Cylinder misfires or bad injectors, please post here.

Im in the same boat, 2005 LGT, cylinder 2 misfire, shakey idol, runs great otherwise. It hasn't ever stalled out while idling but gotten pretty close. after reading the first half of this thread and getting depressed cuz it could be lots of stuff and lots of moneys to fix, I think ill start at the recommended troubleshoot step of swapping injectors to see if the code follows. if it does, ill need a new injector and I'm wondering if anyone knows a good place to get them? The Denso W0133 came up first on a google search, but it looks quite different from the yellow top one recommended by Autozone. (and 75 bucks cheeper)

and so begins my saga

Im in the same boat, 2005 LGT, cylinder 2 misfire, shakey idol, runs great otherwise. It hasn't ever stalled out while idling but gotten pretty close. after reading the first half of this thread and getting depressed cuz it could be lots of stuff and lots of moneys to fix, I think ill start at the recommended troubleshoot step of swapping injectors to see if the code follows. if it does, ill need a new injector and I'm wondering if anyone knows a good place to get them? The Denso W0133 came up first on a google search, but it looks quite different from the yellow top one recommended by Autozone. (and 75 bucks cheeper)

 

and so begins my saga

Good luck, I hope it doesn't hit your wallet as hard as it hit me... One thing that I noticed is that as the temp went up outside, the CEL was on more often because my valves were sticking open more often. I'm not sure if the temp and the valves sticking are related, but even now after the valve job, I am noticing a backfire upon shifting when the temp outside is higher. I will be taking it back in to see what they think in the next few weeks.

I've had P0303 twice, and twice it was the injector.

First instance; shaky idle and erratic acceleration(power would feel like it cuts on and off).

Second instance, about a year later, shaky idle(though didn't shake as bad as before), complete lack of power, and I don't know if it did this before but noticeable drop in fuel economy when cruising.

i just got this car just put 1000k on it already and the car idles oh so smooth and drives like it should its all stock. then suddenly start idling rough one day and throws a P0303 i made it home short shifting at 2k i was only like 4 miles away.

The next day car turns on fine and is driving normal again. I ordered new oem spark plugs put them on a couple days later and found the coil plug for cyl 3 is cracked. So i ordered a new one on ebay. meanwhile car is driving good still with new plugs idling even smoother id say. then next day again flashing CEl while driving pull over same code let car sit for a while erase code turn it back on cars back to idling smooth. and driving normal did it twice in the 4 days took the plug to arrive so I get back in there replace the harness connector and rotate the coil packs from 1 and 3....

car drives perfectly fine for a day then next day back again started idling a little rough and got worse but no CEL pluggled in scanner and had P0303 pending again. same cylinder parked car hours later get back in it and its driving back to normal.....

this weekends plan is to rotate Injector any other ideas what it could be since its so inconsistent?

Try moving the coil pack first. It's cleaner and easier than the injector.

I moved the coil packs when I changed spark plugs. I just rotated injector 1 and 3 and now its barely turning on and not idling shuts off i got p0301 as pending not the flashing cel but its bad im not driving it like this.

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Thought I'd update my experience with the CEL and code 0301:

After living with it for 5 years or more, I finally got around to changing the fuel injector on cylinder 1, with a cheap aftermarket OEM clone I bought on eBay.

Keep in mind my symptoms were mild - a misfire at idle speeds, but nothing horrible. The biggest issue was the CEL always being on, and consequently not being able to use the cruise control.

However, it works great now! I have put over 6000 miles (10,000 km) on the car since the swap, and it runs and idles smoothly, always. I would say that fuel economy is better now, too - however, that could be simply a result of using cruise control now.

So in my case, the coil pack was NOT the issue; rather the injector itself.

Very easy to change yourself, so don't hesitate to try it.

I wish I had done it years ago, but clearly it wasn't a huge issue on my car.

Good luck!

Well, if now the CEL has moved to cylinder 1, then your fuel injector from 3 may be bad then (since the latter has moved to cylinder 1)?

yes ive parked the car since and waiting for some injectors I found on ebay. hopefully that solves it. im thinking about getting my injectors cleaned any place local to me in Boston, MA?

I have an 08 Spec B with 109k I have slight miss at idle that appears semi random. Will idle ruff at around 700-800 rpm this seems more consistent at first start up, after driving it will appear randomly at stop lights

Threw CEL with missfire codes (banks 2/4 if memory serves). Tried Seafoam treatment and that seemed to really clear things up for a couple days but then the ruff idle came back.

I am having the injectors replaced today (just going stock) and I am hoping for the best!

I have an 08 Spec B with 109k I have slight miss at idle that appears semi random. Will idle ruff at around 700-800 rpm this seems more consistent at first start up, after driving it will appear randomly at stop lights

 

Threw CEL with missfire codes (banks 2/4 if memory serves). Tried Seafoam treatment and that seemed to really clear things up for a couple days but then the ruff idle came back.

 

I am having the injectors replaced today (just going stock) and I am hoping for the best!

I don't think you followed an appropriate diagnostic procedure, but hopefully that fixes it.

I would recommend you check the plugs first, then swap coil packs, then swap injectors to see if the problem follows the pack/injector.

I would recommend you check the plugs first, then swap coil packs, then swap injectors to see if the problem follows the pack/injector.

+1.

If none of the above fixes it, time for a compression/leak down test.

I replaced my injector with another used one from ebay cars idling good now and no CEL im still a bit paranoid. Where can I get injectors cleaned around MA? And I want to do a compression test also for some peace of mind...

I've seen some guys on the forum using services from http://www.deatschwerks.com/ . I may send mine to them as well.

I got a P0303 about 2.5 weeks ago. Cleared the code. I looked around my engine, and found my turbo inlet hose was not looking good. The clamp had worn through part of it, but it was still snugly on the turbo. I had Agile Auto replace it with a Perrin silicone inlet last Thursday, the 19th.

The code had stayed off until I was leaving work to go to Agile. This time the CEL was P0302 and P0303. They did the install, reset the ecu, and I'm hoping I'm good to go.

Thanks for the input,

Talked to the shop today. They are going to replace injectors and intake manifold gaskets. I am up in NH and read they can be trouble in cold climates.

They are also going to double check coils and do a compression test.

Keep fingers crossed I don't have to pull the heads and rebuild.

I had NGK plugs put in when I first noticed the slight rough idle.

You do know they didn't make many of your car ? one year, about 1500 cars.

My wagon is 1 of 108 made.

We need to know more info, mileage, is it Tuned ?

Injectors are easy to swap. Coils a little harder. Take it one step at a time.

Its a limited w/150k, no tune and all stock except I upgraded the crank pulley when that went a couple months ago. Among other things it also has a new clutch w/in the last 6 months.

I was going to start with the injectors, since like you said they are easy..

My car exhibited these symptoms when I was on a stock tune, and since moving to a tune using a different ECU revision I don't get the codes anymore. However the misfires can still be felt at idle. Hopefully going to solve this while I simultaneously attempt to resolve the A/C clutch not engaging when the engine is warm. (that problem sucks a lot more at the moment!)

My wagon is at 113K miles and 60K of them at stage 2, original turbo. So at least it has that going for it.

Update to the Spec B.

Range Automotive in Somersworth NH replaced the injectors and seals, cleaned the MAF new intake manifold gaskets and reset the ECU.

Had a cycle compression test done while the intake manifold was off, numbers were:

Cyl 1 - 140

Cyl 2 - 145

Cyl 3 - 130

Cyl 4 - 135

Range Automotive didn't seem to think that a rebuild was necessary with the compression test numbers.

Idle seems much better and no miss fire codes so far