How many miles on your CVT? Any Issues?

Seems to me 2010 - 2012 are troublesome.

I googled my replacements part number.

 

31100AB171

 

I came up with fitment to 2010 - 2012.

 

Also this number came up as an alternative maybe being the troublesome earlier fitment.

 

31100AB170.

 

The CVT was redesigned for 2013, but that doesn't necessarily mean this issue was fixed for 2013 models.

Depends solely on when they quit suppling the 31100AB170 which is the faulty culprit.

2010 thru 2012 are only in question as this T/Q was its only fitment.

Scott

Also the only thing in common is that the T/Q shares the same fluid as it is not really a part of the CVT itself.

Depends solely on when they quit suppling the 31100AB170 which is the faulty culprit.

2010 thru 2012 are only in question as this T/Q was its only fitment.

Scott

 

I still would feel warm fuzzies if I knew for a fact I was safe. What exactly is the faulty part itself?

 

 

31100AB170 CONVERTER ASSEMBLY-TORQUE .

Subaru Legacy 2.5L CVT 4WD 25I SEDAN 2010, 2011, 2012 Subaru Legacy 2.5L CVT 4WD 25I-L EYESIGHT SEDAN 2012 Subaru Legacy 2.5L CVT 4WD 25I-L SEDAN 2010, 2011, 2012 Subaru Legacy 2.5L CVT 4WD 25I-P SEDAN 2010, 2011, 2012 Subaru Outback 2.5L CVT 25I 2010, 2011, 2012 Subaru Outback 2.5L CVT 25I-L 2010, 2011, 2012 Subaru Outback 2.5L CVT 25I-L EYESIGHT 2012 Subaru Outback 2.5L CVT 25I-P 2010, 2011, 2012 Subaru Outback 2.5L CVT 25I-T 2012

I don't think I'm going to buy another Subaru again. I've owned several Subaru's over the years and it's always been something..... head gasket failure, oil leaks, more head gasket issues, more oil leaks, and now CVT and engine oil consumption issues. I personally haven't had a CVT or oil consumption problem as of yet (87,000 miles currently) but I do have a left side valve cover leaking oil. I'm not sure when it started leaking but it seems to be getting worse as time goes by. I bought this car hoping to get 200,000 - 250,000 miles without having to put big money into it to get there. I'm not confident that this vehicle is going to make it as planned. If I knew a CVT replacement was $8,000+/- when I was looking at this car I would have never bought it in the first place.

$1800-$1900 for a torque converter replacement, not $8000. Where did you come up with that? complain to Subaru. maybe your issues will be covered.

$1800-$1900 for a torque converter replacement, not $8000. Where did you come up with that? complain to Subaru. maybe your issues will be covered.

 

Even if you DID have to replace the whole CVT, you can find complete low-mileage used units for around $2K.

 

http://www.car-part.com

$1800-$1900 for a torque converter replacement, not $8000. Where did you come up with that? complain to Subaru. maybe your issues will be covered.

 

I said $8,000 for a CVT replacement not a torque converter replacement.

I don't think I'm going to buy another Subaru again. I've owned several Subaru's over the years and it's always been something..... head gasket failure, oil leaks, more head gasket issues, more oil leaks, and now CVT and engine oil consumption issues. I personally haven't had a CVT or oil consumption problem as of yet (87,000 miles currently) but I do have a left side valve cover leaking oil. I'm not sure when it started leaking but it seems to be getting worse as time goes by. I bought this car hoping to get 200,000 - 250,000 miles without having to put big money into it to get there. I'm not confident that this vehicle is going to make it as planned. If I knew a CVT replacement was $8,000+/- when I was looking at this car I would have never bought it in the first place.

 

First thing is never ever trust or take your car to Faulkner Subaru.

 

Replacement cost ballpark $1400 and you'll get 200k+ service.

Seriously travel a bit north to W & L Subaru.

They will be able to do anything required and responsibly.

trust me.

scott

Edited November 16, 2014 by scott6058
spelling

We've got about 130kms on ours. Bought with 120.

 

PROBLEM: when driving at a steady pace of anything above 50kmh and in 6th "gear", it will squeal and abruptly shift from 6th to 5th and then back to 6th with a very defined slip.

 

Not sure what to make of it as no-one seems to have a problem like this. Could it be that the torque convertor is done? I would hope so ... cheaper than replacing the tranny!

