loc question

ok so i am new to the entire audio upgrade department. I understand the LOC function, but don't know details on what to order....

I assume their are 4 lines, one going to each speaker.

does this mean I need a LOC for each line? I will be running all speakers off of an amp(s)

or a multi LOC unit like the AudioControl units?

I plan on upgrading the door speakers and adding a subwoofer in the trunk.

nothing competitive, just upgraded... from what I have read I'm not impressed with any of the signal processors so that is going to wait for another day.

If you just want to add a subwoofer amp, you may not even need an LOC at all. Many amps have speaker level inputs or can accept speaker level inputs via their RCA jacks (like all the JL amps, for example). If you can avoid an LOC (especially on the subwoofer feed), do so. Passive LOC's degrade bass response. All you need to do is "t-splice" onto the rear speaker wires to feed the subwoofer amp. This can be done at the back of the head unit.

Replacing the front speakers without a processor is probably not the best idea. The Legacy's head unit is equalized for the factory speakers and may not produce good results with aftermarket speakers. If you want to really do it right, get at least a four-channel amp, a good OEM interface processor that can unequalize the factory radio, good front speakers and a subwoofer.

Good luck with your system.

Manville Smith

JL Audio, Inc.

Thanks for the input...I've read alot of your threads researching this. I am planning at least one 4 or five channel amp... addint eh sub, and replacing all factory speakers

I may go ahead and get a signal processor but from what I have read the one I like only does two channels, so I would need two units, one for the the front doors and one for the rears

I'll be using Reference 6022si in the rear doors Ref 6010 componenets in the front

and 1 Kicker SL7 i think....it's a 10" square sub that I am getting.

still looking at amps

this is what I am looking at for the LOC:

http://cgi.ebay.com/AudioControl-LC8-Eight-Channel-Line-Output-Converter_W0QQitemZ270207117506QQihZ017QQcategoryZ14931QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

If you just want to add a subwoofer amp, you may not even need an LOC at all. Many amps have speaker level inputs or can accept speaker level inputs via their RCA jacks (like all the JL amps, for example). If you can avoid an LOC (especially on the subwoofer feed), do so. Passive LOC's degrade bass response. All you need to do is "t-splice" onto the rear speaker wires to feed the subwoofer amp. This can be done at the back of the head unit.

 

Replacing the front speakers without a processor is probably not the best idea. The Legacy's head unit is equalized for the factory speakers and may not produce good results with aftermarket speakers. If you want to really do it right, get at least a four-channel amp, a good OEM interface processor that can unequalize the factory radio, good front speakers and a subwoofer.

 

Good luck with your system.

 

Manville Smith

JL Audio, Inc.

ok so i guess my choices are

basic loc units

the audio control unit

cleansweep... seems overkill for me

360.1 or 2 still trying to figure out the difference and how many channels they hold

ok so i guess my choices are

 

basic loc units

the audio control unit

cleansweep... seems overkill for me

360.1 or 2 still trying to figure out the difference and how many channels they hold

Well, I'm gonna have to defend my product for a second...

A Cleansweep is not overkill.. it was designed specifically to address the integration issues presented by the Legacy's audio system. If you are looking for a clean audio system, you need to start with a flat, clean signal and have a linear volume control and the Cleansweep does a great job of it while also giving you a clean aux input to add sources of your choice (sat radio, ipod, etc.).

It's a real shame when people spend good money on better speakers and amplifiers and feed them with a polluted signal.

The passive LOC approach is cheap, but you get what you pay for. Remember what I said that they are not always needed. If you use an amp with high quality differential-balanced inputs you won't need LOC's.

The AudioControl LC6i is a better choice than passive LOC's but does not correct frequency response and does not provide an aux input. IMO, the Cleansweep is worth the extra $150.00... their DQL-8 has a manual EQ and aux inputs, but it sells for twice as much as the Cleansweep.

The 360.1 and the 360.2 will also work well with the Legacy's system and provide some tuning features not offered by the Cleansweep, but they are significantly more complex to set up and require an outboard computer or PDA to set up. The Cleansweep is self-sufficient.

