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Removing rear differential bushings


scoobyscoodle

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Does anyone know if you can burn out the rear differential bushings? I'm talking about the two in the "differential crossmember" bracket. I took a torch to one of them and melted the rubber and was able to get the metal cylinder in the center to spin but it seems like its secured in by more than the rubber. Anyone burn these out or do you have to use a press? TIA
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If you don't have a press and are careful with a hacksaw, you can cut through the metal ring left from the bushing in two spots, the use chisels/flat head screwdrivers to pry it out. I've had to do that with motormounts before. Just assemble the hacksaw with the blade through the middle of where the bushing used to be....slower but also works.

 

Pry/wedge the chisel between the ring and the carrier, if you cut in two places once you curl up the one edge it will just fall right out.

 

-Steve

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That will work too, but it can be daunting with the angles and pressure you need to apply to make it work - just take your time (and some breaks too).
- Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum -
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Thanks for all the responses guys! I actually ended up using the hacksaw along with my trusty BFH. I thought I was going to be able to burn them out then just cut the inner ring of softer metal out with the hacksaw like I did with the front inner LCA bushings.

 

Once I got these things completely cut apart I realized the center pin is actually part of a much bigger metal piece with a "cam" sort of shape to it. It's actually held in place by two separate rubber bushings and the entire center is packed with grease; kind of like a rubber pb&j sandwich. Once you burn/cut one side of the bushing you can pry that big "cam" piece out and cut out the surrounding ring just like I had initially thought. Just needed a little extra time and blunt force but all is bolted back together. It's really nice shifting now under full boost with no clunk!

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