Moderators BarManBean Posted May 30, 2014 Moderators Share Posted May 30, 2014 so how long does it take to get a BNR turbo? I tried to get in contact with them 2 days ago haven't heard back Just call the number on the website--Bryan will more than likely pick up the phone during business hours. "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HellShadow70 Posted June 16, 2014 Share Posted June 16, 2014 Soon! I Hope. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kzr750r1 Posted June 18, 2014 Share Posted June 18, 2014 Depends on what you want and if it's on the shelf already. I had mine in a few days since he had stock. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
odin2347 Posted June 26, 2014 Share Posted June 26, 2014 I went with a 6starspeed billet 18g. It's pretty sweet hitting boost around 3500rpm and pulls hard to redline Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moddiction Posted June 27, 2014 Share Posted June 27, 2014 ^how much did that run you? What hp are you making with it? WWW.MODDICTION.COM Moddiction Stainless steel and Titanium shift knobs. Drivetrain, suspension, brakes, exhaust, cooling, fuel, gauges+MUCH more! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
odin2347 Posted June 27, 2014 Share Posted June 27, 2014 ^how much did that run you? What hp are you making with it? It was around 950 I believe with shipping. Not sure about HP it hasn't been on a dyno still being E-tuned. I'm running it on stock fueling for now hitting 15 psi(should be about 17 psi when the tune is done) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Connor Posted June 28, 2014 Share Posted June 28, 2014 I ordered my BNR 18g on late Friday. He had it shipped out the next thursday by UPS. So it's a little over a week turn around time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
05LGTLtd Posted July 1, 2014 Share Posted July 1, 2014 (edited) It was around 950 I believe with shipping. Not sure about HP it hasn't been on a dyno still being E-tuned. I'm running it on stock fueling for now hitting 15 psi(should be about 17 psi when the tune is done) 17psi sounds low for an 18g??? I'm hitting 20-21psi on my BNR16g, running 650's Maybe comparing apples to oranges here, though. Edited July 1, 2014 by 05LGTLtd All I need now is a hill holder and a center passing light... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hadvw Posted July 1, 2014 Share Posted July 1, 2014 17psi sounds low for an 18g??? I'm hitting 20-21psi on my BNR16g, running 650's Maybe comparing apples to oranges here, though. Same here.. 20-21, bnr16g, 650s Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m sprank Posted July 1, 2014 Share Posted July 1, 2014 Boost pressure is not determined solely by the compressor used. Fuel, atmosphere, inter cooler, tuner and more also play a role. It would not be unusual for an 18g to be limited to 17psi. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
odin2347 Posted July 1, 2014 Share Posted July 1, 2014 I am hitting about 18 psi now that the tune is almost complete. I am using a process west clone top mount and 93 octane fuel. The limiting factor is my stock injectors. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m sprank Posted July 1, 2014 Share Posted July 1, 2014 Yes, with an 18g you really need larger injectors. Even the 18psi will only be brief. You will be tapering hard after 4800rpm. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
odin2347 Posted July 2, 2014 Share Posted July 2, 2014 Yes, with an 18g you really need larger injectors. Even the 18psi will only be brief. You will be tapering hard after 4800rpm. It's not tapering by much. Logs are showing 16.92 psi @ around 6000rpm(94% IDC) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
05LGTLtd Posted July 2, 2014 Share Posted July 2, 2014 I am hitting about 18 psi now that the tune is almost complete. I am using a process west clone top mount and 93 octane fuel. The limiting factor is my stock injectors. Did you upgrade the fuel pump? just curious. All I need now is a hill holder and a center passing light... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m sprank Posted July 2, 2014 Share Posted July 2, 2014 It's not tapering by much. Logs are showing 16.92 psi @ around 6000rpm(94% IDC) Care to share a log? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
odin2347 Posted July 2, 2014 Share Posted July 2, 2014 Care to share a log? https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B1FZoz-PmH4rSGQ1MFE1WEVQbFk/edit?usp=sharing here's one I took while still being tuned Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m sprank Posted July 2, 2014 Share Posted July 2, 2014 Well... the pull does not start until almost 4000rpm, the IDC is over 95% and there is almost no timing. That log tells us very little other than someone was really trying to stop a knock event (and it still happened at the end). I would love to see a log from 2000rpm-redline at WOT. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
odin2347 Posted July 2, 2014 Share Posted July 2, 2014 I don't see any knock in my logs. I would never go WOT at 2000rpm that just seems like a bad idea. Do you have a problem tuning people to 95% IDC? It never actually reaches 100 no matter what. Anyway, I had a stage 2 WRX that ran near 100% IDC for 2 years with no issue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators BarManBean Posted July 2, 2014 Moderators Share Posted July 2, 2014 I would never go WOT at 2000rpm that just seems like a bad idea. It's not a bad idea. It's often necessary for tuning. "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
