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Which Battery to get?


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Too many saying Optima not worth the $$$$

 

Place It's sold, brand/model, CCA , Weight(lbs), Price

 

Sears, DieHard Platinum, 740, 50, $190

Sears, DieHard Gold, 640, 40, $100

 

AutoZone, Duracraft Gold, 640, 38, $101

 

Checkers, Exide Orbital, 700, ?, $175

Checkers, Exide Marathon, 690, 50, $110

 

 

 

 

Anything out there better for cheaper?

(Updated 8/22/17)

2005 Outback FMT

Running on Electrons

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Yeah, you should definitely be able to find a first class battery for under $100.

 

Interstate makes a great battery. Walmart also stocks a high quality battery for some discounted prices.

 

if the previous poster is right about a 28 pound battery from sears for $80, that's a very nice deal and some significant weight savings in the car.

 

Joe

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Also, the CCA rating is pretty much meaningless.

 

 

 

unless you live somewhere where it actaully drops below freezing regularly

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I'm looking for a bit more oomph than the stock battery. I only get about 2 hours of low volume music before the battery is drained to the point where it can't start the car.

(Updated 8/22/17)

2005 Outback FMT

Running on Electrons

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CCA definitely matter.

 

Just ask the people who lose all their pre-sets/memory due to battery drain during the cold months.

 

I went with a Diehard Gold, and I still had issues during the cold months with reliability. The only fortunate thing is I just kept bringing it back and getting a new one every season because of the guarantee.

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Yeah, you should definitely be able to find a first class battery for under $100.

 

Interstate makes a great battery. Walmart also stocks a high quality battery for some discounted prices.

 

if the previous poster is right about a 28 pound battery from sears for $80, that's a very nice deal and some significant weight savings in the car.

 

Joe

 

 

i am right about the battery. i work at sears its the battery group that fits most hondas.

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I'm looking for a bit more oomph than the stock battery. I only get about 2 hours of low volume music before the battery is drained to the point where it can't start the car.

 

you should put a charger on it while you're working on your stereo.

2A should be plenty, let it charge over night.

 

you're going to prematurely kill you regular car battery because it's not

designed to deep cycle. from my experience a battery that was

drained to a point it can't start a car only charges up to about 80%

next time, then 65%, then less than 50%, then a few more cycles and

it wont charge much at all. it appears if you keep a constant voltage

and amps charging it, it keeps the battery 'awake' and allows to

recharge to full again.

 

i use a Deltran battery tender on my hobby cars and it does well

to detect drain and recharge to float automatically. you can monitor

the status via the LED. it's only like $30 at amazon. i can play my

car's stereo for 1hr+ late in the evening and it'll be recharged again

by morning.

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Yeah, if you care about battery life and it's ability to crank after a long session of accessory power, then get the biggest battery you can....like a platinum or a big-ass interstate :)

 

Joe

 

P.s. I'll probably get that 28 pound one, as long as it has adequate capacity, because I'd love loosing 20 pounds in the front left of the car.

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AutoZone Gold for $80ish. Great battery with an 8 year warranty. If for any reason it fails you bring it into any autozone and they will lookup your phone number (no receipt needed) and swap you a new one.
enough zip ties and duct tape will fix anything.
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AutoZone Gold for $80ish. Great battery with an 8 year warranty. If for any reason it fails you bring it into any autozone and they will lookup your phone number (no receipt needed) and swap you a new one.

Autozone will probably get my business again because of how easy the swap was in my last car and how well the battery performed... cheap too.

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  • 2 months later...
  • 2 weeks later...

I mail ordered the Deka ETX16L (all weather version) which is the exact same as the Braille "All-Season" at half the cost. It even came with free shipping. The only thing I had to do was source the brass posts.

I got mine here: http://products.kylealbright.com/product_info.php/cPath/31/products_id/34?osCsid=d0de851669054cb61382181df7ea081b

Get the brass connector posts here: http://www.odysseybatteries.com/accessories.htm scroll down to "SAE Automotive Terminals". Sorry, I don't remember the price.

In the end, it dropped 20lbs off the front of the car in 10 minutes and it has been perfect for 18 months now. I could feel the difference on turn-in immediately.

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You shouldn't downplay how dramatic moving battery weight can be. It is in front of the axle and high off the ground. In a car otherwise which most of it's forward-mass having a low center of gravity (thank you Boxer engine), dropping 20 pounds in front of the front axle and several feet off the ground would make a noticeable improvement in the polar moment of inertia (i.e. transitioning).

 

Track - That's good info for a mid-weight battery (i.e. 20 pounds off stock means it's still durable year round). I'm interested in dropping my battery weight when the time comes, but I definitely want year-round capability. Where are you located?

 

Joe

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