 

I have similar sqealing syptoms. I have 2011 2.5i Outback with 140k km.

Usually it is when i use Cruise Control and Reset the speed. Whet engine starts to push and build rpms it squiels and looses traction (in gearbox) and looses rpms. And then it regains tractions and builds up rpms. I can see it at 90km/h speeds.

While experimenting had some little slips also when driving steady.

Are there some news on this?

 

Service Bulletin # 16-90-13 Design Change to Lock-Up Type Torque Converter Torque Converter

Bulletin Description: This bulletin announces the availability of a countermeasure torque converter assembly to address a customer concern of very low engine RPM when coming to a stop. The condition is similar to coming to a stop in a manual transmission equipped vehicle without depressing the clutch pedal. Thrust washer wear inside the torque converter torque converter can cause restriction of the oil passage used to bleed off lock-up clutch application pressure. The result is either a delayed (momentary low engine rpm) or no lock-up pressure release. The thrust washer has been changed from a solid bushing-type to a needle bearing type.

I don't understand, will that TSB solve this issue? If so, will the TSB be performed for free if I'm at 55k miles (B2B is expired, but powertrain expires at 60k)? Mine does this sometimes. Would the dealer have to have it happen in front of them?

Edited November 27, 2014 by computersoc

For those of you that had the fluid changed at the dealer, did they do a pan drain/fill, or a complete flush? What was the cost?

For those of you that had the fluid changed at the dealer, did they do a pan drain/fill, or a complete flush? What was the cost?

Drain refill I think. Cost was like just over $200. Took 2 hours plus.

I'll continue to look to the community and see what others have done regarding flushing. There are more and more aftermarket fluids that are cropping up as compatible with OEM, as well as flushing machines that can handle the CVT, BG being one.

For all intents and purposes a DIY job is like a drain/fill of a diff, the one issue being ensuring correct fill level. I've tackled something similar in another trans that used a pan stand pipe and it's not hard to do, just takes time. If I can get a flush done and not have to spend hours under the car, I'll call that a win.

I'd like to get mine changed at a local Subaru specialist shop, but I bet if I then had issues with the torque converter they'd deny my warranty.

First thing is never ever trust or take your car to Faulkner Subaru.

 

Replacement cost ballpark $1400 and you'll get 200k+ service.

Seriously travel a bit north to W & L Subaru.

They will be able to do anything required and responsibly.

trust me.

scott

 

Scott,

I had my CVT fluid changed at Faulkner becuase they are the only dealer nearby. Can you elaborate on why not to use them? Is it personal experience or do you know of others that have had a bad experience? Now I'm wondering if the fluid even got changed. Unfortunately, I didn't wait for the car so who knows. If Faulkner is a problem I will travel further for peace of mind.

 

Thanks

I have a 2011 Legacy 2.5 with cvt. 104k miles. Ours has a clunk noise. So of you accelerate and left off the gas a few 2nd later you hear a clunk. Happens everytime. Also if you are on the brakes and shift from drive to reverse after a second or two you hear the same clunk. Is this the start of the converter problem? It hasn't started stalling at all yet.

I just passed 19K today on my 2014. No problems so far.

Not quite 110k on my 2011 Legacy 2i. Needs a brand new transmission. Solenoid issues. All recommended maintenance done at dealer the whole time. 7500$ repair.

 

This was the second car from them. First car had some growling noise in the front end and they said it was a bad transmission which was replaced under warranty. It went away for a while then came back a week later. They then replaced the car. Now the new one's got shuddering and the AT Oil Temp light is on and is basically undriveable.

 

NOT impressed with Subaru "quality" given I was expecting somewhere around 200k out of this. Not even 4 years old and it's currently worthless.

 

I will probably never buy another Subaru after this. Two cars, and three transmissions???

Not quite 110k on my 2011 Legacy 2i. Needs a brand new transmission. Solenoid issues. All recommended maintenance done at dealer the whole time. 7500$ repair.

 

This was the second car from them. First car had some growling noise in the front end and they said it was a bad transmission which was replaced under warranty. It went away for a while then came back a week later. They then replaced the car. Now the new one's got shuddering and the AT Oil Temp light is on and is basically undriveable.

 

NOT impressed with Subaru "quality" given I was expecting somewhere around 200k out of this. Not even 4 years old and it's currently worthless.

