Valve Body Mods, Giant Leaps Forward!!!

I've never seen my ATF light come on even when my trans failed. However I got the joyful flashing cruise and sport light and it allowed only 1-3rd

Yeah that's about what happened to me. Bought an Actron PocketScan Plus for $60.00 that allowed me to clear the transmission codes (Cobb AP couldn't clear them). Then it would shift into all gears, but I had to drive it in manual mode and stay out of the nonexistent 4th and 5th gears.

I think too much torque (T/S VF's will do that) down low is even too much for the "static bind". I'm thinking its either the TCC or the clutch packs but sometimes giving it gas in D and very low RPM's I'm betting a bad shudder out of the tranny. I'm 90% sure its the lock up clutch in the TC though. it's never happened when the converter was at stall speed. (The motor boat effect)

 

I'm also wondering if the line pressure is insufficient at under 2200 RPM. (I don't know what RPM the 5EAT pump is supplying max pressure)

 

The other possibility is my tranny is no longer healthy but I have a feeling I'm going to find out in the very near future. I'm going to look into getting a modded torque converter with a HD lock up clutch. (Hopefully its an option and maybe the Nissan one will swap over)

I gave it a little more thought, and I think your TS turbo is making a lot of torque where stock does not, and the torque converter is only increasing the strain at those low RPMs. So you're hitting a part of the line pressure map that is de-tuned, and making a lot of torque on top of that, so much so a clutch pack is letting go thus causing a chatter. I'm fairly sure it's NOT the TCC causing any issue. That's my educated guess and I'm sticking to it. What valve body & transmission mods do you have?

I've never seen my ATF light come on even when my trans failed. However I got the joyful flashing cruise and sport light and it allowed only 1-3rd

Yeah that's about what happened to me. Bought an Actron PocketScan Plus for $60.00 that allowed me to clear the transmission codes (Cobb AP couldn't clear them). Then it would shift into all gears, but I had to drive it in manual mode and stay out of the nonexistent 4th and 5th gears.

For reference you are two of many with a burned out input clutch (what is used in 4th and 5th only).

You can clear TCU codes AND learning with a VagCom cable or Tactrix 1.3 or less, and a laptop with FreeSSM loaded. Pocket scan is a lot easier for wiping the codes via a soft reset. Conversely, the hard reset following a VB swap or trans rebuild or pretty much any major service requires the FreeSSM app or a trip to the dealer.

One of my clients just wrote me saying a TCU reset helped is rough shifting after an F1 install. I may start telling customers that it's a requirement.

Hmm,

 

I don't think it's the engine shuddering but that's something to look into. It feels like it's coming from the transmission. (and only when the converter is locked and the RPM's are under 2400) I'll see if I can get it to replicate the issue with the car locked in 3rd gear. (Happened to me twice in traffic rolling along at 25-30MPH) The whole car shakes violently. It scared the crap out of me the first time it happened.

It happened again today and I think one of the rear wheels is binding. (Passenger side, shaking is from the rear of the car) It happened coming from a stop making a left turn. Could be time for a new diff which is weird the oil was perfect with no particulate in it when I serviced it 10K ago. Fortunately the car is still under the 5Y/60K drivetrain until March 3. Problem is the issue is not replicable.

I might also try an ECU reset as it might be the VDC? Does the TCU also control the VDC?

i thought vdc was introduced for the gt in 08

Oops VTD.

Wrong acronym.

few quick questions not worth bothering you by phone about...

when on a hill, or when giving it a good amount of gas, more so on a hill i realize on my valve body with only about 100 miles on it trying to shift, like revving up on down, trying to shift to my assumption, is this because its still learning?

in fuel cut (waiting for my tuner to send me revised map for my fuel cut issue) why would it hit fuel cut like this

1. Fuel cut first try, 1st to 2nd.

2. Fuel cut 2nd try 2nd to 3rd, but NOT 1st to 2nd, 1st to 2nd shifted wonderfully and chirped on shift.

3 Fuel cut 3rd try, 2nd to 3rd

Why did it not hit fuel cut try number 2 on 1st to 2nd? Am i like, on the peak of hitting fuel cut and not hitting fuel cut, and/or could this possibly be it learning trying to fix this issue?

Thanks

Edit: also, my only other concern, when driving slowly, like out or into a parking lot, when shifting it shifts really roughly and hard, like so hard it will slide me forward in my seat, is this part of the learning or is there an issue, sorry i dont know much let alone what to expect on whats proper.

go in parking lot and keep turing while giving throttle. both ways and see if you can reproduce it.

I frequently get tire squeal from the rear doing this (doing u-turns, etc, although without too much throttle). Is that a sign of an impending problem?

