Extreme interior cleaning

I did some grizzly cleaning on a Honda Odyssey this weekend. The thing hadn’t been really cleaned beyond just vacuuming for something like 6 years. This is exactly the reason I won’t ever have tan, beige, white, brown, or any other color of leather in my car other than black, dark grey, charcoal, or something like that. Light colored interiors are just a nightmare to keep clean and they take forever when you do need to clean them. It wasn’t as hammered as some vans I’ve done have been. The kids going in and out of this did a good job of not spraying soda all over the ceiling or having the family zoo shed their fur in it every day, so the bulk of the cleaning was on the hard surfaces and the leather.

 

For the leather I used the Wolfgang Leather Cleaner and then ultimately the conditioner. I’ve found for really dirty seats it is best to use something which is dedicated to cleaning to get the best results, otherwise I would have used something like Poorboy’s Leather Stuff. That works really well too. This van was being repurposed to be used as a shuttle for clients to and from the hangar with their private plane, so I really wanted it to look its best.

 

The process as just a lot of elbow grease. I used a carpet brush with nylon bristles that really do a great job on getting in the grain of leather seats and getting the dirt out without damaging it. I wouldn’t suggest just any carpet brush for this kind of work though. You’ll see the one I’m talking about down there with the side rails. Anyway, spray the cleaner on the seats, let it soak just for a second, and then brush it out using circular movements. That is really the key. Scrubbing back and forth doesn’t get nearly the result that circles get you. It is the same advice your dentist will give you about brushing your teeth, actually.

 

I did wipe the seats down with Meguiar’s Interior Detailer real fast before applying the conditioner just to make sure I got all the streaks and the grain was really clean. The difference was night and day. If I had brought a good camera with a flash then I would have taken pictures of the interior before I took it all apart and cleaned it and then after I put it all back together. It didn’t even look like the same van. But the purpose of this is just to talk about cleaning a couple of the surfaces, so here are the seat pictures.

 

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y42/OCDetails/G2%20Photos/IMG_20110813_143325.jpg

 

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y42/OCDetails/G2%20Photos/IMG_20110813_144926.jpg

 

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y42/OCDetails/G2%20Photos/IMG_20110813_145017.jpg

 

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y42/OCDetails/G2%20Photos/IMG_20110813_145010.jpg

 

Taking the seats out is obviously the best way to clean them. Anytime that is an option for you I would highly recommend it. Especially in a van where getting them out it easy. For a van it is even more important because you’ll want to have access to the plastic covers over the anchor points for the seats anyway.

 

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y42/OCDetails/G2%20Photos/IMG_20110813_145033.jpg

 

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y42/OCDetails/G2%20Photos/IMG_20110813_145040.jpg

 

The side rails where you step in were also a mess. Typical for this color, actually. Cleaning them required using a little elbow grease as well. That and Tuff Stuff. I love that stuff…. It is ridiculously versatile.

 

Since I’m using the same brush for carpets, plastics, and the seats, it is important that I clean it out to avoid just driving more dirt into whatever I’m trying to clean. I keep some all purpose cleaner and water handy so I can wash it out after each project to keep it clean. Just a tip you might want to consider. Keep your tools clean and you will have less frustration down the road.

 

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y42/OCDetails/G2%20Photos/IMG_20110813_112353.jpg

 

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y42/OCDetails/G2%20Photos/IMG_20110813_112346.jpg

 

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y42/OCDetails/G2%20Photos/IMG_20110813_112607.jpg

 

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y42/OCDetails/G2%20Photos/IMG_20110813_112631.jpg

 

I’ve got a whole case full of interior cleaning tools. Retired tooth brushes, brass and steel brushes, nylon brushes, dusters for vents, all sorts of picks and wedges which are also handy for engine detailing, a couple blades, and a little multi tool with a screw driver and pliers and stuff on it. These tools are ridiculously handy to have around. I bought a really cheap dremel thing several years ago which came in that nifty little case. It has been the best case for interior tools I could have ever imagined. It slides perfectly under the Autogeek detailing bag I have too, so that makes it even better.

 

Vans and SUVs can take a ton of time if you do them right. I spent 5 hours on the interior and 2 hours on the exterior of this vehicle. Good thing it was white or it would have taken longer. Because of the color inside it just took extra time because every piece of dirt shows. On a darker interior you may not get it quite as clean because you just can’t see the dirt you are leaving behind. That saves you time, but it doesn’t mean the vehicle is clean. I have an Odyssey myself and it takes me just as long to detail it when I do my yearly full on cleaning. My rule is to clean it as if it was as dirty as you can imagine it is even if you can’t see the dirt. You know it is there, so clean it anyway. Find a process and stick to it regardless of whether or not you can see the dirt. If you haven’t cleaned your leather seats in a couple years and they just don’t look that dirty, clean them as if they were anyway. They probably are filthy, but you have just been too close to the forest to see the trees. Many people don’t realize their leather is getting this dirty because the change has been so gradual that they didn’t notice I’ll tell you that when the owner saw the difference on this van, he was absolutely shocked at how dirty it had been. He didn’t even realize it had gotten so bad. So get some good tools and clean em up!

