need some direction and advice

Hey Guys, I bought my 05 LGT 5MT back in January with 102k on it from a small used car dealership in Waterbury, CT. I have 113k on it now, timing belt and 4 wheel alignment was serviced as I was purchasing the car. I spent the first 5 months back and forth with a Subaru Dealership minutes from where I work after learning that I had an issue with oil consumption. (Dino oil in the Car) got to the point where I had to sign off on a authorization for an engine tear down( August). Subaru said that there was more than likely oil blow by in one of the cylinders and that was causing the over consumption. Subaru Tech found cams scorned on drivers side of engine and #4 wrist pin with movement as well as heat marks in cylinder...Tech also noted turbo shaft has play and is worn.

 

Used engine thru Subaru was out of the question.

New Short block with all that entails...out the door $6800. Problem is that I didn't have $6800 laying around. lol...Yeah let me just write you a check...like I could do that.smh, so my only other option due to the fact that it’s my DD I really had no choice but to have Subaru put it back together after 3 weeks without a car. In the time since getting my car back from Subaru I have put in a radiator, crank pulley and replaced the belts, but for some reason this car is running good. The idle is smooth, no knocking, and no engine lights. I have been on top of maintaining the oil levels( Subaru recommended 10w-40) I've been trying really hard to stay out of boost and shift under 4k rpm’s....Not easy to do owning one of these Cars!!!

the 30 day payoff on the car is about $6100, so I'm married to this car and I’m fine with that, because I absolutely have fallen in love with this car. Despite the aforementioned.

Do I seek out confirmation ( second opinion if you will) of what Subaru found by having a compression test done elsewhere?

In the mean time would it make any sense at all to knock the ECU of the stock tune? I have read in the forums here that the stock tune causes #2 and #4 to run lean in boost as well as burn up the valves .I know that Damage already exist. Could it help prolong the life of the engine while I try to make it until March?

Lastly, does anyone know of a solid engine builder here in Ct and could point me in the right direction? I have called” The Shop “ in Norwalk and they want $7500 OTD, called Pruven performance in Milford, they want $6900 OTD, and I also called a subie specialist in Brandford, he was talking $6400 OTD…? My income tax and property tax returns will be available in March, combined somewhere in the ball park of $5900

IDK these prices seem sky high. What do you guys think?

My goals for the car (outside of the engine and turbo) are to slightly mod it. Definitely get it off the stock tune, and add bolt-ons when I can. My apologies for the long post

See my Shopping List for what you can expect to spend.

 

However, as shops go, those estimates are about on-par, and, honestly, fair prices. I'm upward of 7k after my rebuild. These aren't cheap cars, and they don't get any cheaper as the years roll by, or, the higher your power goals get.

You can have a compression test done, if you like, however, it's only gonna tell you what you already know: You've got bottom-end damage. You need a new shortblock, there's no way around it. Buck up and pay the $6k+, or cut your losses and move on.

 

Getting it tuned isn't going to help it age well, in fact, even a conservative wastegate tune will only serve to hasten your motor's inevitable death.

 

Sorry to be the bearer of bad news.

Thanks man! realistically, aside from you having a crystal ball, how long before the inevitable could happen? as far as bucking up the 6k+... I'm all in, just not much i can do until the funds are available in March. I hope some guys from here in Ct chime in on a proven shop with a good reputation. It would make me feel a bit easier when the time comes to drop that kind of money. Great rebuild shopping/build thread!!!

There are a few members around your area. They may know a local repair shop.

 

You may want to contact Mike at http://www.AZPinstalls.com he has a shop in northern NJ, that might be able to save you some money on the R&R. email him.

 

You can read my story in my click here link in my sig.

Thanks man! realistically, aside from you having a crystal ball, how long before the inevitable could happen? as far as bucking up the 6k+... I'm all in, just not much i can do until the funds are available in March. I hope some guys from here in Ct chime in on a proven shop with a good reputation. It would make me feel a bit easier when the time comes to drop that kind of money. Great rebuild shopping/build thread!!!

 

Honestly, if you're at all interested in not only learning TONS about your car but, subsequently being able to be like me and dispense advice to others in your (former) shoes, you'll want to take on the challenge yourself.

 

It'll cost you more time, but you're apt to save at least $1000 on labor (probably more) by clearing out the garage, borrowing a commuter car for a couple of months, and ordering and installing the parts yourself. If you've got a basic set of metrics and even a half-ass (read: Harbor Freight) impact and compressor, you can do this. Well, except for the cam gears, but, we'll let you deal with that when you get to it.

 

There are SO MANY guys here who are driving around in really expensive cars that they haven't turned a wrench on. They sat awkwardly in the waiting room, or lurked behind their mechanic and BS'd about, "Yeah, bro, I read about that on the internet", and they really don't know (or care) to work on their own cars. (But they're still here talking about the next big turbo they "need")

 

Sure, their shit goes fast, but, where's the pride in that? Where's the bond between man and machine? Motoring is more than just bolting on parts and riding out into the sunset; it's being able to build, play/race, diagnose, fix/repair, and rinse, repeat until man or machine dies or gives up.

