Head Gasket replacement

Can anyone forward me to a thread on how to replace the head gaskets on a 98 Legacy Gt? It seems the sticky was deleted and never replaced.

 

Iv got the valve covers off. Now it looks like the cams need to come out. But the head bolts look unusual. Doesn't seem like a standard 6 point socket will fit them. Is there a special took required?

 

Any help is appreciated

The best info I can find it that its a 12point 14mm.

Like to know is someone can confirm or deny before I go and buy a 12point set

The head bolts are indeed 12pt 14mm. Try the search function. So many HG replacement threads.

If you haven't removed the T belt. Block the engine from turning so that you can crack the cam pulley bolts. If you have, use an open end wrench on the camshaft flats.

On install use the hash marks for lining up, never the arrows.

 

O.

Thanks osei!

Got the heads out. And didn't have to move the AC or power steering, so that was nice.

 

So my next question is to mill or not to mill?

I wasn't planning it on when I started this job, but I talk to a buddy and said I'm an idiot if I don't. You can't see any deep scoring, but I don't have microscopes for eyes so I'm sure there's wear on them.

 

Also for anyone reading this post because they are going to do the same job. Make sure you have a short 14mm 12 point because you will run into some space issues on the drives side head if the engines still in the car like mine is.

See:http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/122588-diy-head-resurfacing-or-post-apocalyptic-machine-shop-techniques/....For DIY head resurfacing.

The general consensus I've seen is unless the block has been overheated it does not need to be milled. I have personally done about a dozen HG (some overheated) and have not had the block milled. It takes a hell of a lot to warp a block.

FSM's are available. http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/subaru_manual_scans/

 

O.

im doing the same job with the motor out of the car, i had the heads milled because there was gap when checked. i didnt see a gap on the block side, so its just getting cleaned up. i would at least have the block checked for warping/ gap so the work isnt for naught. im doing the work myself with the FSM that is stickied at the top of the forum, but i have watched a few youtube videos also. some are pointless, some had decent tips.

Always mill the heads. The block should be fine. I have only seen 1 warped block.

I have a pretty reputable head shop I use in st Louis. They know me so well, the check was free, and I didn't need to mill. 4000 miles in, and good so far

I personally always get the heads milled and I always check the condition of the block. If the head gaskets are not original there is the chance the previous guy to do them created low spots due to inproper block prep. The machine shop I go to charges $120 for a set of heads and gets them absolutely perfect every time. He also only charges $75 more for the block as well so if you want to pay the little extra to have the security the head gasket will never ever fail again then thats the route. Also use a decent gasket, get NEW head bolts, and make sure they are torqued PROPERLY(proper torque instructions can be found online) Also you should use eithr antiseize or 30weight oil on the head bolts. But do not stick head bolts soaked in oil dripping all over the place straight into the heads because the oil will create pressure when heated up and can CRACK the heads. So let them drip first. Use assembly lube on reinstalation of the camshafts. Good luck! Have done over 10 subaru head gasket replacements following these guidelines and none have failed again.

How does that guy only charge $70 to mill the block? Unless he is leaving all the internals in place? And if that is the case I'd be concerned about metal shavings.

I dont know exactly what his procedure is but all i know is he has been in the machine shop business for over 30 years and has worked by himself without a single employee the entire time. He is like an old crazy wizard who was recommened to be the best of the best by several different people to me. He has never advertised his business only through word of mouth. Everyone ive ever known to get something done by him has never found a flaw in his work only that he is a little slow at getting things back quick and doesnt like to answer the phone

Wish he was closer!

Shop near me wanted $140 to just hot tank a block! I didn't even bother to ask how much to turn a crank!

 

O.

I met a crazy machinist recently too. He showed me some of his awesome projects. Like a scale model of the water pump for most of London at the turn of the century, a model t ford, a small RC bulldozer he built from scratch with a two speed automatic transmission. The torque converter was the size of a quarter!!! He was also slow as hell to get work done, lol.

 

If you set up the block just right and took precautions and stuff the cylinders with towels you could probably keep things clean during machining. Heck, I rebuilt a 22t in a parking lot and it's still running strong, lol.

 

Where I live if you split the block yourself and take the case halves to a machine shop expect to pay $120-160 to be decked, $150-180 for a bore and hone (just a hone $60), $40-60 for a hot tank.

Here's my thread for my head gasket replacement...

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/99-lego-engine-teardown-232101.html?t=232101

For the life of me I cannot find my timing belt guide. Nor can I remember taking it off. It has been about a month since I started the process. But I'm racking my brain trying to remember. Is there a possibility that my engine doesn't have a timing belt guide? If so what keeps the timing belt from slipping around?

 

Just for the record I did have my heads milled. It was just under $75 a head for cleaning and resurfacing

Thanks for all your help so far folks!

 

Also I didn't crack the crankshaft pully before I started. Found a little secret about the opening into the flywheel which allowed me to stop the flywheel from moving and I was able to break it loose!

there is no guide.

check your messages.

I met a crazy machinist recently too. He showed me some of his awesome projects. Like a scale model of the water pump for most of London at the turn of the century, a model t ford, a small RC bulldozer he built from scratch with a two speed automatic transmission. The torque converter was the size of a quarter!!! He was also slow as hell to get work done, lol.

Amazing what people can do (small v12):

 

there is no guide.

check your messages.

 

there is a guide on some manual transmissions newer than 98. actually, a few guides. i dont know why the guides only show for the manual transmission, but i know they are listed in the steps in prodemand software.

So I got it all back together, started right up, but it's running really rough.

 

When I first started the idle was bouncing from 2k down to 500. Eventually, after about 30 seconds the idle will even out at 1500rpms.

 

If I try to put a load on the engine (drive or reverse) the idle drops really low to the point where the car will stall out.

When I put it together I double/triple/quadruple checked all the timing marks. So I'm debating taking it apart and re doing the timing. But I also really feel like it could be a tps or Maf problem. I'd like to hear if you guys have any suggestions before I drain the coolant out and pull the timing apart again!

check vacuum lines and the iacv? if the idle is bouncing, thats the first place i would start.