To get the job done both cost effectively and with clean results, the Cleansweep is a really good candidate.

Manville Smith

JL Audio, Inc.

One other possibility to this is this thread: http://www.legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=79026

If they are able to get that going it would give you clean, unprocessed RCA line outputs that you could feed into an amp. I am hopeful they will be able to get this done.

One other possibility to this is this thread: http://www.legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=79026

 

If they are able to get that going it would give you clean, unprocessed RCA line outputs that you could feed into an amp. I am hopeful they will be able to get this done.

i'm spending way less than that to meet my objective.....

a little better sound, volume and a lil thump is all i want

the audio controls are 100-150 or less on eaby... and it says the lc8 does :

Channel Summing

GTOTM - Signal Sensing Inputs

Level Matching Controls .....no input as you stated

the cleansweep looks like a good match if i can find one cheap enough for the budget I have set....the input is nice but not required. I won't lie, I have read one too many isssues with the cleansweep so it has me a little shy...

Apart from one user who had a very strange series of noise problems (which we're not sure were Cleansweep's fault), there have been many successful Cleansweep installations in LGT's... including my own. Remember that people tend to post problems a lot more than they post success stories on forums.

But suit yourself... just don't buy stuff you don't need.

1) You don't need channel summing in the Legacy. The head unit outputs four full-range audio channels.

2) If you really don't care about fixing the freq. response of the factory head unit signals, then save the money on the LC8 and just buy an amp that can accept inputs directly from the factory radio to run the whole system.

3) Use one of these to turn the amp on and off.($35.00).

http://www.pie.net/pie_store/shopexd.asp?id=645&bc=no

Or, if you want to try the Cleansweep, you can buy it from Crutchfield... if you're not satisfied, you can return it (no questions asked) within 30 days and they will even pay the return freight.

Good luck!

haha, don't be defensive...i'm leaning towards the cleensweep...I found a few used ones on ebay... and my research is never soley on lgt.com....i've found at least 10 user reviews that spoke of static so it's a little frightning.... and not something i want to deal with on my first self stereo install....

all of the options I am lookinng at have the off on amp feature

(lc8, cleensweep, and the 360)

if I do go with the cleansweep what else is needed? do I only need the cl441dsp?

Didn't mean to come off as defensive... let me try again.

Provided that you use an amp that can take high-level signals as inputs, the LC6 or LC8 offers zero benefit in your application over a simple signal sensing turn-on module ($35.00). It would be a complete waste of money. There are other applications in other cars where an LC6/8 can be very useful, this isn't one of them.

If you decide to use the Cleansweep, all you will need is the CL441dsp. I will be happy to help you with wiring information and setup information specific to the Legacy. Just e-mail me at "myusername"@jlaudio.com

If you buy a used one, make sure you get all the harnesses and controller assemblies with it. If any are missing, we do sell replacements.

Best regards,

Manville Smith

JL Audio, Inc.

I encourage you to read some great reviews at this site of a variety of processors like the CS, Alpine H650, RF 360, etc:

http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=7

thanks for the input! I have already seen it tho didn't really get much from that site other than that I didn't want the alpine..

i'm just going to do the cleansweep and hope it works. after rocking out in the car today my main frustration is the sound level changing when i turn it up past 30...if i understand correctly i will need the clean sweep to fix that

I encourage you to read some great reviews at this site of a variety of processors like the CS, Alpine H650, RF 360, etc:

http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=7

ok...so how do I properly size an amp.

front speakers

power range: 2-90 watts RMS (270 watts peak power)

rear

- Power Handling RMS : 50 Watts / Peak : 150 Watts

sub

Recommended RMS Power:50-600Peak Power Handling:1200 watts

this is one of the 5 channel amps i found...but it has no meaning to me

• Class D Multi-Channel Amplifier
  
• RMS Power Rating:
  4 ohms: 70 watts x 4 chan. + 210 watts x 1 Class D Sub channel
  2 ohms: 85 watts x 4 chan. + 420 watts x 1 Class D Sub channel
  4 ohms (bridged): 130 watts x 2 chan. + 420 watts x 1 chan. (2 ohms sub channel, 210 watts @ 4 ohms)
  
