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Oil seperator plate?!


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where the hell do I find one of these?? oreillys and napa in my hometown cant come up with anything, headgaskets just blew and I wanna make sure I get eveything done the first time. Any help or part numbers would be greatly appreciated!
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Or junkyard if you buy a whole engine and part it out. When I have mine off today, I think I will trace the pattern onto a sheet, and then scan it into some format my machinist son-in-law might be able to reproduce quickly and therefore cheaply.

 

Tom

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You can get them online. I bought mine ($37) from subarupartsforyou: http://www.subarupartsforyou.com/cp_partdetail.php?partid=11564. They list the part no. as 11831AA210 800406140X5 800406150X1. It comes with new bolts. I sealed mine with Permatex Ultra Grey RTV sealant. Brok recommends Fujibond, which you can get at the dealership.

 

I would not recommend pulling one from an old engine. The old style was plastic. The new one is the third design so go with that.

 

off road sho, there is a baffle on the plate so I don't think just cutting out the outline will work. Were you planning on doing the baffle as well? They are pretty cheap new.

oldvsnew.thumb.jpg.a9cbdbbc619b0796032b71b8cbe796ca.jpg

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  • I Donated
off road sho, there is a baffle on the plate so I don't think just cutting out the outline will work. Were you planning on doing the baffle as well? They are pretty cheap new.

 

That man can make anything lol. I've seen it with my own eyes

-broknindarkagain

My Current Project - Click Here

COME AND TAKE IT

"The only thing necessary for the triumph of evil is for good men to do nothing."

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  • 1 month later...
not to go off topic, but would you rip a motor just to do the oil seperator plate? i got a pretty bad leak in mine. my engine runs fine at the moment and havent had the notorious head gasket failure yet(knock on wood). dont know if its worth it to pull the motor just to do the seperator plate. my valve cover gaskets, and oil pan have all been resealed and the such. just looking at it these motors look pretty easy to take out.
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not the oil pan unless someone re-did it badly.

 

95 - 99 (maybe '90 on) the plates were plastic and they almost always leak at some point. how soon and how bad are the only questions.

 

by 00 they started making them out of metal. so they are not as likely to leak. the one engine swap i have done, neither of them was leaking, one at 85k and the other at 150k miles.

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from your earlier posts it spounds like you have re-done most of if not all of the other leak points. but before i pulled the engine i would double and triple check them, ALL. including the PCV it can consume a lot of oil. and i don't recommend replacing the rear main seal unless it is ''DRIPPING'' oil. but if you choose to, be sure to use a high quality seal and re-install it EXACTLY like it was before you start.

they tend to leak after they have been replaced if they are not right.

 

almost any leak will end up on the rear of the engine in the fly wheel / flex plate area.

 

you probably know this, but no sense wasting time and money? doing a job that isn't needed.

and very smart to address everything you have not already done if / when you do pull it.

 

good luck.

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Yeah, it is literaly dripping. I can hear it hitting the exhaust. It's leaking enough to the point that I can see smoke billowing from the hood scoop after the car warms up. The more it's driven, the worse it is.

 

I narrowed it down to the rear of the engine the other day as I completely cleaned off the entire engine bay top to bottom. I drove it for a while and could not see oil coming from anywhere, but I could here the drip.

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Ide pull the engine and replace the rear main, separator plate and the o-ring for the wrist pin access cover. The o-ring on mine was brittle and broke in pieces. My rear main was slightly leaking also its not bad to replace if you go slow. I used a 4" pvc pipe to install the rear main like someone else done on here worked good. Then you can reseal the oil pump and replace that o-ring and the front seal and cam seals while its out lol.

 

Here is a pic of the new plate with the part number on it. It comes with allen bolts too which dont strip out so easy.

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l285/spdfrk1990/Legacy/Legacy022.jpg

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Now I'm starting to wonder if my OBL's oil leak is from this, or the oil pan itself...

 

Mnokey, you've repalced this stuff before, what is your opinion good sir?

 

Kenny, you have the greatest luck with subarus, lol.

 

Yeah, I replaced my oil separator plate. But amazingly when I pulled the engine the plate wasn't leaking. Also, my rear main seal looked pretty good. There was just a tiny bit of dried oil at the bottom of it so I don't think it was leaking either. I replaced both of them as a preventative measure since I was replacing everything else and didn't want to take a chance.

 

I also resealed my oil pan. It had a ton of built up oil gunk on it so I couldn't tell where it was leaking from. After I installed it oil was leaking like crazy out of a crack where the oil plug had been bashed in somehow. It was leaking a quart a week. Finally I just drained the pan and fixed it with JB weld and I installed a new crush washer. It's bone dry now.

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It depends on how bad it is leaking and how involved you want to get. If it's just a little weep then no biggie. But if it is gushing oil then that could be a problem. How bad is your leak?

 

prob about 1.5 quarts every 3 k or so. im mainly getting sick of the plums of smoke when i park my car coming from the motor from the oil getting onto the exhaust.

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prob about 1.5 quarts every 3 k or so. im mainly getting sick of the plums of smoke when i park my car coming from the motor from the oil getting onto the exhaust.

 

 

thats why my car is named smokey. all the front seals leaked, and if i drove it with any load on the engine at all, it would smoke when i stopped. i got sick of people telling me my car was on fire after a while and fixed it. his name is still smokey.

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