Awesome work and pics... I have to ask how much did you charge for that?

NICE WORK!

 

but what do you use on dirty seat belts?

Oh, I live the Sharpie in your tool box....Great way to hide little scratches

The Sharpie comes in really handy. I use it to blacken screws that are scratched up or to touch up scratches and wear spots in other areas. I had to use it on the dash on this van, actually. For whatever reason the black was wearing off the very edge of the dash above the speedo cluster, so I dabbed them up so they weren't so obvious. Mismatched black is not as obvious as white spots showing through black.

 

I cut this guy a deal. I've been doing a lot of work for this family lately, so I cut my rate a bit and only charged him $300 for it. I spent a good six or seven hours on it, so I definitely earned my money on this one. My van is the same as this one other than the color, so I knew what I was getting myself into. I just really wanted to do a good job and impress the socks off them. It worked. They are tossing around some other ideas to use me for which could include a full time job doing this for their company, so I'll just have to see what happens.

NICE WORK!

 

but what do you use on dirty seat belts?

 

Same process. Let the Tuff Stuff soak for a bit and then scrub away.

Thanks for the write-up! My wife has a '01 BMW 325i with the light gray interior and her seats look exactly the same (dirty) as those seats. I've tried rubbing them with leather cleaner several times and still couldn't get them to look clean enough. Thanks for the tip with the brush, I'll be trying this next time around.

Awesome Job. So there's still hope for my Wife's Murano.

You can use Tuff Stuff on the leather too, just in case you wanted to give that a try. I would just highly recommend you have some good conditioner on hand to apply right after. Tuff Stuff has some stronger cleaners than what is normally used on leather, but as long as using it isn't an every week part of your process, then it works just fine for a once in awhile deep clean.

Awesome Job. So there's still hope for my Wife's Murano.

 

Well, in your case there isn't much hope. No matter what you use on the interior, it is still going to be a Murano. lol

jebus man your a wizzard with detailing. you should open a shop in md. most here suck

LOL - Come on you don't like the Murano interior It's a face only a mother could love.

I'd love some tips on cleaning the perforated leather in my Outback.

you did a great work and thanks for sharing it with us.

I'd love some tips on cleaning the perforated leather in my Outback.

 

Same process. Just use a leather cleaner and scrub. With perforated leather you will want to use a gel type conditioner if you want to avoid getting the holes all filled up. That is where I've found Poorboy's Leather Stuff to be really great at. Give that product a shot and I have no doubt your leather will come out looking great. You have to order it online, but there are about a zillion online retailers that carry it.

Went and bought a soft bristle brush last night and gave it a try. The brush def works better than a towel. I used leather cleaner, soaked the seats for a min or 2, and gave it a good scubbing. Followed up with leather conditioner. Much, much cleaner than before. + 1

I can't believe how good everything looks great job. I am definitely going to have to try this. I have been battling some nasty stains on my tan interior. Thanks for the info!

I wrote an article a year or two ago about detailing as it compares to dentistry. I believe the comparison isn't too far off. A dentist has a number of different tools to clean a number of different textures and shapes. He has to floss crud out when the other tools won't reach. You follow a process of cleaning, polishing, and protecting. The metaphor is very appropriate I feel.

 

Think of your interior that way. When you feel like you can't get into a spot to get it clean, imagine what your dentist would do. If you can't reach the center console down by the rails of your seat, what do you think a good flossing might do? Or a pick? Do you have another tool you could use to extend into that area? Can't clean your vents? Same principle. Find a tool. You don't brush your teeth with a wash rag and expect them to get clean, so follow the same concept in your car. I would have a variety of brushes and little tools handy so you can get those hard to reach spots. Toothbrushes are one of my favorite things to use in a car. They are slim and durable and come in so many different levels of scrubbing power. Dollar stores are your friend. Big Lots is a good spot too.

 

Just remember to scrub in circles and wipe the area while it is still wet. Whatever cleaner you are using is going to get dirty pretty quick, so you'll want to get that wiped up. After awhile the towel you are using is going to get pretty saturated and just end up putting down dirty streaks on everything instead of soaking it up. I would use a microfiber towel for this kind of thing, but you could use shop towels too. They work great. But the kind of towels you can get 50 of for $5 at Costco or something work really well and are ultimately less of a hassle than going through a couple rolls of shop towels and having to pick them all up afterwards.

