Leaking oil feed line..

I've got a leak in my stock turbo oil feed line. It's down near the bend where it connects to the other oil feed line.

I decided to order a bnr16g, and went with the IP&T oil line. After looking at the instructions, I'm seeing that the stock feed line gets capped at the flare and the new line connect elsewhere. It looks like it will be really easy to install, but I'm still going to have a leak as my oil line is broken below the flare.

Since I'm just going to be capping this line anyway, I'm wondering if there is a better solution than just ordering a new line. Is there an easy way to delete that line?

The attached pic doesn't really show the leak so much, but that is the line that is leaking below the actuator.

Off the top of my head, I don't think you can delete the line because the banjo bolt still needs to flow oil to other things ?

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/things-work-207123.html

Check out that thread, in the back of the manual is a oil flow path.

Thanks Mike.. It's leaking below the flare on the bend near where it connects with the avcs line. Can you sell me just that oem line (+any washer/hardware needed) so I can get this job done without pulling the intake manifold?

I will just install it and cap it and still use the IP&T line to supply the new turbo.

Was able to get a slightly better pic and put a red circle around the piece of the line that has oil on it..

Ah crap.. I thought it ended/connected to another line at that bolt I can see around the bend in the leaking line. I see that it has a bolt, but it's one continuous line going forward.

It's a factory replaced long block with 50k so I wasn't looking to pull too much of it apart. I'm not 100% confident that I can even get that all apart and back together correctly.. I didn't realize that you would unbolt the manifold with the tgvs attached even..

If I'm going that far, I guess I better look into what else I should be replacing/upgrading while this is all apart..Injectors, TGV deletes, air pump delete etc.. Or trade it in on a 14 fxt..

Alright Mike.. I'm resigned to pulling the intake manifold. (why pull with TGVs vs just pulling the 8 bolts in the manifold itself?) Pulling the TGVs looks more difficult though everyone seems to recommend that based on my searching around.

I guess I'm going to need the rest of the line kit that you quoted me. Also whatever gaskets/o-rings I will need to replace the IM.

As far as additional stuff, I guess it will make sense to do injectors, maybe spark plugs and a turbo inlet. I think I can live without TGV deletes and I will leave the air pump alone until the motor needs to be pulled for rebuild. Can you think of anything else I should be doing right now? I'm just looking for a reliable setup but as I mentioned the long block was factory replaced about 50k miles ago.

Same location was an issue with me when I replaced the line with IP&T. It developed a leak just before the banjo bolt, directly underneath the turbo-inlet.

While the turbo was off I ended up cutting the line, cleaning, and brazing it closed. Agree that it's an "ugly" fix, but it's a fix nonetheless if you wanted to avoid pulling everything else off.

Same location was an issue with me when I replaced the line with IP&T. It developed a leak just before the banjo bolt, directly underneath the turbo-inlet.

 

While the turbo was off I ended up cutting the line, cleaning, and brazing it closed. Agree that it's an "ugly" fix, but it's a fix nonetheless if you wanted to avoid pulling everything else off.

I considered this since this line is just getting capped.. Sounds like we have the same failure point in the line. How did you get it fully sealed?

Hint, while the manifold is off. replace the 4 o-rings between the manifold and TVG's.

And tighten all the small fuel line clamps under the manifold.

It might be a good idea to clean up the ground wires on the back drivers side of the block.

It's only been about 100 miles so it's a bit early to tell, but I was able cut the line after the leaking area (the solder joint connecting it to the bracket) and folded it over and brazed it. It's not leaking as of yet.

The turbo went in fairly painless and the new oil feed line setup was a really straight forward install with the exception of step 1 which wasn't entirely clear. After about 100 easy miles I did a 3rd gear pull at 0% wgdc and all seems to be okay. Will start tuning boost likely tomorrow and see what happens.

So far so good.. Having a bit of an issue dialing in boost at the onset and getting this things to spool. No leaks yet as far as I can see though.

Part of the issue could be the stock BPV. I'm getting a spike to 20 psi and then a drop to 18 and then it builds again. After several revisions I've not been able to tune it out without just running less boost than 18psi.

I'm also for sure maxing the stock fuel system and probably need to dial down high rpm boost a bit more. Hitting 100% IDC by 6k rpms at 17psi and fuel targets of 11.4.

I'm going to order a turbosmart BOV and a DW65.. Debating just doing the injectors now too..

You shouldn't need injectors and pump with a 16g.

I don't need them, but as I mentioned, I'm hitting 100% injector duty at 6000 rpm with a boost target of 17 and an AFR target of 11.4. I don't really want to run any leaner, and dropping to 16.5 psi at 6000 rpm still has me at 98% duty cycle. I could pull a bit more boost and drive around at 95 % duty cycle, but these numbers are with 70* IATs. In the winter I will definitely be running lean or pulling more boost.

That aside, I'm also hitting a new range on the MAF scale. With injectors at 100% +, I can't really determine what to set the MAF to. At 4.61 volts for instance I have a value of 310g/s, the scaling logs are telling me to add another 3-4% to that. I did, took more logs and still 3-4% needs to be added. That's going to continue to be the case because the ECU is still seeing a 3-4% AFR error due to being out of fuel.

You shouldn't need injectors and pump with a 16g.

I've seen the stock turbos max out the injectors on pro-tuned cars.

We almost always suggest getting upgraded injectors when doing a turbo upgrade w/custom tune on it.

-Mike Paisan

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Pulling the manifold is not that big of a deal. Just remove it with the TGV's attached (dont try to remove it and leave the TGV's on the heads).

I made the mistake of separating the manifold from the TGV's...what an ehffing mess! Even with the engine on the engine stand it was a PITA I can't imagine having done it with the engine installed.

Honestly it is far easier to remove the manifold and TGV's as a single unit.

Sorry for any short or undecipherable posts. Been training on the dyno for two days and my head is spinning with questions.

I don't need them, but as I mentioned, I'm hitting 100% injector duty at 6000 rpm with a boost target of 17 and an AFR target of 11.4. I don't really want to run any leaner, and dropping to 16.5 psi at 6000 rpm still has me at 98% duty cycle. I could pull a bit more boost and drive around at 95 % duty cycle, but these numbers are with 70* IATs. In the winter I will definitely be running lean or pulling more boost.

 

That aside, I'm also hitting a new range on the MAF scale. With injectors at 100% +, I can't really determine what to set the MAF to. At 4.61 volts for instance I have a value of 310g/s, the scaling logs are telling me to add another 3-4% to that. I did, took more logs and still 3-4% needs to be added. That's going to continue to be the case because the ECU is still seeing a 3-4% AFR error due to being out of fuel.

Ok then, lets go this way. So you spend the cash for the fuel pump, then injectors. How much cash is that, plus the re-tune, for how much HP gain ?

Back off the PSI a little and save the cash.

It's your money...

If more HP was your goal, wouldn't a bigger turbo have been a better choice..., just saying.

Honestly it is far easier to remove the manifold and TGV's as a single unit.

 

Sorry for any short or undecipherable posts. Been training on the dyno for two days and my head is spinning with questions.

Do you need to do this to replace the injectors?