Man, sometimes I wish I hadn't bought an AWD automatic turbo (all firsts for me - used to FWD manuals, one with a supercharger).. All this new stuff to learn and worry about..

if a rear wheel is squeeling its good sign the diff is messed up. jack up the car and play with it. it could also be the center diff that is super tight. so when you jack up the car with engine off or out of gear the rear wheels should turn independently from the fronts.

Can I jack up just the back half, if the rears should be independent, or not THAT independent?

What about the back wheels with respect to each other? If I turn one in one direction, should the other turn the same, the opposite, or not at all?

when on a hill, or when giving it a good amount of gas, more so on a hill i realize on my valve body with only about 100 miles on it trying to shift, like revving up on down, trying to shift to my assumption, is this because its still learning?

I don't know what you are trying to describe here.

in fuel cut (waiting for my tuner to send me revised map for my fuel cut issue) why would it hit fuel cut like this

 

1. Fuel cut first try, 1st to 2nd.

2. Fuel cut 2nd try 2nd to 3rd, but NOT 1st to 2nd, 1st to 2nd shifted wonderfully and chirped on shift.

3 Fuel cut 3rd try, 2nd to 3rd

I don't know why it does that on yours, but at this point I am concerned a little that your trans is not totally in good shape. I would bet that if you opened it up, you would find some worn content. Not a huge deal, but something to keep in mind since sooner or later you will have to deal with it.

Once you get the fuel cut raised, you will be fine.

Edit: also, my only other concern, when driving slowly, like out or into a parking lot, when shifting it shifts really roughly and hard, like so hard it will slide me forward in my seat, is this part of the learning or is there an issue, sorry i dont know much let alone what to expect on whats proper.

Step 1: Do a TCU reset.

Question: Is it only from one > two? Or two > three as well?

If the TCU reset and subsequent relearning does not change the behavior, then your trans is closer to the end than the beginning, and I may have to send you a slightly softer version that you can live with.

Keep in touch.

^ I found that a TCU reset is crucial after the VB install. I was experiencing a lot of strange things before my TCU was reset. When slowing down the trans would do funny things when shifting into first - sort of like the car didn't know what to do at that point. I was also one of those that was getting the 1 to 2 slam and, initially, a 5 to 4 slam (the 5 to 4 eventually smoothed out but the 1 to 2 never fixed itself). The 1 to 2 slam would occur in normal, sport and manual at very mild acceleration. It would rarely happen when cold but would always happen when the fluid was warm. It was the sort of shift that would snap your neck back and you'd expect to see parts in your rearview mirror. WOT shifts were always clean and crisp.

After my TCU reset at the dealer (<$60) the issues are gone. I noticed an immediate improvement when driving away from the dealer. Shifting is now quick and firm.

As you can see in this thread, ClimberD is a great vendor. He was always there whenever I had any questions.

is this hard and aggressive shifting due to valve body installation being hard on my transmission? it feels not good like the trans is over working itself, in other words should i stay away from driving it until i get this fixed as much as possible?

it seems be happening less and less each drive i take though... it started out to be inevitable on low rpm's, then it turned into like 50/50 of the time, now its like 35% of the time. weird.

^ I found that a TCU reset is crucial after the VB install. I was experiencing a lot of strange things before my TCU was reset. When slowing down the trans would do funny things when shifting into first - sort of like the car didn't know what to do at that point. I was also one of those that was getting the 1 to 2 slam and, initially, a 5 to 4 slam (the 5 to 4 eventually smoothed out but the 1 to 2 never fixed itself). The 1 to 2 slam would occur in normal, sport and manual at very mild acceleration. It would rarely happen when cold but would always happen when the fluid was warm. It was the sort of shift that would snap your neck back and you'd expect to see parts in your rearview mirror. WOT shifts were always clean and crisp.

 

After my TCU reset at the dealer (<$60) the issues are gone. I noticed an immediate improvement when driving away from the dealer. Shifting is now quick and firm.

 

As you can see in this thread, ClimberD is a great vendor. He was always there whenever I had any questions.

how long was it that the 5to4 smoothed itself out? i have only put about 100 miles tops on mine, and it seems to slowly be getting better... the 1-2 slam isnt as harsch as it first was.

i need to do both as in goto the dealership, and do the freessm?

anyway you could link me to a vagcom cable so i dont buy the wrong one. i posted a wtb thread cuz my friend said it would be like 100 bucks like a dumbass.

my only other and last question is, do i need the reset with the vagcom cable to be done at the same time as the dealer or can i go get the dealer in two days then do the other one later?

no, you are completely correct, the AP cannot do so...

thank you very much for your time! this helped me so much!!!

the only thing im still curious of is if this hard shifting is bad on my transmission because i dont think i'll be able to get to and do this for a few more days and i have some driving to do. i assume its not good for it, but how bad is it?

btw your avatar is awesome! LOL