 

I can honestly say that I built my shit. I was the first one to turn the key and bring it to life. My heart was pounding, it was hot as balls that day, and I was sweating buckets. I said a little prayer before I flicked my wrist and heard it roar. It idled rock solid, and I giggled in delight. I watched my Grandmother clap for me. It was ceremonious, and, I actually shed a tear as I cracked a beer and lit a smoke in celebration. It took a long time (4 months, to be exact), and I made sacrifices -- financially and socially-- to achieve something I really wanted. You've got the option, just like we all had, to write the car off and get something else.

 

But if you choose to save it and put in the work, the rewards are certainly there. It's an experience like no other, and, at the end of it, you'll look back on the journey and realize that there's something magical about what transpired: You became better than nearly every STi owner you'll ever meet.

 

I don't really know how to close such a heartfelt blurb, but, uh, seriously, you should do the work yourself. I'm nearly positive you won't regret it.

 

As for shops, well, you'll need a good machine shop. Max Capacity is in CT, I think, and he recommends Eastwood's (again, I think.) Look 'em up. Everything you could possibly need to know or see during an engine rebuild, you'll get between his and my threads -

How long 'til it blows? Sheeeeiiiiiit, son. Lemme put it this way: If you're all set to buy a new block in March, then you've alleviated like, 90% of the anxiety that comes with the builds. Ride it til it quits. The closer you get to being able to tear it down, the harder you can drive it.

Honestly, if you're at all interested in not only learning TONS about your car but, subsequently being able to be like me and dispense advice to others in your (former) shoes, you'll want to take on the challenge yourself.

 

That's a terrifying thought.

 

 

Jokes aside, MrTris know's wtf is going on.

 

Your car is a time bomb. It could blow tomorrow or 5 years from now.

 

If you can turn a wrench and know how a little RTV goes a long way, you can build the block up from the shortblock. You might want to outsource the heads though. Oh, and for the love of Subaru, PRIME YOUR ENGINE (AND TURBO) WITH OIL BEFORE TURNING IT ON.

 

Key word: "vacation pics"

Thanks so much guys, MrTris after reading your awe inspiring post, I was yelling into my screen.."Put me in Coach!!!" lmao..all kidding aside, I'm just not sure I would be capable of taking on such a huge endeavor, screw something up and be out a second engine, however over the course of the last few months I have come to appreciate and love putting some skin into the game (literally) prior to owning this LGT I never really was interested working on my cars. Not that its much of an accomplishment, but I installed a new radiator, crank pulley and Belts, just sanded down and painted the rear calipers and replaced the rear pads this past weekend. I'll end up doing the fronts in a week or two. Shit is a lot of fun!!!

Max capacity Northern NJ is a little farther than I would like if I could avoid it, but with that being said I will still take the advice and see what Mike has to say, and I will check out your engine build link. I grew up in the NW corner of Ct. (Sharon, Ct.) if you know somebody between there and Tolland...LMK

If you can do all that, it's only a few steps further to really do a teardown and rebuild. To be honest, if you can just buy the new shortblock and gasket kit, have the heads sent out for service, and then bolt everything back up, you can do it. Just takes a little patience (although, that's the fun part, really) and paying attention to what you're doing. Most stuff really only fits one way.

 

Now, remembering whether or not you put teflon tape on the galley plug, or if you put a seal behind the oil pump... Those are the things sleepless nights are made of, especially after you've already sealed the damn thing up.

Both my trusted shops are in Somersville CT Eastwoods auto machine. Great family owned machine highly respected by the dealers and repair shops in N central CT, dealers from Hartford send there stuff to them.

 

Colonial Tire & Brake on Rt190, my wagon is there now, my dad went there in the early 1980's.

If you can do all that, it's only a few steps further to really do a teardown and rebuild. To be honest, if you can just buy the new shortblock and gasket kit, have the heads sent out for service, and then bolt everything back up, you can do it. Just takes a little patience (although, that's the fun part, really) and paying attention to what you're doing. Most stuff really only fits one way.

 

Now, remembering whether or not you put teflon tape on the galley plug, or if you put a seal behind the oil pump... Those are the things sleepless nights are made of, especially after you've already sealed the damn thing up.

 

Or forgot a banjo bolt with a new/removed filter and saw it sitting on the work bench after the timing cover was on

Or forgot a banjo bolt with a new/removed filter and saw it sitting on the work bench after the timing cover was on

 

Or forgetting to tighten down one of the timing cover bolts and not realized until just about everything in front of them was installed

OP, I'm sorry to hear of all the issues, but you seem to have a positive attitude which will serve you well.

 

Here's my experience as a relative newb who just did a motor swap. I bought an outback with blown motor and turbo so I knew what was needed going in. I'm at about $10,000, including the cost of the car.

