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Where to begin with modifications to your Legacy GT


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You need to start clicking while the initial 6 ding cycle is still going. Also you need to fully lock it on each click(you can't hold down the red release button). It has to be exactly 20 clicks and leave it clicked on click #20, then turn the ignition off, count to 5 and turn it back on. The initial 6 dings will still be there, but it should't do it anymore after those 6 dings. Try it again and start the car with your belt on then take it off after the car has been running for about 30 seconds to check. Each time you do the 20 click cycle it will either turn the dinger off or back on, so if you did the cycle twice thinking that it didn't work the first time; it will turn it back on. hope this makes sense.
Let's kick this pig!
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Are you being serious with this?

 

Disable Seatbelt Warning Chime -

1) Sit in Driver Seat - Probably best to close the door in case it's needed.

2) Put the key in the ignition, but do not turn it

3) Grab your seatbelt and get it ready to clip it in

4) Now turn the ignition to "On" (don't start it!)

5) Within 30 seconds of turning the ignition to "On", completely buckle and unbuckle the seat belt 20 times. When done with this step, immediately turn the car off.

6) Turn the car back on, and it should be set.

To turn the Warning Chime back on, repeat steps 1-6.

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  • 1 month later...

I like the info provided - And I look forward to going into my garage and putting a stop to the annoying Seat Belt Beeper. It almost sounds like a nagging mother or wife - (put your seat belt on you idiot! NOW, or i will beep constantly until your brian is ready to explode)

 

Here are a couple things to also consider when tuning your LGT.

 

If you decided to run Stock Calipers on your ride (which I feel are inadequate) you may want to upgrade to the following:

 

G-Stop Braided lines.

Slotted Rotors from AP or other manufactures that produce a similar sized rotor as your stock ones. Helps ventilate better and reduces warping / weight. Please note - Not all after-market cross drilled rotors are indeed better then your stock ones so you want to pay a little more, and do some more research with the top brands. Ask questions.

Hawk Performance Pads ==> good for the moderate street racer and daily driver. Make sure NOT to Run Race Pads on your daily driver - they take a long time to heat up and they will wear out your rotors faster and poor output in the cold. (not safe)

Use a Premium fluid as well ==>any of the ones suggested in the above threads are good.

 

Helpful hints: If you can find a WRECKED WRX STI with Front and Rear Brembos - buy them! as they fit your car given you have an after-market wheel with more clearance then the 05/06 LGT stock rims. The Brembos do not Swell so basically they do not hold heat like the stock ones do which means all you need is a credit card spacing between the rim and the spokes of your wheel. The weight of your LGT is not too much more then a stock STI so the load can be handled by the upgraded Brembos. I think the 2006 STI Legacy in Japan uses the same kit - and i've asked around and a ton of people are saying that its sufficient.

 

Never activate your parking brake after you have driven your car hard for a period of time - You will apply force to one section of the stock rotors which will hold the pads clamped down, and the heat will stay in that area where pressure is being applied longer. End result, you will eventually warp your rotors and possibly have more vibration, and or fade under all driving conditions. The vibrations from warped/cracked rotors can be so bad that you may weaken the suspension from all of the vibration (ie. ball joints, tie rod ends etc). Trust me i've gone through it..

 

Suspensions Wise:

I run a full set of Bilestien HD struts with Subaru Spec B Mounts. (nice ride)

With that, I have the Cobb Stage 2 lowering kit (springs and endlinks).

Front and Rear (new generation) Cobb Sway Bars....Super Fun.

Cusco front and rear tower bars....less torsional stress on the sub frame

(please keep in mind you will still hear the creaks as the sun roof if applicable, weakens the dynamics of the car on the top end and hard to get rid of). I hope I explained that correctly so that everyone understands?

 

Cusco has a ton of other under the car mods to help create more support and rigidity. Another thing to consider and this is something that i heard from a fellow wagon lover - Is the usage of stiffer tranny mounts to support harder driving conditions and smother power transfers. Check the forums to find out more.

 

Exhaust wise:

I run a full Stainless Steel Perrin Exhaust 3" diameter with up pipe and down pipe. The rear cans produce a SICK SOUND at higher RPM's. Too loud for the average subaru guy/gal who is looking for a more sport tone sound. (Although there is a silencer kit which doesn't reduce performance for this option).

