A bit of advice pertaining to Rallitek kit.

I recently purchased a 2005 Subaru Legacy GT

Moved from an Audi s4....to many $German$ problems

I have around 6500 to spend on modifying my engine and was wondering if I could slap the-

RalliTEK Stage3 'Ultimate' 05-06 Legacy

http://www.rallitek.com/letu20.html

-on along with injectors, exhaust headers back and an access port ? Would this be adequate as a daily driver or would more have to be done ?

Obviously the power train would have to be tampered with eventually for an upgraded clutch is a must I believe.

I am quite uneducated on forced induction for I moved from a naturally aspirated 4.2 v8

Any guidance or advice would be great.

Thanks,

Chris

Injectors are included with the Rallitek Stage 3 kit.

IMO, that is a very nice kit, but you can get similar/better results with much less money spent. After you factor in a turbo-back exhaust and AccessPORT, you are looking at nearly maxing that $6K budget.

Are you planning to switch to E85?

If not, then I suspect that the "stage 3 standard" will give you the same power (or close to it) for less money. Both the standard and ultimate kits run 20psi on pump gas.

You'll need an up-pipe and down-pipe at least. Headers-back (UP, DP, midpipe, y-pipe, mufflers) would be even better, but also louder. You could do the UP+DP first and only do the rest as a separate step if you decide that you want a little more power and noise. You could also add the FMIC later and sell the TMIC, if you later decide that the relatively small increase is worth the relatively large expense.

I have seen alot of talk pertaining to e85?

Is this a big topic in the forced induction world ? Also how do you control the psi without a boost controller or some type of celluloid. I know it has to do with the waste gate spring ? Correct me if I am wrong.

could someone perhaps explain how boost is controlled ? Also what boost is a stock legacy set at ?

Detonation generally prevents Subarus from getting the maximum potential power, and E85 has high octane (read: high resistance to detonation). That makes it pretty attractive. It has a bit of a dollars-per-mile advantage though I don't think it's very much. Also may be attractive or repulsive for political reasons - you're not giving money to the middle east, but ethanol in the US is subsidized by the federal government (your taxes help make it cheap whether you run it or not).

The wastegate is basically a valve that lets exhaust flow from the UP to the DP without going through the turbine. The wastegate spring in our cars allows about 12psi peak boost and 10psi at redline with a catless UP and high-flow-cat (I never investigated this with the stock exhaust). The ECU also controls a solenoid valve that uses compressor pressure to help hold the wastegate shut for higher boost. My car is running about 18.5psi peak and 11.5 or 12 at redline. There are tables that govern target boost and wastegate duty cycle (aka WGDC) (aka how much power the ECU supplies to the solenoid) at given throttle and RPM. The ECU will adjust WGDC from the values in the table to help to achieve to target boost, but it takes some work to get it dialed in.

Here's the stock boost target table:

http://i193.photobucket.com/albums/z151/Legacy_NSFW/Tuning/Stock05LgtBoostTargets.png

Thanks for the explanation of boost pressure and how everything works together.

That did clear alot up for me. Im assuming your running a catted down pipe ? What sort of ECU are you using ? A piggyback ?

Have you done any internal work on your engine ? Also if you have replaced the clutch/flywheel how much does this cost to get done if I have the parts for them to install ?

Thanks Alot for the information.

You can go opensource tune like the ones infamous1 offers http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=103997

My setup cost less then the AVO setup and I makes about the same power. I make 340whp on 91 cali gas and the main reason why people run e85 I make 371whp on e85. That is with the same boost targets just more timing. With my 20G w/EWG setup I hit 20 psi by @3300 rpms and 21 psi about 3800 rpms and the boost tapers to 20 psi at 7000 rpms.

To get the body motions under control I would go for the KW v.2 coil overs like I have or the Race comp coil overs. They firm up the ride but, are not harsh. More of a BMW firm ride also get the AVO or Speedpro lower control arm bushing. They really tighten the steering.

You should post where you live because other members may live close to you and could help you out. Members here are very friendly. Welcome and let me know if you have any questions. Bryan

Thanks for the explanation of boost pressure and how everything works together.

 

That did clear alot up for me. Im assuming your running a catted down pipe ? What sort of ECU are you using ? A piggyback ?