 

I'm sort of hijacking my own thread with this line of thought, but there are some really good tools to look into getting beyond just the toothbrushes and carpet brush. There is a set of tools called SlickStixxx that I would be lost without. They are technically meant for motorcycle detailing, but they work great on interiors and under the hood as well. Absolutely awesome tools. The one end with a point is great at getting the crud out of the perforations in leather, by the way.

 

There is another tool which I love. It might seem kind of shady to have, but it is a plastic knife. I have no idea what nefarious purpose you might come up with for a knife entirely made out of some sort of plastic with a beryllium copper anti-magnetic spring in it (won't set off metal detectors), but it works great on getting emblems off, flossing out seams in paint, and just generally purpose use when you need something with an edge but don't want it to be a razor blade. It is a very very handy little knife to have. It is barely sharp enough to open a letter, but the edge does get under things you may want to pop open without scratching it. There are actually a couple other knives like that. I've got two of the Blackie Collins knives and one of the CIA letter openers. I collect blades, so they were just interesting to me, but I have found they work out better in the garage than anywhere else.

 

So anyway, just some more tips for you. Interior detailing can be a bitch, so any extra advice I can throw out there is my pleasure to do.

BUMP

 

Ok OCDetails, is this a good shopping list? (see attached)

- Wolfgang leather cleaner

- Nylon brush

- Meguiars Interior Detailer to wipe it clean before conditioning

- Poorboys Leather stuff for conditioning (due to perforations)

 

Questions: Why the interior detailer if you used leather cleaner already?

Why not use the Leather Stuff to clean as well? Not as good of a dedicated cleaner?

 

Is this a good brush to use on leather?

 

Have you used Meguiars APC+ to clean leather? Here is a thread where a lot of people seem to swear by the stuff. They said 10:1 ratio and work in small sections. I won't buy a vapor steamer, I plan to just use elbow grease

 

Seems like a good deal if it works, I imagine I can use APC+ on all the trim as well... more like a "universal" solution. I don't want to harm the leather though.

 

Thanks in advance.

The reason I like the interior detailer spray first is because it helps get all the crumbs and stuff out first. It also helps wipe up any goobers or chunks of stuff on the surface. Plus it is nice to have on hand to maintain things with going forward. It isn't absolutely necessary though. As long as you can start out with a surface free of crumbs and stuff stuck to the surface, then you are ready to go.

 

If you are going to be dealing with the perforations then I would just stick with the Leather Stuff. It should do the trick and it much better on the perforations. If anything I would get another dedicated conditioner. Leather Stuff works well, but it isn't a rock star of a conditioner in my book. Pretty much anything can take care of the job of cleaning, but for protection I want to make sure I'm using stuff that works.

 

That brush would probably work, but it is really tiny. I use one exactly like that for brushing my microfiber couch. I don't know that I'd use it for this kind of cleaning though. I suppose it would work, but it is pretty small and not very comfy to grip. You can find a variety of brushes locally at walmart or target that work just fine too. As long as the bristles are fairly stiff, but not so much so that it will rip the leather, then you are fine. Just look for one with spaced out bristles that is comfortable to hold and you'll be fine.

 

Meguiar's APC does work well. You just have to get the dilution done right and it works like a champ. There are people who find Woolite does the same trick and is a little more gentle on leather, but it all depends on the type you are dealing with. There are a lot of ways to skin this particular cat.

 

With those seats you may find that the cracks on the side never really lighten up that much. When the leather cracks you end up seeing the backing. That isn't going to rub out. The surface dirt will and the dirt in the grain will, but those long wrinkles are going to stay dark. I only mention it so you know what to expect when you are all done. You can scrub those forever and all it will do is make the cracks bigger. That is why a good conditioner is so important. It is the conditioner which helps prevent that kind of thing.

Thanks a million.

I am torn, you suggest Wolfgang and Pinnacle conditioners, but you say gel type is best for perforation... which neither of those are correct?

 

The seats are 6 years old and un-cared for.... so I have a lot of rejuvenating to do

I would use the gel for the cleaning. For the conditioning I would use something else. You apply it to the applicator and wipe down the solid parts first. Then wipe down the perforated leather when there isn't so much product on the applicator. This helps keep it from squishing into the holes. That is really the only reason I would suggest one versus the other. The same process pretty much holds true for the gel, but since you have to do a little more scrubbing on the perforated parts, the gel helps keep the perforations from getting filled up. I actually don't use Leather Stuff on a regular basis and find all sorts of ways of cleaning perforated leather without ruining it, so this is by no means the only way to do the job. It is one way though and it works very well without much of a learning curve.

wow on those seat before and after pictures...

I can't seem to get results like that at all in my tan interior. I hate it. I wish i had a steam cleaner or something that would make it a little easier. No matter how hard i seem to scrub the fabric seats they just seem to have a tinge of grey to them.

I wish i could find black leather seats for this thing.