minuccims Posted June 17, 2014 Share Posted June 17, 2014 With the Whiteline 3-way adjustable, the kartboys are 1-too long and you have to rotate the spring perch. With Bilsteins, the rear needs to be slightly raised so the end link bolt does not interfere with the perch. 2- on the stiff setting, the angle is not the best. Since there is no rotation on the top of the end link that secures to the RSB, the bolt puts a compressive pressure on the upper poly bushing. This year the poly bushing failed. For an single or double adjustment bar, the angle is fine. So an endlink with adjustability to align the angle is adventagous. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
btran1384 Posted June 25, 2014 Share Posted June 25, 2014 I have bilstein with rce black combo.... I've noticed that the wheel gap (top of tire to fender) in the front is more than back. Back struts were left as is from RCE....did not alter height...didn't know how lol About 1 finger's worth...i know...very scientific. Car looks level though... Anyone experience this? Or should I take it all apart and reassemble. Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlueLGT408 Posted June 26, 2014 Share Posted June 26, 2014 (edited) Fortune 500's ordered, sway bar, shifter bushing w/ washer have already been delivered, and waiting on downpipe to ship. Then I just need to get back to the states and have a day in the garage. Edited June 26, 2014 by BlueLGT408 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
btran1384 Posted June 26, 2014 Share Posted June 26, 2014 ^ give us a review of the 500 once they're installed Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
minuccims Posted June 27, 2014 Share Posted June 27, 2014 I have bilstein with rce black combo.... I've noticed that the wheel gap (top of tire to fender) in the front is more than back. Back struts were left as is from RCE....did not alter height...didn't know how lol About 1 finger's worth...i know...very scientific. Car looks level though... Anyone experience this? Or should I take it all apart and reassemble. Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk The rear is adjustable in 5mm increments. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DrD123 Posted June 27, 2014 Share Posted June 27, 2014 I've noticed that the wheel gap (top of tire to fender) in the front is more than back.That's how most cars are - the front wheel well is more open (larger gap) than the rear. Some lowering springs drop the front further than the rear to achieve the uniform look (and if you look at the side of the cars with such kits, you can see they are now leaning forward and the sideskirt is not straight) The RCEs are supposed to give the same drop front and rear, so the delta between the front and rear is preserved. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlueLGT408 Posted June 27, 2014 Share Posted June 27, 2014 Will do, I went with 7k/6k spring rates because i'm looking into doing auto-x. But Somezero seemed to be very happy with his. I should be back stateside in a couple weeks and will let y'all know. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
feesh Posted June 28, 2014 Share Posted June 28, 2014 (edited) How much shock compression travel should we have on these cars when sitting at static ride height? I have acquired some AST 4100's (Mann engineering type-25's, thanks to Gteaser for the heads up) that have 5K springs on the fronts. I have measured the distance from the bump stop to the top of the shock body (surface that it will make contact with) and it measures 4.5" with the shock fully extended. My current Tanabe coilovers compress 2.5" with 6k springs on the fronts. I am working on the assumption that a 5k spring will be compressed 20% further than a 6k spring (6k is 20% stiffer than 5k). That will make the front compress 3" with the new AST shocks and their 5k springs. Is 1.5" of remaining compression travel (not including bump stop travel) enough? Or should I stick with 6k springs which will add about .5" of compression travel back? Edited June 28, 2014 by feesh Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GravityGear Posted June 28, 2014 Share Posted June 28, 2014 How much shock compression travel should we have on these cars when sitting at static ride height? I have acquired some AST 4100's (Mann engineering type-25's) that have 5K springs on the fronts. I have measured the distance from the bump stop to the top of the shock body (surface that it will make contact with) and it measures 4.5" with the shock fully extended. My current Tanabe coilovers compress 2.5" with 6k springs on the fronts. I am working on the assumption that a 5k spring will be compressed 20% further than a 6k spring (6k is 20% stiffer than 5k). That will make the front compress 3" with the new AST shocks and their 5k springs. Is 1.5" of remaining compression travel (not including bump stop travel) enough? Or should I stick with 6k springs which will add about .5" of compression travel back? you have swifts? how much adjustment do you have left on your perch before you fully crush the helper? pics? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