odin2347 Posted July 2, 2014 Share Posted July 2, 2014 It's not a bad idea. It's often necessary for tuning. I see. Everytime my car has been tuned they usually logged idle, part throttle cruising and then like 3000rpm-redline. I guess i'm thinking of mashing on the gas while at low rpm in a higher gear Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m sprank Posted July 2, 2014 Share Posted July 2, 2014 2000rpm to redline is the norm. There is 2deg of timing pulled at the end of the run posted due to knock. We do not tune IDC beyond 93%. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blaqk Havok Posted December 2, 2014 Share Posted December 2, 2014 (edited) hey all new member with a fresh blown turbo (second one on the car) after looking as much as my eyeballs can take in, im in need of some pointers (not new to cars or Subarus, but this IS my first turbo car that i have owned my self, and after a week of VERY bad luck (unrelated to the car) i pick up my new car (05 LGT) and the turbo blew on the very first drive i took it on.. vehicle history has this being its second turbo, and less than 9 months old 8k miles on it (a cheap factory reman grrr) all other issues aside (will be doing a full top to bottom cleaning and inspection as well and addressing what i think is the cause, and not just band-aid it by just replacing the problem) i have been looking for a turbo replacment that will fit my criteria.. that being 1) stronger/better quality than the OEM VF40... 2) Direct drop in bolt up OEM like replacment and fitment 3) NO tuning REQUIRED when running just off the spring... safe/OK to run while staying off boost as much as posible untill i can get the tune done.. no need for imedieate supporting fuel delivery mods... 4) If im going to do this im going to do this right and give my self a bit of wiggle room.. from what i seen of this turbo it seems to fall flat on its face up top.. so looking for a turbo that will retain stock or better spool charictoristics, but breath a bit more up top. after all of the poking around it looks like the BNR VF40 EVO 16G is the right turbo for me... but im a bit fuzzy on some of the details... will this turbo in fact meet my criteria? i will be supporting it with the required filtered oil feed line supplement, and OCV replacments... also due to the fact that i will be doing a tear down of the complete intake track (up to the heads) to clean out as much of the small debris as posible, im thinking now would be a good time to get some TGV deletes and the Racer X FMIC, perrin inlet tube, and a silicone (firm) line for the PCV return hose... not only because of the turbo blowing up, but mainly because this a new car to me. i will be doing full maintanence on it as well/// plugs, full flush, full fluids... just putting that out there... one last thing i was not able to see an order page on the BNR site.. am i missing something? and does anyone know what the rate for the returned core? thank you all in advance almost forgot: 05 LGT 5EAT just under 130k lots of the big item maintanence was done before i got the car... only mod on the car is and Invidia catless DP <(edit for this info) Edited December 2, 2014 by Blaqk Havok Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated thefultonhow Posted December 2, 2014 I Donated Share Posted December 2, 2014 if you're going to run the 16G, install a boost gauge and stay out of boost. Also, whatever you do, you should worry more about debris in the oil than debris in the intake. Replace the oil cooler, and drop the oil pan to check for and clean out debris. Finally, remove or replace the banjo bolt filters. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nolmers06LGT Posted December 2, 2014 Share Posted December 2, 2014 +100000... And as much as you may want to avoid modifying the fuel system, a DW65c pump is an easy install and could potentially save your motor... provided you haven't circulated the turbo mess through the oil in the block. It's highly likely the second turbo blew because whomever did the first swap did not get the contaminated oil resolved. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m sprank Posted December 3, 2014 Share Posted December 3, 2014 First and foremost, its a 5EAT. Dont install a larger turbo without addressing the weakness of the transmission first. Valve body upgrade and a oil cooler at a minimum. Second, a 16g on stock fuel is a stage 1 tune. Waste of money. Buy a VF-40 CHRA ($350) and rebuild yourself if that is the case. Pass on the TGV deletes and the RacerX FMIC. TGV deletes are major overkill for a 16g. Will delay boost slightly and gain maybe 1-2whp at the top. RacerX FMIC, nuff said. Perrin inlet tube is not required and will require re-routing and plumbing of all vacuum lines that return to the inlet tube. It is not specific to your car. Silicone PVC return hose is your call. Not necessary, but your call. DW65c will not "save" your motor. It will decrease IDC by 1-2%. Thats it. If it aint broke... But, you do have the probable contamination in the block and oil cooler to deal with as well as some other possible gremlins. If its the second turbo in 8k miles, I would be prepared to pay handsomely to get it all straightened out now. Sorry to hear about your "new owner" troubles. Not how we want to get things "rolling" with a new Subie owner. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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