 

I will probably never buy another Subaru after this. Two cars, and three transmissions???

 

My advice? don't give up on the subaru name completely. Stop buying the same car with the first gen CVT. Subaru manual transmissions have a pretty great track record, even the older traditional automatics are pretty bulletproof. It's sad that you've had so many issues, and I understand you're frustration, but try picking up a legacy that's manual, or step back to a 4th gen if you want an auto. I'm sure your faith in subaru would be restored

Sounds like a trip to the dealer to get another one is in order. Either that or change dealers.

My advice? don't give up on the subaru name completely. Stop buying the same car with the first gen CVT. Subaru manual transmissions have a pretty great track record, even the older traditional automatics are pretty bulletproof. It's sad that you've had so many issues, and I understand you're frustration, but try picking up a legacy that's manual, or step back to a 4th gen if you want an auto. I'm sure your faith in subaru would be restored

Despite the fact that I agree with you, consider what you're saying: as a customer, I have to navigate a manufacturer's products, and avoid certain ones in order to get what I want, and that's reliability. That is exactly a good reason to ditch that manufacturer altogether.

My advice? don't give up on the subaru name completely. Stop buying the same car with the first gen CVT. Subaru manual transmissions have a pretty great track record, even the older traditional automatics are pretty bulletproof. It's sad that you've had so many issues, and I understand you're frustration, but try picking up a legacy that's manual, or step back to a 4th gen if you want an auto. I'm sure your faith in subaru would be restored

I'll assume you meant that IF I purchase another Subaru I should avoid any of the 1st gen CVT models. I completely agree. Other than the CD player failing and the volume controls on the steering wheel dying ( neither of which should have happened either since I don't even USE the CD player ) it's been pretty trouble free otherwise.

 

If you were suggesting that the replacement car should have been something other than the 1st gen CVT model then I'm not sure how that could be expected since my choices were pretty much automatic if I needed to have anyone else I knew drive it. While I can somewhat agree that perhaps it's a series of bad luck. It's not as though I didn't wait a year on the first Gen CVT and check to see if there were obvious problems. The first car I just figured was a lemon and something about it was causing transmission problems. They took it back no problem. No harm, no foul, it happens. I had no reason to suspect that I'd be dealing with yet another transmission problem in a middle aged car. It's not even 4 years old, yeah there's mileage, but it's almost all highway mileage so it's not like it was constant stop and go abuse, I've never rocked the car out of a snowbank, and I've never towed anything and there's usually only 2 of us in the car so it's not like there's 800 pounds of people in the car either.

 

Maybe I could have gone with a different make/model/transmission when they replaced it, but why would I assume I had anything other than a one off lemon? If I have to avoid entire model lines of cars based on what might have a 1st gen part in it that's not exactly a glowing endorsement of Subaru Quality. At that point, for all I know their new 2015 Impreza has some gen 1 part that fires the airbags every time I use the rear defroster and leave the turn signal on for 17 blinks. It's not a serious example, but something always has a gen 1 something in it and it's not reasonable for the customer to be forced to do that level of research.

 

Either your product is reliable, or it isn't. For me the Subaru Legacy cars are not, or at least are not long lasting, and I don't see Subaru really standing behind their product here to show me otherwise. I'm currently firmly in the 5% of the Subaru cars sold in the last ten years that aren't still on the road. Twice.

Edited January 17, 2015 by shoggoth43

Subaru manual transmissions have a pretty great track record, even the older traditional automatics are pretty bulletproof. ... try picking up a legacy that's manual, or step back to a 4th gen if you want an auto. I'm sure your faith in subaru would be restored

 

Good luck finding a fifth-gen manual. I looked far and wide for about 5 months before I finally found one. After 2012, they only were available in the stripped base models. I wanted one with a sunroof and heated seats, and they are pretty rare. For 2015, as you probably know, they are unavailable. Fourth-gen cars are getting pretty high in mileage, so it's unlikely that stepping into a high-mileage, six-year-old car is much of an option. That said, my 2003 Legacy GT got to 180k miles on the original clutch. I'm hoping my 2011 can go just as far! (but I know that was probably a fluke).

Edited January 20, 2015 by copyboy311

78k and counting on 2011 legacy w/ CVT and I drive it like I stole it. No issues whatsoever. Even had the dealership check the fluid, I was convinced there would be metal in it they said it was totally clean...