Spark Plug Install Instructions

Just tried to change the plugs in my 07 LGT yesterday. A plastic pipe leading to the air pump was in the way on the driver side but it can be pushed out of the way with a little bit of effort. I wasn't however able to get the coil off the drivers side rear plug and could see no way to do it other than unbolting engine mounts which was more than I bargained for so I just put it all back together and decided a little more research was warranted.

 

Has anyone had any experience with changing the plugs on an 07 LGT? Any tips for me? If I did have to unbolt some engine mounts (I did this for my 05 WRX up-pipe install) which one/ones would I need and if I jack the whole engine up some will it make it all a lot easier? What torque do the mounts need when they are reinstalled?

I just changed mine over the weekend. I removed the airpump tube completely (there's a spring-type hose clamp in the front and 1 10mm bolt and a hose clamp in the back that can be easily accessed under the car, install is opposite of removal) With that out of the way, it's really tight but you can jiggle it around to get it rotated like suggested else where in this thread and it will come out. I found once you break the spark plug loose, if you use a 3/8"deepwell socket with a 1/2" to 3/8" adaptor it has just enough for you to use your hand to get remove / install the plug and easily get the tools out.

Okay, while I admit I did not read this whole thread, I have to say that I never saw anything mentioned about removing the wire connector from the coil pack. This made a world of difference when it came to the rear coil packs on both sides. The rear coil packs are easily removed after they are rotated 180 degrees and the wire connector is removed.

It's definitely mentioned somewhere in this thread or a different one, including a link to a video of how to do it.

Definitely made my life easier..

Alright cool. When I first started it and it didn't crank over my pants got a little heavier I thought I had really screwed something up. Makes sense what you say about the ECU rebooting etc' date=' and that's kind of what I figured. I'm glad to know it's happened to everyone though. I am very happy as well that I did this. My plugs looked like crap!! That's with 56k of spirited driving on them. The car idols so smooth now and you're right it feels like it's brand new again. I'll probably end up switching to every 30k miles for the change, now that i'm not afraid to change the plugs and it should be MUCH easier next time around.[/quote']

Yeah, I had that happen to me, except that it didn't start up at all. I cranked it over for a good 20 seconds but nothing happens. It's sitting at the dealer right now... Took me 6 hours of installation/taking everything apart/trying to start it until I couldn't take anymore. Anyone got any ideas? I followed all the instructions just fine... I was putting on Pulstar plugs though instead of OEM's. The only thing I can think of is that I might have damaged the plug by gapping it with a ball peen hammer (lightly, mind you... but still with a hammer). PM if you've got any ideas/ways to keep me from throwing myself off a bridge out of shame.

Yeah, I had that happen to me, except that it didn't start up at all. I cranked it over for a good 20 seconds but nothing happens. It's sitting at the dealer right now... Took me 6 hours of installation/taking everything apart/trying to start it until I couldn't take anymore. Anyone got any ideas? I followed all the instructions just fine... I was putting on Pulstar plugs though instead of OEM's. The only thing I can think of is that I might have damaged the plug by gapping it with a ball peen hammer (lightly, mind you... but still with a hammer). PM if you've got any ideas/ways to keep me from throwing myself off a bridge out of shame.

Really...? If you're gonna take the time to do it, you really should do it right. Use the correct plugs. They don't require gapping normally, but if you decide to do it anyway, I suggest using a chainsaw. It's a much better tool for that than a hammer .

Yeah, I had that happen to me, except that it didn't start up at all. I cranked it over for a good 20 seconds but nothing happens. It's sitting at the dealer right now... Took me 6 hours of installation/taking everything apart/trying to start it until I couldn't take anymore. Anyone got any ideas? I followed all the instructions just fine... I was putting on Pulstar plugs though instead of OEM's. The only thing I can think of is that I might have damaged the plug by gapping it with a ball peen hammer (lightly, mind you... but still with a hammer). PM if you've got any ideas/ways to keep me from throwing myself off a bridge out of shame.

I know hindsight is 20/20 but you do realize the gap tool is like a buck from any of the parts places right? And I hope you got a deal on those Pulstar plugs.

I learned many a valuable lesson from this process:

1. Don't listen to friends who say "I usually use a ball peen hammer to gap my spark plugs."

2. Don't buy Pulstar plugs. The OEM ones are just fine, and Pulstars will result in a flooded engine.

3. Hose clamps are really sharp. Really. Really. Sharp.

Trying to save a couple bucks?

Changing the plugs on your Outback or GT is fairly advanced. Not as involved as rebuilding a motor but, strip the threads, crack a plug or get impatient and start flailing on a hot engine and your stuff will be getting towed to a real mechanic.

I know hindsight is 20/20 but you do realize the gap tool is like a buck from any of the parts places right?

I would be very careful about those disc-style gap tools, or any sort of precise measuring device for a buck. Using a set of feeler gauges is a lot more reliable

I would be very careful about those disc-style gap tools, or any sort of precise measuring device for a buck. Using a set of feeler gauges is a lot more reliable

True, true, True!

Why go a step colder on your plugs? A colder plug can reduce problems with in the engine. Reduced heat is good for summertime...

Here check this out... http://www.ngk.com/glossaryImage.asp?imgID=94 I also posted a pic to click on.

was too lazy to swap these myself, went to local Subaru dealer and they said they had to take off 2 of the engine mounts and lift the engine to get one of the back plugs in! Safe to say i wont being going back to them. First and last time using the main stealers!

That is so crazy.... and they even had access to a lift to work under or on top of the car and they still said that!

RUN!

Put the car up on drive-on blocks, did the drivers side just as fat as the pass side, did not remove battery, did it all from underneith. Highly recommend doing drivers side from under side , pass from above. Took 1 hr.

Plugs were in bad (worn but no signs of engine isues) shape, 40k on them.

Rear set of coils are starting to rust, both of them. Coils are actually spreading apart due to the corrosion. Anyone else having that issue yet? 123k on the car, but bottom engine cover, "skidplate", has had a missing cover since 40k...Look just like this one:

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/bad-coil-pack-looks-like-67194.html

^ Can't help you with the coils - but I wanted to thank you for the tip about putting the car up in the air.

I'll give that trick a try next time.

Np...sorry for the txt nature of the posts, new iPad....!

Now that I know I don't have to beat myself up with the back two plugs, I'm going to change them every 30k...no excuses. Accessing the pass side plugs is still helpful w shield off , but taking the air box out is so fast it's a no brainer to to them from above. Having the exhaust not in the way of the drivers side plugs, means you can get them both easy from below.

And I have big hands.