CEL, Combination Meter, P0302

Got a CEL situation going on. The 2005 built in code reader gives me:

 

P0000 - Which apparently means WARNING! ALL SYSTEMS OPERATING NORMALLY!

 

And,

 

P0302 - Cylinder 2 Misfire Detected

 

Sparkplugs are only 17,000 old. Coil pack? Ignition wire? And which cylinder is #2?

 

Thanks!

 

-Blue

 

 

References:

http://www.aetool.com/upload/Generic%20OBD%20II%20DTC%20Definition.pdf

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/code-reader-23292.html?t=23292

http://www.legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=10146&d=1127189539

#2 is drivers side front.

 

swap the coil pack with #4, which is the one behind it, drivers side. See if the CEL follows. If it does replace the coil. If it doesn't, swap injectors.

Thanks! Performed the coil pack swap. No change.

 

That makes the fuel injector the top suspect. Can I replace just the fuel injector on cylinder #2? Or do I need to replace them all?

Before buying injectors, try swapping them between 2 and 4 and see what happens. Do you get a rough idle? How many miles on your car?

Working on swapping injectors. I've got the electrical connectors off, the torx screw and bracket out, but the fuel injector doesn't seem to want to budge. Do I just pull? Twist...? Break out the vice grips...?

 

Thanks!

I've been using a trick that works really well. Found it online. But it's hard to explain in writing. I am using a bicycle wheel spoke to pull the injectors out. It works every time. I need to find a picture to show you how it is used. brb..

Thanks for the write-up on how to do this. Have a P0302 code, before I change plugs I figured I'd swap the injectors on cylinders 2 & 4, see if the code moved.

 

Ran into trouble getting a grip on the injectors to pull them out with pliers, noticed the holes on each side. Figured those were probably used for a specialty tool made for pulling the injectors, so I made a puller out of a heavier duty coat hanger and one sturdy zip-tie, worked like a charm.

 

Having trouble attaching pics today, so here's a description of how. Use one of the hangers that has the cardboard tube, discard the tube. Cut off both bend ends so you have two equal length straight pieces connected by the curved hanger end. Using a pair of pliers, bend a 1/4 tip 90 degrees to the end of each side. Then bend an offset (two bends required each side) into each end so that the tips can fit into the injector, while the two hanger wires can snug together just above the injector. Cinch the zip tie around the two wires, trim the excess.

 

Slide the zip tie up towards the hand grip (hanger) end while inserting the bent tips into each side of the injector. Slide the zip tie down to tighten the tips in place in the injector. Hold the puller with one hand near the injector, pull on the other end, should work fine. You can also bend one of the handles on a binder clip as shown, but the hanger is the easier solution.

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=128338&d=1347295339

 

 

 

 

Here we go. Follow this method. Works very well.

 

Btw, did you release the fuel pressure?

Beautiful! I'll give that a try later.

(Yes, I did release the fuel pressure!)

 

Thanks!

Great. Keep a rag close by though. There will still be a little bit of fuel. I usually place it right next to the injector just in case. Good luck.

Well, I made a custom coat hanger injector puller, pulled the injectors from Cylinder #2 and Cylinder #1, sprayed them down with carb cleaner, and swapped them. OBD code stayed the same: P0302.

 

So the problem is not the coil pack, and it is not the injector. Car is definitely running on three cylinders. I'm thinking that I should replace the spark plugs next, even though they were changed 17,000 miles ago.

 

Any other suggestions?

 

Thanks!

Plugs are about the only other easy thing to swap (like you did with coils and injectors).

 

If the problem won't move, then maybe it's time to do a compression test.

 

btw - I have the coat hanger injector puller too The hook part makes a good handle.

mmmh. I have a feeling it is either rings or valves. If it is one of those, then I hope it is the latter. It is relatively "cheaper" of a fix than the former..

 

FYI, you can do a leakdown test yourself too if you already have a compressor. Just buy the leakdown tester. And the test should be done when the engine is warm.

Well, I pulled the spark plugs. #2 was black, so the OBD code wasn't lying. I also noticed that the gaps looked big. I measured them at .045 inch. My mechanic installed the wrong plugs at the 120,000 mile service!

 

So I installed the correct plugs (.030 inch gap) and hoped that would be the solution. Unfortunately the engine is still running on three cylinders - P0302.

compression test might be the next thing to try. it's about as easy as changing a spark plug a more thorough test is the "leakdown" test, but compression test might be an easy first thing to try. if you report back your psi results here for all 4 cylinders, maybe something will jump out.

I'm betting you have a burnt valve. Has the car always been on the stock Tune ?

Yes, always stock. There are some suspension mods, but I've never (yet...) enhanced the engine tuning.

 

It does get driven with some enthusiasm occasionally.

Doesn't matter, there is a flaw in the stock MAP that will cause burnt valves, #2 is where it shows up first most of the time.

 

The best thing the first owner could have done was to get the car off the OEM MAP.

 

My wagon has been on a Cobb or Pro tune since 8000 miles, still running the OEM valves.

Compression test says: 30 PSI in cylinder #2.

 

Ouch.

Compression test says: 30 PSI in cylinder #2.

 

Ouch.

 

Sorry to hear that. Going to pull the engine?

sorry to hear. So low compression due to? rings or valves?

I don't have the facilities nor the free time to do it myself, so considering my options.

 

The local dealership says probably $3500-4000. Independent mechanic thinks he can do it for about $3000. This is all assuming that it is a burnt valve.

The mechanic has only done a compression test on cylinder #2. If I think I'm going to proceed to fix it, we will do a leak down test on all cylinders. At this point we don't know if it's rings or valves.

That's why most mechanics will simply push you to swap in a new shortblock. They don't want to spend the time opening up everything and hunting around.

Take care of all 4 cylinders at the same time.

Engine is out of the car. Mechanic says all that is needed is a valve adjustment. That will save some money.

 

Going to replace the clutch while we're at it.

 

Anything else I should consider while the engine is out of the car?

That's great news that it's just valves.