sachilles Posted November 4, 2011 Share Posted November 4, 2011 I'm new to legacies and new to tuning. I bought a 05 legacy gt with a bad motor and turbo. The most cost effective solution for me was rebuilt motor. The only things different from stock is a VF48 turbo, and a sti(catless) up pipe. Car is a 5eat automatic. Stock tune. At the time of the logs below, there is about 650 miles on the rebuild. About 300 miles ago the ecu was reset to eliminate the dtc for no egt sensor. Of course the light came back on. I did the resistor fix and the CEL turned off. Even though the CEL has cleared, it can be seen in the learning view. Is this affecting the IAM? Couple of questions, as I have a lot to learn. The IAM is at .8750. I know the goal is to get that to 1.000, but may take some time after an ecu reset. How long should it take to get there with normal driving? Could someone look at my learning view and my 3rd gear pull log, to see if there are any warning signs in terms of tune with these non stock parts. Thank you for taking the time to look. Eager to learn.romraiderlog_20111103_170519.csv Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmx045 Posted November 4, 2011 Share Posted November 4, 2011 The iam can take some time to get to 1. I've logged after a reset and within 20 miles of variable throttle driving it reached 1. You have learned knock under load but nothing serious or render action. Stock tunes can knock, and usually its more than what you're seeing. Your fuel trims are off, and since you are not running a stock turbo, an open source tune is HIGHLY recommended. If you have a new shortblock, recommended break-in period is between 1500-2500 miles of variable throttled driving, non-synthetic oil, and not pushing it hard. After that mileage its ok to dyno and romp on it to fully seat the rings and start the tuning process. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sachilles Posted November 4, 2011 Author Share Posted November 4, 2011 Thank you BMX, Open source tune is part of the plan. I just wanted to confirm that there wasn't any huge warnings signs due to the non traditional setup. I plan to take it easy until the break in time is over. I didn't really want to do the third gear pull, but figured it would be necessary to give a picture of what is going on, in case immediate change were required. That is the only time I've hammered on the car thus far. I don't intend to abuse it any more until break in more established. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iNVAR Posted November 4, 2011 Share Posted November 4, 2011 Hmm, 20 miles (or 300!) to get back to IAM 1? Holy crap.... IAM takes me about 5 minutes, tops, to get back to 1.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmx045 Posted November 4, 2011 Share Posted November 4, 2011 come to think about it, it was much quicker than 20miles, lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iNVAR Posted November 4, 2011 Share Posted November 4, 2011 Yeah, it really should be back up at 1 within a few minutes from what I've seen. It's a safety precaution, which means he's knocking enough for the ECU to pull timing from across the board. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sachilles Posted November 4, 2011 Author Share Posted November 4, 2011 So let me ask this question. If it's knocking enough that the iam isn't at 1.000 then that means the tune isn't a good fit. Yet I need to wait to break the motor in. Which is the lesser of two evils. Trying to tune it now without the motor fully broken in.....or let it break in with a bad tune? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmx045 Posted November 4, 2011 Share Posted November 4, 2011 You should get a safe map to break-in on. Even on a fresh motor and stage 2 parts + intake, STOCK tune, I have not seen this bad of a LV.... So something else may be causing you to knock like a bitch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sachilles Posted November 4, 2011 Author Share Posted November 4, 2011 Well that's comforting. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NSFW Posted November 5, 2011 Share Posted November 5, 2011 +15% in the AF Learning value for 0-5 g/s typically indicates a vacuum leak. I usually see IAM go from 0.5 to 1.0 on a freeway ramp a few minutes from my house, but if I don't hit that ramp, it can take a long time to climb to 1.0. I wouldn't panic yet. Just find and fix the vacuum leak, and then see what happens. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Infamous1 Posted November 5, 2011 Share Posted November 5, 2011 When road tuning I see an iam of 1 out of a driveway into traffic. Note you can set initial to one but I don't. But if you drive it civilally you will be okay til it's time to tune. It's not horrible currently but far from good as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sachilles Posted November 5, 2011 Author Share Posted November 5, 2011 I had a local friend who tunes on other formats do a quick modification to the tune just for my break in. Having an issue with learning view, it's not operating after windows had an issue updating .net. I did manage to get a few logs....didn't want to abuse it. Not sure if it's the same IAM but I saw the log parameter and added it to the log parameters. After the new flash, according to romraider it's at 1.00 for the