thestratomaster Posted June 19, 2015 Share Posted June 19, 2015 My car has had brake problems one way or another since day 1, and the symptoms sort of come and go. It's to the point that I have to do something about it because I'm very much fed up. The entire brake system was replaced in December '13 due to a similar problem. Both front calipers are dragging so significantly that above 55 mph the wheel shakes side to side pretty badly. The symptoms get worse the longer I drive, which makes sense as they are heating up constantly. About a week ago I pulled over to look and my front rotors were glowing red hot and smoking. Today I went for a short drive and hit the rotors with an infared pyro when I got back. LF: 700* F, RF: 450* F, LR and RR: 175* F. Seems a bit extreme to me for 5 miles of driving at around 50 mph and <5 50-20 stops. http://i57.tinypic.com/2cgecmr.jpg I've checked the front calipers and the slide pins weren't seized and I could get the calipers off the rotors, so I assume the pistons can't be all that seized either. Is there anything electrical (abs module or wheel speed sensor?) that could be attributing to this? If it's truly a mechanical issue with the calipers, I will be upgrading to Brembos. I don't feel 3 sets of calipers and 2 sets of rotors in 52k miles is in any way reasonable, it's not like I'm driving an exotic supercar. For reference, the parts replaced are as follows: -Centric Rebuilt Calipers (Front and rear) -Stoptech Cyroslotted rotors (front) -Goodridge stainless lines -Stop tech pads front -NAPA gold pads rear -Grimspeed MC brace If anyone has any ideas of what to check, or if they've had similar problems etc. please let me know! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fasemelta Posted June 19, 2015 Share Posted June 19, 2015 I'm no expert... but I've had my car for 8 months and had to replace the fronts 2 times now. 1 failed in less than 500 miles. . .all remanufactured. My pistons would always seize with no issue with the slide pins. Try using a c-clamp to compress the piston...if you have to use a decent amount of force its probably seized Beyond that it sounds like a brake master cylinder issue... any one else? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fasemelta Posted June 19, 2015 Share Posted June 19, 2015 Check for clogs ...check the calipers banjo bolts by having someone pump the brakes with the bolt removed off from the caliper. Also check and see if the brake lines are twisted from the interior wheel well. I'd watch driving it like that, you're really putting a lot of stress on the drivetrain braking and accelerating at the same time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thestratomaster Posted June 19, 2015 Author Share Posted June 19, 2015 Check for clogs ...check the calipers banjo bolts by having someone pump the brakes with the bolt removed off from the caliper. Also check and see if the brake lines are twisted from the interior wheel well. I'd watch driving it like that, you're really putting a lot of stress on the drivetrain braking and accelerating at the same time. Luckily my commute is only 4 miles with an average speed of about 35, so the issue doesn't show up all that prominently, but I agree. It's definitely gotten worse in the last week or so and I need to do something about it soon. I'm thinking it must be a seized piston. I just can't believe it's happened within about 5k miles of being replaced. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gto7419 Posted June 19, 2015 Share Posted June 19, 2015 I would say that there is debris in the system, destroying your new parts or you have a hydraulic component that is holding pressure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thestratomaster Posted June 19, 2015 Author Share Posted June 19, 2015 I flushed the system when putting the new brakes on, but it's certainly possible. I'm going to check and see if the for some reason the pads aren't sliding in the brackets freely. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
starionesir Posted June 19, 2015 Share Posted June 19, 2015 Could have a issue with the master cylinder. Has it ever been replaced? Has the abs ever activated driving normally? I had a jeep before have the abs act very odd because of excessive metal stuck to one of the wheel speed sensors. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thestratomaster Posted June 19, 2015 Author Share Posted June 19, 2015 Could have a issue with the master cylinder. Has it ever been replaced? Has the abs ever activated driving normally? I had a jeep before have the abs act very odd because of excessive metal stuck to one of the wheel speed sensors. Original MC, but again, car only has 52k miles. Abs does not kick in unless I really try to get it to Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fasemelta Posted June 19, 2015 Share Posted June 19, 2015 I flushed the system when putting the new brakes on, but it's certainly possible. I'm going to check and see if the for some reason the pads aren't sliding in the brackets freely. Did you let the cylinder get too low on fluid at any point during the flush? Could be air in the lines... If I were a bettin man...my money would be on seized pistons Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fasemelta Posted June 19, 2015 Share Posted June 19, 2015 Not sure who you purchased calipers from but I was able to get my fronts replaced under warranty from rockauto. I had a1 Cardone and Raybestos both had 1 year warranties Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gto7419 Posted June 19, 2015 Share Posted June 19, 2015 Something in the abs could be locked up and not receiving pressure. Could be the master, could be seized pistons. Does it do this on both sides? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thestratomaster Posted June 20, 2015 Author Share Posted June 20, 2015 Did you let the cylinder get too low on fluid at any point during the flush? Could be air in the lines... If I were a bettin man...my money would be on seized pistons Nope, don't have any of the symptoms of air in the lines, or a bad master cylinder. Not sure who you purchased calipers from but I was able to get my fronts replaced under warranty from rockauto. I had a1 Cardone and Raybestos both had 1 year warranties I bought them from rockauto, unfortunately they're just over a year old. Something in the abs could be locked up and not receiving pressure. Could be the master, could be seized pistons. Does it do this on both sides? It does it on both sides to somewhat different severity and it seems to change side to side. I took everything apart to clean and lube all parts. Slide pins were good on both sides, 1 piston is seized on each caliper and 1 pad was very sticky in the carrier. Also of interest, the dust seals were about 1/4 of the way gone on the passenger side pistons. So there's that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reallyrottens Posted June 20, 2015 Share Posted June 20, 2015 Wow that got warm.. i had a simular issued on my Spec B as well driver side front lower piston locked up in its bore and toasted everything there... i jsut replaced with a rebuilt unit and upgraded to a Stop tech package from KNS brakes. good luck sir Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thestratomaster Posted June 20, 2015 Author Share Posted June 20, 2015 I picked up a set of brembo's this morning. Hopefully these last longer than the stupid rebuilt stockers I've been going through Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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