05 LGT - Flywheel bolts stripped - Need Help!

Hey guys!

 

Trying my best to tie up my transmission rebuild and hit a major roadblock a few weeks back. I've been working on it in little spurts so as not to get so upset that I do more harm than good.

 

Upon removing my pressure plate and clutch disc, I found that the stock clutch had already been replaced by a Sachs kit with single mass flywheel by the previous owner. Awesome, right?

 

Without even thinking about it, I used my T50+ to get two of the flywheel bolts out and then began having trouble with my bit biting. Upon further inspection, I found that the person who installed the new clutch used a standard T50, stripped the bolts pretty bad and in typical douchebag manner, used the same stripped bolts for reinstallation.

 

After much swearing and research, I was able to get an additional 4 out by being relatively gentle and using valve grinding compound.

 

The last two have no teeth or star left for any bit to grab.

 

Today, I picked up a set of left hand drill bits and figured I would give them a go. I started on the worse of the two bolts and slowly worked my way up in drill bit sizes until I felt I was going to hit the threads.

 

Against my better judgement and out of desperation, I went for the bolt extractor/ez out and netted the results I expected: It snapped off in the bolt.

 

I am at a total loss. Google tells me the next step is a carbide bit for the dremel to grind the EZ Out down. Fine, I'll do that.

 

Any suggestions on how to get these last two out? They're recessed, I can't weld and the car is stuck in my garage. Should I just drill them out and helicoil? Will that be suitable for a flywheel?

 

I'm in a bit of a panic as I'm in the Northeast and am dailying my S2000 with "that time of the year" upon us.

 

As a side note, I already have the WRX hex cap bolts on hand for when I put everything back together. Any help is beyond greatly appreciated.

I might have a solution for you. I ran into this issue today with my clutch install.

IF you are reusing your stock flywheel this wont be an option. Anyways I cut the top half of the bolt off, took off the flywheel and unscrewed the rest of the bolt out. That easy, but FW was damaged but didn't matter to me bc I had a new FW. Good luck.

Yeah, unfortunately, I'd like to try and reuse the flywheel since it's already been replaced. I appreciate the input, though.

 

Wondering if helicoils are a reasonable option and if they'll hold the torque needed for the bolts. Thinking of just drilling them out. Of course, this is my first clutch job, so I don't even know what's behind the flywheel yet.

 

I really can't wait any longer. So frustrating. I love this car but every time I try a repair, something like this happens. Ie the balljoint pinch bolts. Replaced both knuckles due to them being bonded/rusted in place. One side snapped, the other stripped.

If you put a helicoil in there you could throw the rotating assembly out of balance... not by much, but something to think about.

If you are VERY careful, i bet you can cut the bolt heads off w/o damaging the flywheel itself... and even a little bit of 'love nicking' won't be as much weight as a helicoil (not that it's much, just sayin')

Oh yeah.. and think about it this way.. if you screw up drilling them out... that's your crank shaft....

Another thought, get the standard hex bolts for re-install....

I should've also clarified that I know the crank is back there, I just don't know what it looks like yet.

 

picked up a carbide bit to get the ez out this morning.

 

probably will order the helicoils to have them on hand today but putting some serious consideration in about the balance before I go that route. May try grinding the heads off the bolts first. Such a mess.

You can still drill/tap/helicoil even if you grind the heads off, i'd use that as my first option, before trying to tap hardened steel...

It looks like this behind the flywheel:

http://i1148.photobucket.com/albums/o568/Andyjo07/1874_zps69d05375.jpg

Thanks for the pic.

Definitely going to attempt to grind the heads off first and go from there.

Check out this type of extractor?

 

[ame=http://www.amazon.com/Irwin-Industrial-Tools-394001-Bolt-Grip/dp/B0000CCXVZ]Irwin Industrial Tools 394001 Bolt-Grip Bolt Extractor Base Set, 5-Piece - Amazon.com[/ame]

 

 

That's what I used on one of my cam bolts...

If you cut the heads off of the bolts you won't need to drill and tap. Some of the bolt will protrude from the crank and you can get some vice grips on them and walk them out.

Check out this type of extractor?

 

Irwin Industrial Tools 394001 Bolt-Grip Bolt Extractor Base Set, 5-Piece - Amazon.com

 

 

That's what I used on one of my cam bolts...

 

Don't use an impact gun w/ those...