IAM.romraiderlog_20111105_155347.csvromraiderlog_20111105_155645.csv Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmx045 Posted November 7, 2011 Share Posted November 7, 2011 looks better, knock sum doesn't increment, afr looks good at wot, iam is 1. timing is probably reduced Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sachilles Posted November 8, 2011 Author Share Posted November 8, 2011 All was well the last two days. On the way home from work, I go down a large hill. Coming to a stop at the bottom of the hill, the car stumbles at idle while stopped. I go on. A few miles further, the engine stumbles a bit at idle when I come to a stop. It kicks on a cel p0171 too lean. I continue home a couple miles and no further issues at idle. No issues this morning on the way in. I got learning view to work this am. Below is the screenshot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmx045 Posted November 8, 2011 Share Posted November 8, 2011 good other than a MASSIVE vacuum leak. a hose is disconnected somewhere and you NEED to find it asap as previously stated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iNVAR Posted November 8, 2011 Share Posted November 8, 2011 Looks like vac leak to me too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sachilles Posted November 8, 2011 Author Share Posted November 8, 2011 Yep. driver side on the intake manifold, going up to near the shock tower. Not sure if it popped off or was never connected on engine install. I'll snug up the connection as it doesn't seem that tight. Nothing else obvious. Thank you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sachilles Posted November 8, 2011 Author Share Posted November 8, 2011 I found the disconnected vacuum hose at lunch, and reconnected. I used learning view to reset the ecu. First Learning view is prior to the reset. Two separate logs on my drive home. Car continues to be very weak at idle. It can be seen in the logs at vehicle speed of 0. Second learning view taken after the second log. The idle still concerns me, does it make sense to think that there is another vacuum leak elsewhere? My only other thought is that perhap the original un connected vacuum line was the cause of my original issues, and now that the line is re-connected, the modified tune doesn't fit with idle? However, that logic doesn't make sense to me, as the idle did this prior to discovering the open vacuum line. edit: apparently my larger log is to large for the forum attachment feature. I'll see if I can cut it up and post it that way.romraiderlog_20111108_171430.csv Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmx045 Posted November 8, 2011 Share Posted November 8, 2011 give it more time, the fuel trims take a while to settle. from your log, manifold relative pressure reads too high, idle vacuum should be -18 to -21 inHg which is roughly 2 x psi, at the end of the log it seems to equate to -10inHg which indicates mucho problemo and why it idles so rough. i suggest a compression test, and a thorough investigation of more vac leaks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sachilles Posted November 9, 2011 Author Share Posted November 9, 2011 Appreciate the help. By give it more time, do you mean continue to drive it timidly, while doing my best to find the vac leak? Or park it until further notice? Sorry to be so dumb(it comes naturally for me). Compression test to be safe, or do you suspect a bigger issue is happening? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmx045 Posted November 9, 2011 Share Posted November 9, 2011 No heavy romping on it. Look for more leaks or loose hoses. Every port coming off the intake manifold should be going somewhere. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmx045 Posted November 9, 2011 Share Posted November 9, 2011 If the vac lines an hoses check out, a compression test will determine if your cylinders arent creating enough compression thus combustion thus vacuum pressure. Make sure all hose clamps are tight on the intercooler and manifold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sachilles Posted November 9, 2011 Author Share Posted November 9, 2011 Used carb cleaner sprayed in various places to see if it would cause the engine to pick up idle, and that would indicate where the vac leak was. Spraying where the turbo meets the intercooler seemed to do it. Tightened that connection. However I think it wasn't that easy. As spraying directly at the seem of the connection didn't do anything. Spraying between the intercooler and manifold consistantly cause the idle to raise....so the leak has to be there somewhere. Attached photo showing were I sprayed. I'll have to tackle it in daylight tomorrow. Any suggestions on the likely culprit in that area? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NSFW Posted November 9, 2011 Share Posted November 9, 2011 Look for a little blue T fitting just underneath the intake manifold. It has no barbs so it lets go of the hoses pretty easily. Also, the turbo inlet hose runs under the manifold there, and they've been known to tear sometimes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iNVAR Posted November 9, 2011 Share Posted November 9, 2011 It is normal for idle to take time to relearn itself after you flash or reset the ECU. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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