06silvarubilLGT's Rebuild Thread

So as some of you know the motor in my LGT is on its way out. I had to move some finances around to make it happen, but I was able to put up enough money to get a Forged build done, and wanted to keep it documented and get some opinions. Im not building this thing for big numbers, not even putting a bigger turbo on it at first. So keep that in mind, its just a "stronger than stock" build. The VF40 that's on the car has only 35k on it at this point so Im gunna stay with it, unless I find and issue with it upon removal. Biggest turbo Id probably ever run is an 18G-ish due to the 5EAT, but that's later if ever. And of course I do have a budget so have to keep that in mind.

First off I would like to thank any vendor that has assisted me in the process, Ive not ordered anything yet, so you all will receive a portion of business in the next few weeks.

I going to be pulling the long-block myself, and sending everything to a local machine shop to be bored/spec'd/assembled

 

Short Block- Have

Forged Wiseco Pistons- Have

Nitride Crank- Have

Manley Rods- Have

ARP Headstuds- Have

10mm Oil Pump-

Moroso Oil Pickup- Have

OE HeadGasket

Gates Timing Kit

Remove Banjo Filters

Filtered Turbo Oil Feed- Already installed

Perrin LWCP- Have

ACL Bearings

TIC FU Bolts- Have

 

Heads:

Standard Refresh (with any needed replacement parts)

3 Angle Valve Job

 

Fuel:

STi Fuel Pump Control Module- Have

Walbro or DW Fuel Pump (if bigger turbo goes its way)

 

Intake

Its Me FMIC- Have

Typhoon Intake- Have

Forge BPV- Have

Top-feed Conversion w/TGV deleted- In Process

840cc Injectors- Have

STi Intake or N/A Intake Manifold- Have STi one, haven't decided which route I want to go

 

Turbo:

VF52- Have

 

 

Gauges:

Perrin Column Pod- Have

AEM WB- Have

ProSport Mech Boost Gauge- Have

ProSport Oil Pressure- Have

 

Maybe's:

Perrin Turbo Inlet

PnP Headers

 

Trans:

Hayden External Cooler (already installed)

Derale Fluid T-stat for Trans (waiting for install)

Hexmods VB-

Rallitek Comfort Insert- Ordered

AP Pitch Mount- Ordered

 

So at this point please post any useful suggestions or additions to my list.

 

Also since its the 5EAT, is it a pain to get A/T separated from the engine? All the subies Ive ownd were MT.

Thanks guys, enjoy the coming story and pics..

I don't recall having any issues separating the engine from the transmission on my wife's OBS (although it is a 4EAT). Just make sure to unbolt the torque converter (remove bolt, rotate engine, repeat) before trying to separate the engine from the transmission. It appears you have a sound build. Which brand bearings will be used, ACL, King or OEM?

consider the vb upgrade from hexmods on that 5eat.

IMO, if you're going to stick with a 18g, then you don't need forged pistons. But even if you do go forged, I would highly consider 4032 alloy instead of 2618.

consider the vb upgrade from hexmods on that 5eat.

 

If its sees a bigger snail I most definitely will. Thx

Rhino ACL

 

MD, can you teach me in a nut shell why?

http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x40/92Si/worthless.gif

 

 

 

Subbed for knowledge.

Are you removing both banjo filters ?

Yes and filtered oil feed.. thx max

Was thinking of going with a divorced Shorty DP, if I do, the WB would have to go into the pipe after they meet up again correct?

As far as Pistons Coated Skirts and domes or just skirts?

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

These are pretty.. not sure which way to go

b/c I already had the CBE customized to remove the 2nd cat.. so it would be another trip to exhaust shop to get something like regular length CNT..

I vote for skirts only.

 

why... not race car.

 

 

But then again, why in the first place?

 

 

Have you asked the machine shop the same question ?

I emailed them earlier this morning actually.. waiting on response.. they don't seem to internet savvy over there, insist on me calling, but Id like to have all the stuff written down and saved so Im waiting..

First new addition.. hoping it may help with the stalling since the end tanks are separating on mine.. time will tell:confused:

Installed IPR on sat.. What a bitch.. I understand the statement "bolt on" may need some modification, wiggling, adjustement to fit, but 2 hrs to install, and its still crooked and wasn't easy getting it to line up.. I have the 5EAT so it wasn't even the master getting in the way..

Anyone, going to be going FMIC after the build, this thing would not be easily worked on if something happened on the road/track/anywhwere but in the garage..

 

After install car seems to be running smoother at higher RPMS, but still wanted to stall a few times Saturday and then again this morning, boost leak test tomorrow..

Did you get a tune/map for the tmic ?

 

I think your going to want to do that before you give it to much throttle.

 

Your flowing more air now.

I have not tuned it Max.. I was pretty much throwing it on there to see if the OE TMIC was leaking enough to cause my stalling issue.. It hasn't cured the stalling, seems to have helped. It definitely feels better over 4k.. I just ran it hard yesterday to make sure the hoses wouldn't blow off.. limping it around until I do leak test tomorrow, thanks to xt2005bonbon, I may just have to do a vacuum test to determine how to proceed with the leak test..

Performed Vacuum test, found that its either intake leak or idle adjustment.. Vehicle will never stall in N, only in D or Sport at slow speeds with brake or steering load activated.. I know the idle is set through the throttle body and ecm.. Anyone ever have a bad throttle body?

Ok, just to catch up, this is the new engine set up that is stalling ?

 

Did you use the new larger orange o-rings under the intake manifold ?

 

You have not had the car tuned yet ?

 

Get it to a Tuner.

 

 

I don't believe anyone has ever had a TB issue. I did not touch mine during the rebuild last May, the same oem o-ring is in there. I do have a new one from the gasket kit, if you need.

This is still the original engine stalling.. I did the o-ring fix for fuel smell about 2 months ago. Trying to make sure I don't have some other problem lurking before I get into rebuilding engine. I have not had car to the tuner. Its on cobb stg1 map.

At this point its boost leak test tomorrow, maybe stop in and talk to the Master tech @ local Subi dealer.

The idle is drastically different in NvsD, which makes me think throttle body isn't compensating, therefore when a load is placed in the system it stalls..

Car never stalls at idle in N or P. If compression was the issue wouldn't it stall in N and P?

I have not tuned it Max.. I was pretty much throwing it on there to see if the OE TMIC was leaking enough to cause my stalling issue.. It hasn't cured the stalling, seems to have helped. It definitely feels better over 4k.. I just ran it hard yesterday to make sure the hoses wouldn't blow off.. limping it around until I do leak test tomorrow, thanks to xt2005bonbon, I may just have to do a vacuum test to determine how to proceed with the leak test..

 

 

It seems to be acting like both number 1&5 in the chart.. Starts low, got slightly lower as it warmed, but needle looked like it was having a seizure, small fluctuations constantly bouncing between 50-54

 

Did carb cleaner test (I know its not great) and idle did not change. Didn't have time to hook up the scan tool to watch the O2s, might have a chance later, short lunch break today..

I was using a problem finding program called carquest direct hits, and found my exact problem and resolution was throttle body replacement.. hmmm...