Slave cylinder issue & question.

Hey guys . Tried finding a picture of the slave cylinder setup for an 05 legacy. Couldn't find any pictures that were, without a doubt, of an 05+. Not sure that It makes a difference anyways.

 

So here's my problem:

 

Clutch went to the floor and did not return the other day. Got it in my garage and found that the slave cylinder was not moving at all. Bought a new one and went to swap them out today. I noticed this extreme angle between the cylinder and the clutch fork, that it pushes on. I thought it looked way too steep. (I think it should be level with the cylinder) But then thought "maybe it just looks worse than it actually is". So I installed the new one. While bleeding the system, and getting some pressure on it, the rod popped out and ended up right where I started. With the clutch stuck at the floor again.

 

92.37% sure that I did the steps correctly. I'm almost positive that the angle to the fork is what's causing my issue.. I would like to know if this is correct thinking, and what could be causing such a huge angle..

 

Any help would be amazing.

 

Thanks!

 

PS: pictures are of the new one, after the rod popped out. This is exactly what the old one looked like when I started the "repair".

TOB fork fell off the pivot ball.

 

There have been a few of these that have cracked and do the same thing.

 

Sorry.

 

See if you can pull the rubber boot and look inside.

 

 

The piston must move in a straight line. Not a down ward angle.

If it fell off the pivot ball, wouldn't there be slop in the fork if I were to grab it? I grabbed it with some vice grips and couldn't get any movement.

 

If it's cracked, would it drop down like that and still be firm?

 

Also, If I put a stronger clutch in, should I have a stronger fork for the added pressure?

I'm still running the a OEM fork. I think I did buy a new one. I can't remember.

 

But back in 2011 when I put the tranny back in, the car wouldn't shift and the wheels spun while in netural while on the jack stands. Or something like that.

As I finished removing all the bolts to pull it back out in realized the slave cylinder piston was at a downward angle. I pulled the tranny and had it check out anyways, it was fine.

 

I put it back in, and made damn sure to check the piston travel before I bolted everything up. After making sure the fork was on the ball before installing the tranny. When I got the tranny matted to the block, I checking and sure enough the fork had dropped off the ball again. I did what I had to to get it back on the ball. It worked fine after that.

 

I don't recall what I had to do, but I kind of remember it was tight. Get a good light and look in there.

 

My thread about it is on here somewhere.

Thanks. Ill search for that thread... I pulled the boot off last night. But couldnt get a good angle to see in there. I grabbed a mirror and some small lights, to get down in there, from work. I want to avoid pulling the whole thing apart, if I can.

I tried to find the thread myself. I have no idea where it is.

 

My car was on jacks for 5 months in 2010. It's a long story.

 

If you remove the two bolts that hold the slave cylinder on you may have more room/play in the fork.

 

Don't break the fluid line loose just remove the two bolts.

Well... I already took the slave off, cause it broke... so I have plenty of moving room now.

The slave cylinder broke ? would you have lots of clutch fluid leaking ?

 

Any pictures ?

The pictures in the first post show the broken slave... It's not leaking too much. All the fluid it kinda held in the rubber boot on the slave, itself.

 

I was able to get a good view inside. Turns out the bolts, that mount the fork to the transmission, sheared off. So I have to drop the whole thing to fix it. The TOB doesn't look to be centered on the shaft, either. So I could have a whole lot more going on inside. I will get some pictures as I start taking things apart.

 

On the bright side, if I need a bunch of transmission work done, I was thinking this would be a good time for a 6speed swap. Is the 6 speed worth doing the work for?

The swap is lots of money. There is a sticky up top about it.

 

So your pivot ball broke ? There is just a couple of clips that hold the fork on the ball.

 

You may want to buy a new fork too, just in case its cracked are just because, cheap insurance.

 

Make sure you grease the starter shaft and grease the tranny snout where the TOB slides and the end of the input shaft where it goes into the polit bearing.

 

Will you be replacing the clutch too ?

 

While the tmic is off may be clean the grounds up there and over by the master cylinder.

 

Also wire brush the matting surface of the block and tranny, ground path.