 

I myself am addicted to the sound of my wagon full out while passing M3's and g35's on the road at top speeds......No one can compare the grumble of the horizontally opposed Boxer Engine. To get that same sound out of a Porsche is next to impossible - not to mention expensive.

 

 

Be safe, have fun, and thrash on as many mitsu's as possible.

 

J-Cobb out!

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  • 3 months later...

I just picked up my spec.B a few weeks ago, so I'm new (I refuse to write n00b) to the capabilities of this car.

 

It seems the first mod everyone says to make is to get a Cobb AccessPort and retune the ECU.

 

My question is this, will installing the AccessPort and retuning the ECU decrease the gas mileage significantly? It's already mediocre at best and this is my daily driver, so while I would like to boost the power up a little bit, I don't want to do it and get the same mileage a V6 or V8 would get.

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You just wrote "n00b". Where to start with mods depends on your goals - the Cobb AP is definitely highly recommended (it's on my list of things to do once I get the cash), and from what I have read gives the biggest performance boost for the money. I have not heard of significant mileage decreases simply from reflashing the ECU. If anything causes a decrease in mileage, it is likely to be more spirited driving as a result of the newly unlocked power.

 

A lot of people, myself included, will start with free or low-cost mods, the first being the intake silencer delete + drop-in high-flow filter. It's easy, makes for a nice sound, and the car breathes noticeably better. I just installed lightweight crank and alt pulleys as well, and the car revs more freely, and seems to shift more smoothly. I like it. Anyway, as I said it depends on your goals. Have fun!

 

I just picked up my spec.B a few weeks ago, so I'm new (I refuse to write n00b) to the capabilities of this car.

 

It seems the first mod everyone says to make is to get a Cobb AccessPort and retune the ECU.

 

My question is this, will installing the AccessPort and retuning the ECU decrease the gas mileage significantly? It's already mediocre at best and this is my daily driver, so while I would like to boost the power up a little bit, I don't want to do it and get the same mileage a V6 or V8 would get.

Semper ubi sub ubi.
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I like the info provided - And I look forward to going into my garage and putting a stop to the annoying Seat Belt Beeper. It almost sounds like a nagging mother or wife - (put your seat belt on you idiot! NOW, or i will beep constantly until your brian is ready to explode)

 

Here are a couple things to also consider when tuning your LGT.

 

If you decided to run Stock Calipers on your ride (which I feel are inadequate) you may want to upgrade to the following:

 

G-Stop Braided lines.

Slotted Rotors from AP or other manufactures that produce a similar sized rotor as your stock ones. Helps ventilate better and reduces warping / weight. Please note - Not all after-market cross drilled rotors are indeed better then your stock ones so you want to pay a little more, and do some more research with the top brands. Ask questions.

Hawk Performance Pads ==> good for the moderate street racer and daily driver. Make sure NOT to Run Race Pads on your daily driver - they take a long time to heat up and they will wear out your rotors faster and poor output in the cold. (not safe)

Use a Premium fluid as well ==>any of the ones suggested in the above threads are good.

 

Helpful hints: If you can find a WRECKED WRX STI with Front and Rear Brembos - buy them! as they fit your car given you have an after-market wheel with more clearance then the 05/06 LGT stock rims. The Brembos do not Swell so basically they do not hold heat like the stock ones do which means all you need is a credit card spacing between the rim and the spokes of your wheel. The weight of your LGT is not too much more then a stock STI so the load can be handled by the upgraded Brembos. I think the 2006 STI Legacy in Japan uses the same kit - and i've asked around and a ton of people are saying that its sufficient.

 

Never activate your parking brake after you have driven your car hard for a period of time - You will apply force to one section of the stock rotors which will hold the pads clamped down, and the heat will stay in that area where pressure is being applied longer. End result, you will eventually warp your rotors and possibly have more vibration, and or fade under all driving conditions. The vibrations from warped/cracked rotors can be so bad that you may weaken the suspension from all of the vibration (ie. ball joints, tie rod ends etc). Trust me i've gone through it..

 

Suspensions Wise:

I run a full set of Bilestien HD struts with Subaru Spec B Mounts. (nice ride)

With that, I have the Cobb Stage 2 lowering kit (springs and endlinks).

