Share Posted October 15, 2010 If you're referring to me, then yes 180KM (~116K miles) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
instantfury Posted October 15, 2010 Share Posted October 15, 2010 131k. Did mine in 52 min. At hands on garage in Milwaukee. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
3rd party Posted October 17, 2010 Share Posted October 17, 2010 I cannot stress this enough. I went to town on my hub for about 5 hours with a heavy sledge hammer before I rented the slide hammer and FWD hub adapter. Let's just say the hammer didnt even BUDGE it; the slide hammer had it off in about 5 minutes. Dont waste your time thinking a hammer will do the trick...chances are, it won't. i can't agree with this enough, i helped a friend with their rear wheel hub/bearing assembly and wow...NEED the hub puller. i went to town on that piece for at least an hour before registering with this forum to find answers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
3rd party Posted October 17, 2010 Share Posted October 17, 2010 http://www.endwrench.com/current/Current6/03/WhBearRep.pdf i just thought i'd leave this here, for those who're interested Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chasing my tail Posted November 1, 2010 Share Posted November 1, 2010 In about an hour, I'm going to go get parts for fixing the driverside rear wheel bearing, you guys wouldn't happen to know what the torque specs are for a 94 legacy sedan, and and all the parts needed to 1 complete wheel bearing assembly, and also maybe a certain brand of parts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SilverSeraphim Posted November 2, 2010 Share Posted November 2, 2010 (edited) I have Koni Yellows with Swift springs, but am still within the bumper-to-bumper warranty period. Do you think the dealer will try to void my warranty for the rear wheel bearings because of the modified suspension? EDIT: Saw this in another thread: I had one dealership absolutely refuse to do a warranty replacement on a $50 wheel bearing at like 9k miles because of my aftermarket springs. A couple years later I had some service done at a different dealership, and when I picked up the car they told me, "btw, we noticed that 2 of your wheel bearings were bad, so we went ahead and replaced them under warranty." http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=3112974&postcount=10  Guess it depends on the dealership. *crosses fingers* Edited November 2, 2010 by SilverSeraphim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zcarmob Posted November 5, 2010 Share Posted November 5, 2010 I did my Front Drivers Side about 6 months ago and the hardest part was getting the caliber bracket off. A year or two ago the inspection shop put new rotors on and tightened the bracket bolts so tight that one of them broke. Other than that it was fairly easy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
instantfury Posted November 19, 2010 Share Posted November 19, 2010 damnit man, now my front passenger bearing is going.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now