feesh Posted June 28, 2014 Share Posted June 28, 2014 Hey Gravity. I do not have Swifts on the AST's. They came with CG springs. I haven't adjusted the ride height yet on the AST's but that 4.5" of measured compression travel is with the shaft fully extended so I'd have to fully compress the helper springs when setting the height to maintain that travel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fredrik94087 Posted June 28, 2014 Share Posted June 28, 2014 You may do away with the helper springs if the main spring has no play when wheel is completely off the ground. "It's within spec" - SOA "Depth is only shallowness viewed from the side." - Fredism "So, how much did it cost for your car to be undriveable ." - Stephen (very close friend) "You have done so much it would be stupid to go back." - Sunny of Guru Electronics 2018Q50RS | 2015WrxThread | Shrek Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GravityGear Posted June 28, 2014 Share Posted June 28, 2014 (edited) You may do away with the helper springs if the main spring has no play when wheel is completely off the ground. yes, this accomplishes the task of keeping the main seated, but does preload the main some causing a slight change in the actual rate of the spring. This is the reason helpers are used. BUT we aren't talking a competition setup here, so if you go this route, just make sure the perches are at the same height from passenger to driver sides. feesh, this is the exact issue I dealt with when setting up my suspension. The shop was able to get everything set up and proper after about 4 hours. I know that your goal is to have a well handling, supple daily, so I would top that perch out and just call it a day. Those shocks will already provide some drop as they are shorter than the stock setup. getting rid of the helper is your call. Edited June 28, 2014 by GravityGear Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
feesh Posted June 28, 2014 Share Posted June 28, 2014 You may do away with the helper springs if the main spring has no play when wheel is completely off the ground. I could do that but it won't have any impact on compression travel on my setup as the springs are linear and I'll be maxing out the height. I don't have any issues with the perches rubbing the tires either as you did. yes, this accomplishes the task of keeping the main seated, but does preload the main some causing a slight change in the actual rate of the spring. This is the reason helpers are used. BUT we aren't talking a competition setup here, so if you go this route, just make sure the perches are at the same height from passenger to driver sides. feesh, this is the exact issue I dealt with when setting up my suspension. The shop was able to get everything set up and proper after about 4 hours. I know that your goal is to have a well handling, supple daily, so I would top that perch out and just call it a day. Those shocks will already provide some drop as they are shorter than the stock setup. getting rid of the helper is your call. Yep, I had the same issues with the Tanabe's. Had to fully compress the helpers and had to change from 5k to 6k springs to keep off the bump stops on big bumps. I never measured the available compression travel on them though so that's why I'm asking the question beforehand for the AST's. I won't have that number for the Tanabe's until I remove them. I just have a full droop and a normal ride height measurement from the bottom of the top mount to the top of the spring perch. With 6k springs, it's a 2.5" difference. So, you think the 1.5" of available compression travel before hitting the bump stop is enough or should I order a set of 6k springs to get another .5"? Unfortunately, I can't re-use the one's off the Tanabe's as the diameter is different. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GravityGear Posted June 28, 2014 Share Posted June 28, 2014 personally, i would go 6k. 5k seems way too soft for such a large car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigBopper Posted June 29, 2014 Share Posted June 29, 2014 I have bilstein with rce black combo.... I've noticed that the wheel gap (top of tire to fender) in the front is more than back. Back struts were left as is from RCE....did not alter height...didn't know how lol About 1 finger's worth...i know...very scientific. Car looks level though... Anyone experience this? Or should I take it all apart and reassemble. Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk Need more information: How many hookers are in the trunk. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
