Where is this banjo bolt/oil filter screen exactly located?

I must have an oil starvation problem. I replaced my original factory snail with a good used one that only lasted 75 miles. I took the oil feed line off the top of the housing and no oil seeped out, so it may have drained back down enough to not offer any leak, but when I took it off the original, there was oil. So turbo #2, broke in one day, there must be a serious problem. Since I didn't check it the first time, I have to check it this time to rule that possiblity. I tried follwoing the steel lines that go towards the engine, on both sides, but they seem to disappear under the intake area. I have searched threads and no one has specifically said where this is. The closest I saw was someone mentione near the #3 cylinder, but maybe stupid, where is #3? Someone please provide my dumb ass this info so I can move on with this God forsaken car! Thanks in advance!

jeez! Thanks!

Thread;

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/2-5gt-turbo-oil-supply-banjo-bolt-filter-removal-61689.html

 

 

Post;

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1771234&postcount=255

 

 

Mike

Atte some dinner and removed the banjo bolt filter, pretty cruddy in there with much particulate activity, both solid and sludgy. I am going to opt to eliminate the filter, but may install an external filter on the feed line. Solid material was metal, assuming from turbo, which also means that there is metal in the crankcase, of course. So an engine flush, turbo, and hopefully I am good.

 

At this point, I don't want to put back on a stock turbo, was really thinking of a 16g upgrade and stage II tune, but I am just so freaked out about losing a third turbo. I hope I have done everything I can to help prevent future loss. Any suggestions?

Did you replace the oil cooler after the first and second turbo blew?

 

Did you remove the oil pan and check/clean all debris from it?

 

You should search a little more about replacing a blown turbo from this site. There is quite a bit involved; even when done correctly, you could still end up replacing your short block in the near future.

You may want to remove the front banjo filter too. HAMMERDOWN has a good DIY on that one.

You may want to remove the front banjo filter too. HAMMERDOWN has a good DIY on that one.

 

Now I have to find that one too

Now I have to find that one too

 

Look behind the plastic timing belt cover on the front of the drivers side head. You need to file down the head of the banjo to back it out so it will clear the back of the cover.

Look behind the plastic timing belt cover on the front of the drivers side head. You need to file down the head of the banjo to back it out so it will clear the back of the cover.

 

 

I must be getting better, I think I spotted it there too! Thanks Max

I am going to drop the oil pan and cleam out from the bottom up in the crank case, including oil cooler and valve cover areas. Hopefully I can flush the oil system. Is kerosene ok to use? I know in the past, especially on aviation engines (which often are subaru short blocks or rotax, depending on the aircraft) we used kerosene and cranked the engine with the magneto disconnected to pump the cleaner throughout the block. I am just concerned that the bearings on the engine may deteriorate with kerosene. Aviation bearing may or may not be a different, more durable bearing material since it is for aviation. Not really sure, just speculating since everything in aviation is usually more durable. Any thoughts?

I am going to screen the oil as it comes out to see how much debris comes out. Then cut the filter to further reveal particles.

 

The engine sounded good with no noticible signs of interior damage by sound, ticks, knocks, etc. So I am keeping my fingers crossed that no metal debris damaged the engine.

It sounds like you are going to try and clean the oil cooler. Easier/cheaper to just pay the $200 for a new oil cooler and have peace of mind.

It sounds like you are going to try and clean the oil cooler. Easier/cheaper to just pay the $200 for a new oil cooler and have peace of mind.

 

That is my normal "mentality" too, but budget is very much a factor right now, so I will try to be as thourough as I can in doing that.