 

I have a friend who's done this a few times who helpede me out, so I had some guidance. Had I not had that help, I probably would have been too intimidated to take on the project. Looking back though, there really wasn't anything THAT difficult. If you have the tools, some mechnical skills, torque specs, and someone who can lend a hand with the heavy lifting, its doable. Problem is time. You'll be learning as you go and doing a lot researching so it will take a long time. If your estimating one month, it will take three. You'll need other transportation for quite a while. Keep in mind its getting chilly and unless you have a heated garage you'll be miserable.

 

What I might consider is pick up a beater for winter. Than you won't have to stress about getting it done by any particular date and can take your time. Don't drive the legacy much until the spring time when you have the money for the rebuild. than you can either have shop do the work and sell the beater when you're done, or build a new motor yourself and have the beater for transportation.

 

I can tell you it is very rewarding turning the key after doing a swap yourself. I take a lot of pride in what I accomplished. If you can swing it, I'd definitely suggest doing it yourself.

Efi logics is in Bethel CT. They have a good rep for a tuner. I would call and just talk to them but there are a lot of guys on here to help you on your adventure. MrTris, Compsurge, max, and many more.

I wouldn't pay someone to switch the heads on a new block. It's scary but there is a plethora of info on how to do it. Max capacity has the service manual for our cars let me see if I can find it...

http://people.csail.mit.edu/ilh/vacation/

OP I see My shops are a drive for you. But if you plan it out, even do what I did, take them the new ej257 and your old long block and parts, have them assemble the ej257 as a long block, you could do it in two trips.

 

Read my click here link.

OP I see My shops are a drive for you. But if you plan it out, even do what I did, take them the new ej257 and your old long block and parts, have them assemble the ej257 as a long block, you could do it in two trips.

 

Read my click here link.

Max are you saying to purchase the ej257 instead of the ej255? Top of my engine has a plate that reads ej25...am i missing a digit? I have decided that I am going to have a shop do the rebuild for me( haven't found one yet, but I have time), as much as I would like to take pride in taking on and completely such a task, I not up to it...too much could go wrong and it's really not something I would have the time to do, besides A beater car would be money out of my pocket that would have gone towards the rebuild. Question about pistons...if I ordered forged pistons for the rebuild, would that be something the builder could swap out with the OEM pistons that come with the new Shortblock? and if so, would that be more labor tacked onto the build?

You want the EJ257. The 255 is stock, but you can exchange for the better block in your rebuild.

 

Ask the builder about the pistons. If they aren't willing to answer your questions, they aren't worth handing money over to.

You want the EJ257. The 255 is stock, but you can exchange for the better block in your rebuild.

 

Ask the builder about the pistons. If they aren't willing to answer your questions, they aren't worth handing money over to.

 

They're identical, save for the piston dish. Same case halves, same rods, bearings, same pistons, just a different dish.

You want the EJ257. The 255 is stock, but you can exchange for the better block in your rebuild.

 

Ask the builder about the pistons. If they aren't willing to answer your questions, they aren't worth handing money over to.

Thanks man! I'm going to start calling around some more. How do I identify my block? my previous post I mentioned that the plate on my engine reads ej25.

It's a 255. There is no difference between the two other than the piston.

It's a 255. There is no difference between the two other than the piston.

 

This.

 

Also, I would seriously rethink drop-in forged pistons; they need specific PTW (piston-to-wall) clearances that a stock block won't have. Think of the pistons like shoes that have memory foam in the soles -- they're fit to the foot (the block), not the other way around.

 

Honestly, unless you have a specific application for forged pistons, you don't need them. A daily driver (and your only car!) doesn't need them. The OEM shortblock will be just fine if you run a good tune. Moreover, it will take less time and cost less at the machine shop than having them mess with it.

I'm experiencing a slight screeching noise with the clutch is fully engaged to the floor...nothing horrible, when the car is cold. Once the car warms up to temp it's gone and its not everyday. It started at the beginning of the week. I Noticed too while the noise is happening that if I let the clutch out just a little from the floor it stops. TOB? Clutch in need of an adjustment? I will be factoring in a clutch replacement on this build regardless.

This.

 

Also, I would seriously rethink drop-in forged pistons; they need specific PTW (piston-to-wall) clearances that a stock block won't have. Think of the pistons like shoes that have memory foam in the soles -- they're fit to the foot (the block), not the other way around.

 

Honestly, unless you have a specific application for forged pistons, you don't need them. A daily driver (and your only car!) doesn't need them. The OEM shortblock will be just fine if you run a good tune. Moreover, it will take less time and cost less at the machine shop than having them mess with it.

Ok, thanks for the input! which leads to my next question. given that it's my DD and only car,is it a realistic goal to obtain 300whp without having to Mod the shit out it? would the stock Block and pistons handle that type of increase or am I way off? forgive my ignorance...My passion is not backed by much subie knowledge.