Don't use an impact gun w/ those...

 

I used a breaker bar to break it loose, then an impact to spin it out the rest of the way.

had one explode when i used the impact gun, the little springy tab parts rained down around the shop.... oops

sorry i'm a bit late to the party, but when I attempted this I ended up throwing the trans in the trunk and towing it to a shop for them to get 4 of my stripped torx+ bolts out. they said they welded a piece of metal onto the end and wrenched them out. go figure.

Any updates from the OP ?

Well, in my quest to "do things right" I often overlook the simple solution.

 

I *thought* I had a single mass flywheel already installed because it was a Sachs and had been replaced. After poking around on the forums, I realized it was, in fact, a Dual Mass and I had bought a single mass clutch setup.

 

Resurfacing the flywheel was going to cost $48 locally. I was able to grab an 07 WRX flywheel already resurfaced for $75 from a junkyard. Pretty frustrating considering I ordered the helicoils and what I spent on carbide bits, dremel bits, etc was far more expensive than the jy flywheel.

 

Half hour of grinding the flywheel, then the heads off the bolts, the flywheel came off and the bolts backed out of the crank with my fingers. No crank thread damage from my left hand drill bit exploits. Exhale.

 

Tried to mate the transmission to the block for 4 hours last night with a helper and just couldn't get the angle.

 

A learning experience, in the least.... but still not bad considering I had never done a clutch prior to this, much less a full tranny removal for repair. Gotta keep plugging!

I used a ratchet strap on the engine to adjust the angle, seemed to work alright. Good luck

Good deal, you're getting there. Once you get that transmission bolted back up you'll be a happy camper, just reassembly from there.

 

Be sure that your clutch fork is securely installed and that you line things up right so you don't bork the pilot bearing

 

I had to walk away last night because things weren't lining up and I actually considered using the top bolts to cinch the tranny down, knowing that's not the right way to go about it. It's not my typical style, either.

 

Any tips on the clutch fork? Seems simple. Pin (clip, whatever) is in place, greased the recommended areas per manual. Moves okay without falling off...

 

I used a ratchet strap on the engine to adjust the angle, seemed to work alright. Good luck

 

Elaborate, please?

After Google searching, I read some guys pull the motor mounts on other models to make mating easier. Since I'm going to be working alone (with 3 jacks) going forward, I am considering this. I think the engine needs to tilt down a bit to get the right input shaft angle. Working on stands at their top tooth trying to angle the transmission from the bottom up on the cheaper HF tranny jack.

 

Thanks for all the support guys!

You can see most of it in this picture. Basically it's hooked to the exhaust heat shield, then under the corner of the valve cover and up to the hoist. Gave me some control of left and right.

 

http://i.imgur.com/qfrqIuEl.jpg

Oh, and I used a piece of wire to tie the clutch slave cylinder in the compressed position, then the fork and TOB are all the way to the back.

 

One less thing fighting you.

Ah, okay. Very different setup than what I have going! Thanks for the pictures.

Whelp, got it mounted on my own tonight. I took my third jack with some wood and tilted the motor back a bit via the oil pan. It didn't go perfectly smooth: took about three tries but I felt when it finally made it into the teeth on the clutch. To say it was difficult to finagle the transmission onto those bottom studs alone would be an understatement.

 

I will admit this: I had about 3/4" between the block and the case and no amount of jostling about seemed to seat it further, so I did use the housing bolts to close the gap. No noises, pops or anything....just closed right up as I tightened in a pattern. Hoping I didn't take a chance on the pilot bearing by doing this. Everything seemed to align and the amount of wiggle the tranny had tightened right up as soon as I felt it "go home" prior to bolt installation.

 

Can't thank you guys enough for all of the suggestions and support. Will be finishing up reassemble tomorrow and crossing my fingers as well as holding my breath on that first startup and voyage.

What usually helps is to have the crank pulley on and to turn it left and right with a ratchet and socket on the crank pulley bolt. This helps get the teeth aligned with the splines on the input shaft.

 

That and jacking up the trans always make things go much easier for me.

I found it easier to jack up the rear of the car to get a better alignment of the tranny and the block. Took me a few to figure that one out.

I found it easier to jack up the rear of the car to get a better alignment of the tranny and the block. Took me a few to figure that one out.

 

In hindsight, that would've worked too. I spent most of Tuesday night hitting the floorpan while trying to lift and push.