• Peak Power Rating:
  4 ohms: 140 watts x 4 chan. + 420 watts x 1 Class D Sub channel
  2 ohms: 170 watts x 4 chan. + 840 watts x 1 Class D Sub channel
  4 ohms (bridged): 260 watts x 2 chan. + 840 watts x 1 chan. (2 ohms sub channel, 420 watts @ 4 ohms)
  
• Bass Boost Remote Control: 0 - 18dB at 40Hz
  
• CEA-2006 Compliant
  
• 24dB per octave Crossover:
  
• Active at 50Hz - 200Hz
  
• High Pass, Low Pass, or Full-Pass selectable
  
• 4 gauge power/ground leads
  
• Dimensions: 20"L x 9 5/8"W x 2 1/8"H
  

haha, i just bought the cleansweep. picked up my l5 in a kicker box off craigslist....and waiting on my 4 infinity ref 6022si's coming in the mail....

i jsut don't know what to do about the amp set up. my installer said to be sure andget the right size...not to oversize ya know...and i'm seriously confused on these amps

One comment the cleansweep that hass kept me from going that route. I just can't stand the fact that your have to use a different volume knob and set the stocker at a fixed volume and my steering wheel volume controls are useless.

If you prefer, you can use the stock volume control and still get the benefit of the Cleansweep correcting the OEM head unit's baseline EQ curve. The only difference is that the bass level will increase at low volumes (not really such a bad thing) and decrease above VOL:30. If you set up your amp gains so that the system is plenty loud at VOL:30, then you simply don't need to turn up past that point and you can avoid the bass cut altogether. If you want to run the system like this you don't even need to install the CS knob... just turn it all the way up after calibration (with the CS on) and then disconnect it. The CS "remembers" the last vol knob position before it's disconnected. More details here: http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_cleansweep_pages.php?page_id=211

The only thing you absolutely need the CS knob for is to control the volume of the source connected to the AUX input of the CS. If you're using the AUX input, you will need to install the knob somewhere where it's comfortable to use... you can STILL USE THE FACTORY KNOB when listening to the factory head unit... just turn the volume up on the CS knob and use the factory controls.

Mr. Ed.... some suggestions:

To run four speakers and a sub, you can use a 5 or 6 channel amplifier.

The JL Audio 500/5 five-channel is an excellent premium choice:

100Wx2 to your front speakers

25Wx2 to your rear speakers (less power is ok to the rears)

250Wx1 to the subwoofer

http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_amps.php?amp_id=256

A more affordable alternative is the A6450 six-channel

45Wx4 to your front and rear speakers

150Wx1 to a sub

http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_amps.php?amp_id=403

If you want more subwoofer power you can go with an A1400 + A4300.

This will give you 400Wx1 to the sub, plus 45Wx4 to the front and rears.

http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_amps.php?amp_id=399

http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_amps.php?amp_id=402

Keep in mind that JL power ratings are very conservative (12.5V supply), so don't get too hung up on the seemingly low power. I use an A6450 + A1400 in my own car, and it is quite impressive.

msmith: where's a good place to get a cleansweep in Canada?

Here's the dealer list for Canada:

http://www.gemsen.com/jlaudiodealers/

Handy, thank you

 

Any plans in the works to partner with Crutchfield Canada?

Take a look, eh?

http://www.crutchfieldcanada.com/SearchResults.asp?sp=lnav&search=JL+Audio&Search.x=0&Search.y=0

damn..i already purchased an amp ....

mssmith thanks for all of your help though. After thinking about it you are 100% right about the cleansweep. it isn't any more expensive than doing it with subpar locs, and I think I will make good use of the input

final amp is= 85 watts to each door and 400 watts to the sub

damn..i already purchased an amp ....

 

mssmith thanks for all of your help though. After thinking about it you are 100% right about the cleansweep. it isn't any more expensive than doing it with subpar locs, and I think I will make good use of the input

 

final amp is= 85 watts to each door and 400 watts to the sub

No problem... have fun!

msmith: How would you compare the re-Q from the cleansweep?

Are they of the same function?