Doubts about Ground

Hello Everybody!

 

At this moment I'm installing an amplifier to upgrade my sound system.

 

I'd like to ground HU, ASWC, Microbypass, Rear Camera and Pin 14 (from aftermarket harness) with amplifier ground to avoid current returning via RCA. I've already burned a RCA output from my last HU 7 years ago because I had a contact resistance in the Amplifier Ground (there were two ground points, one in the trunk and another one from the HU in the deck). If I ground all stuffs (HU, Microbypass, ASWC, Rear Camera, Amplifier and Pin14 - from aftermarket harness) in a single point, I can avoid this current returning.

 

However, one thing is driving me crazy! If I remove ground wire from aftermarket harness and from HU harness, my HU and ASWC are still turning on. I removed antenna from HU and the HU has been removed from the deck (maybe HU chassis could be grounded to the metal bracket and screws). However, they're still turning on. Note that I joined all ground wires from HU, ASWC, Microbypass, Aftermarket harness Pin14, Rear Camera and Amplifier in a single point but I didn't connect it to any metal frame from the car (for ground testing purposes, HU should not turn on!!!). And Pin10 (Ground) from aftermarket harness is not connected to the factory harness (it's is insulated from any circuit with tube shrink).

 

In this scenario, where is the ground point that permits HU and ASWC to be turned on? My car is a 2011 Subaru Legacy GT.

 

Any suggestion or ideas? ;-)

 

Thanks,

Daniel

Nobody?!?!

 

I've already sent an email to David Carter (ae64.com) too.

This is completely unnecessary. I have a full custom audio set up with 1000 watt jl slash amp ( more power than anyone in their right mind needs) 2 12 type r sub's, up front I have Kenwood components ran by a 400 watt digital amp. I have rca feeding both amps. No issues. If you want to upgrade the entire "flow" of your electrical system, then do the big 3 upgrade. I did it in my car with 0 gauge wire. No issues at all. My amp is so big I couldn't even run it without the big three my car would almost stall out. If you burnt a rca out then I'd be more inclined to think that your head unit just took a shit.

This is completely unnecessary. I have a full custom audio set up with 1000 watt jl slash amp ( more power than anyone in their right mind needs) 2 12 type r sub's, up front I have Kenwood components ran by a 400 watt digital amp. I have rca feeding both amps. No issues. If you want to upgrade the entire "flow" of your electrical system, then do the big 3 upgrade. I did it in my car with 0 gauge wire. No issues at all. My amp is so big I couldn't even run it without the big three my car would almost stall out. If you burnt a rca out then I'd be more inclined to think that your head unit just took a shit.

 

Hi 06leg!

 

My system is working perfectly and will be during 2 or more years, until a contact resistance comes due oxidation between the connector (from Amplifier Ground Wire) and the frame car. This resistance can makes current returns by RCA Cable (if I have a ground point in the HU console too, of course) and this can burn my HU RCA Output. I had this once and I woud like to avoid again. That's the reason I want only one ground point in my entire audio system. However, It looks like I have one more ground point that permits my HU and ASWC be turned on even with the main ground pin of them disconnected.

 

I need to know where is the f**** grounding point hehehe

If you know anything about electricity then you know that can be amy place you want it to be. Like I said you are worrying too much. Your entire car frame so rusty or broken that it won't work? If not then your worried about nothing. Do the big three. If you're worried about anything.