Front and Rear (new generation) Cobb Sway Bars....Super Fun.

Cusco front and rear tower bars....less torsional stress on the sub frame

(please keep in mind you will still hear the creaks as the sun roof if applicable, weakens the dynamics of the car on the top end and hard to get rid of). I hope I explained that correctly so that everyone understands?

 

Cusco has a ton of other under the car mods to help create more support and rigidity. Another thing to consider and this is something that i heard from a fellow wagon lover - Is the usage of stiffer tranny mounts to support harder driving conditions and smother power transfers. Check the forums to find out more.

 

Exhaust wise:

I run a full Stainless Steel Perrin Exhaust 3" diameter with up pipe and down pipe. The rear cans produce a SICK SOUND at higher RPM's. Too loud for the average subaru guy/gal who is looking for a more sport tone sound. (Although there is a silencer kit which doesn't reduce performance for this option).

 

I myself am addicted to the sound of my wagon full out while passing M3's and g35's on the road at top speeds......No one can compare the grumble of the horizontally opposed Boxer Engine. To get that same sound out of a Porsche is next to impossible - not to mention expensive.

 

 

Be safe, have fun, and thrash on as many mitsu's as possible.

 

J-Cobb out!

 

Awesome post. Looks like fun. Thanks.

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  • 2 months later...
  • 2 months later...

Maybe I'm missing this from somewhere else, but can anyone speak to how the warranty is affected? I have an 08 GT, I don't know that much about cars (although I'm trying to learn!) and I'm thinking about pouring some money into it. Thing is, I really, really don't want to void my warranty.

I had an 05 Legacy Limited, and for some reason I remember the throw as being a little shorter. I could just be dreaming as I had to drive an automatic in-between the 05 legacy and my 08 GT, but I just feel like it's a little longer, especially going from 2nd to 3rd. So I guess the first thing I'm thinking about is an sts. I feel like I heard somewhere that if you buy a Subaru performance part, it won’t affect the warranty. Any advice?

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Maybe I'm missing this from somewhere else, but can anyone speak to how the warranty is affected? I have an 08 GT, I don't know that much about cars (although I'm trying to learn!) and I'm thinking about pouring some money into it. Thing is, I really, really don't want to void my warranty.

I had an 05 legacy, and for some reason I remember the throw as being a little shorter. I could just be dreaming as I had to drive an automatic in-between the 05 legacy and my 08 GT, but I just feel like it's a little longer, especially going from 2nd to 3rd. So I guess the first thing I'm thinking about is an sts. I feel like I heard somewhere that if you buy a Subaru performance part, it won’t affect the warranty. Any advice?

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  • 1 month later...
Do's anyone one know if my car is top feed or side feed going to by delets

 

You might want to research a little more before jumping into deletes..... but your 06 LGT has side feed injectors, to answer your (I think) question directly.

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i couldnt find any info,and yes i searched.

is a tune really NEEDED for a exhaust system? i've messed with a few cars(mustangs,srt4s,focus's)but im new to subarus

 

IMHO, no.

You do want to watch out for boost creep, however, from what I've read.

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i couldnt find any info,and yes i searched.

is a tune really NEEDED for a exhaust system? i've messed with a few cars(mustangs,srt4s,focus's)but im new to subarus

 

Not needed. However it is recommended.

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my car is a 2005

apparently these cars are completly different from other cars ive messed with.

so i should be fine with full exhaust without a tune for a while? any CEL's that will likely be triggered?

Edited by 05zx4st
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  • 10 months later...
I am new to the subbie world and I have always driven audi's in the past but now I have a 05 LGT with a 5 speed. and I need to replace the turbo. The old turbo is bad and the car has 99,000 miles on it. I am looking at replacing it with a direct bolt on unit and want to know what is the best unit to replace it with? I would like to replace it with something that would provide great driveability but also maybe be able to handle some more power than stock for future upgrades. Any suggestions. My only requirement is that it be a direct bolt on application.
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I believe VF52 turbo is your only choice for drop-in replacement... other than stock, of course.

 

The stocker can put out a good deal to start with anway, with other surrounding upgrades. Just upgrading the turbo will NOT get you more power - to get the most our of it you need a few other upgrades first... as well as a good tune. Stock tune won't get you far, and could even be unusable even with the VF52.

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