feesh Posted June 29, 2014 Share Posted June 29, 2014 personally, i would go 6k. 5k seems way too soft for such a large car. Agreed. I prefer as much travel as I can get. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GravityGear Posted June 29, 2014 Share Posted June 29, 2014 Agreed. I prefer as much travel as I can get. Compression travel is great but dont neglect rebound travel as it plays a huge part in your ride comfort and control. If your suspension cannot track the dips in the road its just as bad as not having the dampening to track the bumps. Keeping the chassis neutral and being able to reset its self will give you that solid feel and comfort. How did you like your 6k springs on you tanabe struts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
btran1384 Posted June 29, 2014 Share Posted June 29, 2014 The rear is adjustable in 5mm increments. As far as I know....its on the highest setting..didn't do anything out of the box. Try to mess with it...but couldn't figure adjustment...so just left it as is Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlueLGT408 Posted June 29, 2014 Share Posted June 29, 2014 As this will be my first coilover install, any pointers and or suggestions as to settings? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GravityGear Posted June 29, 2014 Share Posted June 29, 2014 As this will be my first coilover install, any pointers and or suggestions as to settings? What are you installing? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlueLGT408 Posted June 29, 2014 Share Posted June 29, 2014 (edited) Fortune 500's w/ swift springs 7k/6k along with a 22mm whiteline RSB Also probably a stupid question and I haven't seen anything, but are there any other supporting mods needed to do coilovers? I don't believe there are just want to be sure i'm doing it right the first time around. Thanks Edited July 2, 2014 by BlueLGT408 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ncfree Posted July 4, 2014 Share Posted July 4, 2014 (edited) has anyone tried out the cusco front strut tower bar for our car????? i found the part numbers and it seems that the front also matches with the 08 wrx. check it. part numbers http://www.cuscousainc.com/vehicle-results.html?make=182&modelname=666&year=162 front 687 540 a rear http://www.rallysportdirect.com/Cusco-Rear-Strut-Tower-Bar-Type-OS-Subaru-WRX-STI-2008-2011 quick releases: http://www.rallysportdirect.com/Cusco-00B-540-C-Strut-Tower-Brace-Type-OS-Quick-Release-Clamps how do these compare with the gt spec ones only problem is the rear sits so high!!! rear fitment is already confirmed…. anyone have a front fitment confirmation? edit gt spec part numbers and parts http://www.gtspec.com/catalog/products-car/subaru/2010-legacy-gt front http://www.gtspec.com/product/gtspec-front-strut-brace-subaru-legacy-gt-and-outback-2010 rear http://www.gtspec.com/product/gtspec-rear-strut-brace-2010-legacy-outback the gt spec front one seems to start higher and have less bend in the bar where the cusco seems to sit more flush and wrap more. Edited July 4, 2014 by ncfree Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Syndicate Posted July 4, 2014 Share Posted July 4, 2014 (edited) ...for those interested it appears that RS*R produces a coilover that may work for the 5th gen Legacy (the page states BR9, but other than the Outback that platform wasn't available in the States). I came across the info here. http://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0107/5992/products/IMG_4542_1024x1024.JPG?v=1397163049 Edited July 4, 2014 by Syndicate Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Perscitus Posted July 4, 2014 Share Posted July 4, 2014 has anyone tried out the cusco front strut tower bar for our car????? i found the part numbers and it seems that the front also matches with the 08 wrx. check it. part numbers http://www.cuscousainc.com/vehicle-results.html?make=182&modelname=666&year=162 front http://www.rallysportdirect.com/Cusco-692-540-A-Front-Strut-Tower-Bar-Type-OS rear http://www.rallysportdirect.com/Cusco-Rear-Strut-Tower-Bar-Type-OS-Subaru-WRX-STI-2008-2011 quick releases: http://www.rallysportdirect.com/Cusco-00B-540-C-Strut-Tower-Brace-Type-OS-Quick-Release-Clamps how do these compare with the gt spec ones only problem is the rear sits so high!!! rear fitment is already confirmed…. anyone have a front fitment confirmation? edit gt spec part numbers and parts http://www.gtspec.com/catalog/products-car/subaru/2010-legacy-gt front http://www.gtspec.com/product/gtspec-front-strut-brace-subaru-legacy-gt-and-outback-2010 rear http://www.gtspec.com/product/gtspec-rear-strut-brace-2010-legacy-outback the gt spec front one seems to start higher and have less bend in the bar where the cusco seems to sit more flush and wrap more.Yup, ping nstg8r, he's got the front installed with the quick releases. I think he was going to swap the back one too to match. Both GTSpec and Cusco are very nice products, light and well made. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
g5GT Posted July 4, 2014 Share Posted July 4, 2014 FYI - last time I checked the cusco front was on backorder. May be a different story now. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now