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5 speed swap no start nss wiring problems


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ok so i followed iluvdirts swap guide usin auto inhibitor switch plug and only usin pins 9-12. 9-10 being reverse lights which is right but the pins 11-12 for nss part of it makes no sense to me, if the whole point of using auto plug is for cleaner install then why did he route the wires for nss through firewall to pedal. and later in his post he says it was was wrong cut jumper wire from ecu ran that to pedal then to ground and left wires from pedal to nss on tranny makes no sense to me. i have the nss on tranny goin to 11-12 on inhibitor switch. basiclly i made a jumper from auto to manual using manual plugs for nss and reverse lights( one end of jumper is my stock auto plug and one end is manual plugs from donor). from here i dont know what to do and i feel he made more work and more wires then needs to be and has it rigged up wrong even tho it works.
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Here it is Prolly wrong. now the 2 question marks what do i do with them? they are red/yellow and the blue/red. the above link from zues the person made a jumper for plug n play w mt relay i between em one side to ign and the other side went to wherever they go through factory harness. im lost hate wires period

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ok so im over thinking this way to much i just looked my wires sitting on the floor n said i got it. lol holy shit all i gotta do is cut the blue/red on my stock harness and splice blue/red from mt relay to one end and red yellow from stock harness and splice it to the other side of blue/red. correct me if im wrong cuz the mt relay just needs to be in between
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ok so auto inhibitor switch plug pins 9-10 reverse ok works fine. 11-12 spliced togther. 1-4 to neutral switch on tranny. got starter to engage but not turning car over sounds like its grinding almost. i pulled starter n grounded it to shock n bumped starter n it engages all the way out n spins fine, does it need to be shimmed maybe tranny is from 96 impreza outback 2.2, and flywheel n clutch n starter from 98 legacy 2.2..... . and reason using used is its my friends car that had major rust issues so we have been parting it out and using parts for our cars when needed and clutch and flywheel we put in less then a oil change ago and its oem flywheel from subaru dealer next door to our shop and exedy clutch kit and i got new bearings n shim for bearing. battery is fine reads 12.42v and all gounds are new.
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yea grounded identifier pin i think its was 81 took it out of parts car added it to harness grounded it to bracket that ecu mounts to...... how come on subaru international forums they say mt not grounded and 4eat is the fsm i have from subaru dealer next door says mt are grounded and its pin 81
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Here's my take on it. Install a button under the dash. Find a source that is only hot when the switch is on, run that to one side of the button. Run the other side to the clutch safety switch. From the other terminal on the clutch switch, go out the firewall and to the starter. Done. Get in car, turn switch on, push clutch and press button.
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ok. turned motor a lil bit and starter is working fine but now my electrical problem is back so i got something back feeding power throughout whole car thought maybe it was ignition changed it still doin it lost fuel pump but it works when i connect to battery have power to sending unit. key off and out of ignition everything works in the car but radio even w key off n out ign something is back feeding maybe main relay is bad
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update time. changed main relay still backfeeding power through out car all fuses good switched ignition didnt help, all of the swap is done and complete and this issue isnt related at all i know this because the day i went to pull it in the garage to start the swap it started doin it something isnt right and i noticed my temp gauge is way past hot maxed out and car hasnt been started in over a week, i can use heater turn my lights on use turn signals and fuel pump stays running w key off and out, before this swap i swapped intake manifold from manual 2.2 w/o egr cuz i deleted it and planned on using ecu from 5 speed, i changed one plug that was different on the harness same wires n colors just different plug style. and i used the sensors from 5 speed im drove it for few miles ran fine
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delete this thread lol im so dumb started chasing problem and went to check ground by coil from engine harness and it was loose so i tightened it and everything is fine runs awesome no cel at all yet and future reference, wiring for the swap is use auto inhibitor switch plug splice 11-12 together, 9-10 are reverse lights, 1-4 to nss on tranny cuz 1-4 is the ign/starter signal wire, then inside the car use mt relay and cut blue/red wire from ignition and wire b/r from mt switch to b/r from ign wire other end the b/r the r/y gets spliced to it, g/y from mt switch to clutch switch g/y, black from clucth switch to ground, and add a wirre/pin to 81 on ecu and ground it wiring done and complete confusing at first but easy as hell when u dont over think and read through your fsm for hours, thanks for your help zues much appreciated
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Here is where I got a lot of my info.

http://sl-i.net/FORUM/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=26690&p=320785#p320785

Check and make sure you have it wired correctly as that link says for the starter.

Also your NSS wires will be totally separate. One runs to a ground and another runs to pin 82 on the ecu.

You only use 4 wires off the big connector that use to go to the auto trans and 2 of them are for the reverse switch and the other 2 run to the starter relay.

There is also 2 wires that you need to connect together that use to go to the auto shifter.

 

Hope that helps

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