 

Have you done any internal work on your engine ? Also if you have replaced the clutch/flywheel how much does this cost to get done if I have the parts for them to install ?

 

Thanks Alot for the information.

I have Invidia's catted DP, stock ECU with tuning by EcuFlash and RomRaider (free software, $130ish cable).

I haven't done any internal work on the engine, and don't plan to for a while as the engine seems capable enough for 400whp at least, if the tune is good. I am tuning it myself and monitoring knock pretty thoroughly so I'm not too worried about blowing the motor up.

I haven't done a clutch/flywheel swap, can't help you there.

So is your car completely legal to run through emissions ?

I have a friend that says he has test pipes which is just a catless pipe Im assuming.

Also is this software more or less efficient than an access port ?

If i were to install a bigger turbo full exhaust along with bigger injectors would I have to get my car tuned ? Also is there a program that does tuning along with boost controlling ? Or is this impossible ?

Would I have to get a boost control solenoid to control boost ?

The reason I ask about this tune (dynocomp etc.) is because my friend has this apexi little square gadget that controls is fuel:air and he had it tuned.

What does getting a "tune" mean ? Is it any more than using a piggyback as you are ?

Sorry about the ridiculous questions as I am obviously quite uneducated on the FI topic.

Emissions requirements vary a lot depending on where you live. Removing an emissions device violates federal law so nobody ever does that (wink wink nudge nudge). In my area they just hook up to the OBD2 port and ask the computer if everything is in working order. I'm pretty sure the computer will say that everything is in working order, but I haven't actually been in for testing yet.

"Test pipe" or "race pipe" usually means catless exhaust. You can smell catless exhaust fumes so I'm guessing it would be hard to pass an emissions check anywhere that way. But lots of people run those, so I dunno for sure.

Cobb makes the AccessPort hardware ($700ish), and AccessTuner software to tune the ECU. Tactrix makes the OpenPort hardware ($130ish) and EcuFlash software. In both cases, the hardware pulls the ROM image from the ECU, and writes it back. The software edits the ROM image while it's on your PC. AccessTuner and RomRaider also allow you to log data from the ECU while you drive, which is helpful to diagnose issues and guide tuning decisions. The Cobb stuff adds some features which some people like - it would take a while to explain, but if you search for "ram tuning" and "Speed density" you'll probably find the details.

Yes, the mods you mention require tuning. The aforementioned hardware and software lets you change the tables that govern how the ECU does things (AFR, timing, and boost control are mostly what it's about), but adjusting those tables is a manual process. You can't just hook something up to your car and automatically get tuning for your modifications.

The stock boost control solenoid will be fine with the stock turbo, but upgraded solenoids are a moderately popular upgrade anyway, and more popular with big turbos. I've bought one myself, but haven't installed it yet.

With other cars, you need additional devices like the Apexi thing your friend has, but those are relatively rare with Subarus as the stock ECU is sophisticated enough to handle upgrades to 400+whp. You just need to edit the tables (or hire someone to do it) as I mentioned above. I am not using a piggyback, and few Subaru people do.

Here's some more background info:

http://www.romraider.com/Documentation/GettingStarted

http://www.romraider.com/Documentation/RomRaiderFAQ

http://www.romraider.com/Documentation/TuningFAQ

http://www.romraider.com/RomRaider/Articles

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1410201

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1626520

I'm not real fond of this last one as it jumps right into some math that isn't actually all that critical to understand, and definitely won't make sense without a good foundation first, so feel free to skip the math and just go back to it later if you want to understand in more detail. The order in which things are presented also seems kinda backward in a few places (advanced stuff first, foundations later) so consider reading it a few times to connect the dots. There is a bunch of good stuff in it though. Just read it last and be ready to read it more than once.

Thanks Alot NSFW !

That post really helped me understand a little more about the definitions of certain things. I just ordered the cable from tactrix. 150 is a lot better than 700 for the access port.

Thanks its me for the suggestions but I am leaning a little further towards the tein flex coil overs since they allow me to use the edfc. My dad had KW variant 2's on his gto they feel nice but anything helps the rough ride of an american car lol.

Ill get back to you guys on how the program works for me once I receive the cable via USPS

I dont really have a permanent place of residence since I am active duty USAF. I am in technical school in dallas. I reside in glendale arizona whenever I get some leave.