Exedy/Daycon Clutch - Anybody Heard of it?

The TOB is on its way out in my 05 GT. I bought the car about a year ago and it has 94k on it. Since I have to do the TOB, I might as well replace the clutch.

 

I got it quoted by both a dealer and private mechanic with OEM parts for $2,200. I was going to bite the bullet and have the dealer do it over Christmas, but then I had cause to take my sister's Jetta to a transmission shop recently and I had a great experience all around (Meenan Transmissions in Willow Grove, PA). When I picked her car up I asked for a quote from the owner and he advised going with a Daikin (Exedy) clutch kit (including new flywheel) for a total of $1,300 parts and labor because the OEM clutch kit is so outrageous (just a new OEM flywheel is about $600).

 

Other than a Cobb short throw shifter and Cobb shifter bushings, the car is bone stock. I drive only about 10 miles a day in suburbia and will probably keep the car for another 1 to 2 years. I enjoy putting the car through its paces occasionally (why own it otherwise) but I don't do any racing or beat on the clutch unnecessarily.

 

Thoughts? Anybody know anything about that clutch? Thanks in advance.

OEM clutch is made by Exedy. You should get an 06-07 wrx flywheel (single mass and a fraction of the price of your oem dual mass bullshit) and a clutch for the same, the exedy stage 1 can handle a beating, more than oem. You'll end up saving money on parts overall. Get the parts yourself, have him install. Here is all you need.

 

http://www.importimageracing.com/exedy-stage-1-organic-clutch-kit-for-06-13-subaru-wrx.html

 

http://www.importimageracing.com/subaru-oem-single-mass-flywheel-06-13-wrx-07-11-legacy-gt.html

Ok, thanks Ripemeat. Here's the kit he's talking about which comes with a solid flywheel. Is the WRX flywheel and stage 1 clutch setup significantly better?

 

[ame=http://www.amazon.com/EXEDY-FJK1001FW-OEM-Replacement-Clutch/dp/B002EO2YR2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1357160000&sr=8-1&keywords=FJK1001FW]http://www.amazon.com/EXEDY-FJK1001FW-OEM-Replacement-Clutch/dp/B002EO2YR2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1357160000&sr=8-1&keywords=FJK1001FW[/ame]

You may want to check with Mike at AZPinstalls.com in NJ. He may be able to give you a better package price with the install.

 

He will also give you better customer service and get you what you need the first time around.

Ok, thanks Ripemeat. Here's the kit he's talking about which comes with a solid flywheel. Is the WRX flywheel and stage 1 clutch setup significantly better?

 

http://www.amazon.com/EXEDY-FJK1001FW-OEM-Replacement-Clutch/dp/B002EO2YR2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1357160000&sr=8-1&keywords=FJK1001FW

 

The oem replacement is also on import image's site. the stage 1 will be able to handle anything you want and hopefully last longer. the flywheel you have currently, and all 05-06 lgt's is dual mass. which means it cant practically be resurfaced(which is what you should be doing every clutch replacement) and is super heavy. so you'd either need to leave it as is with the probably hot spots on it, or buy a new one.

 

a single mass flywheel is lighter which is less rotating mass on the assembly and engine and allows for a little better accel. it's also dirt cheap, a direct bolt-on fit, and IS resurfaceable for future clutches. the 5mt for the 06+ wrx is nearly identical (06-08 wrx had weaker gears than 05+ lgt's but clutch and engine fitment is identical). for the price, the stage 1 exedy for the wrx is the way to go.

I really like the feel of my WRX flywheel which was installed about 1.5k miles ago. Freer revving and smoother to engage... no real increase in gear noise for me either.

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/anyone-using-exedy-fjk1001fw-clutch-flywheel-packagei-156050.html

 

I have this kit, good price but I'd go with wrx FW if I could do it again.

Thanks everybody for your feedback. king_j, thanks for the link, that thread was really helpful. Not sure why I didn't find it when I searched yesterday.

Okay, so I got my car back after the clutch replacement. I like the feel much better, but my check engine light came on before I made it home. I took it back to the mechanic and he pulled the code.

 

I had a misfire on cylinder #4 and he says it's a coincidence that it happened right after the clutch, which may be true. He reset the code and I picked it up today, but it happened came on again on the way home.

 

I'm going to change the plugs--I got the car 15k ago (now have 95k) and I don't know if they've been changed. But I have my doubts. My cousin (who is teaches auto mechanics at a vo-tech and used to be a mechanic at Fred Bean Saab) says vacuum hoses and whatnot need to be disconnected in order to replace the clutch. They may have failed to reconnect something that could cause a misfire.

 

Any thoughts?

when you change the plugs do a compression test at the same. You might be lucky its just a bad plug or coil, but often with subarus and misfire its a blown ringland = rebuild time.