capttris Posted March 24, 2016 Share Posted March 24, 2016 The O&M for my 2013 states: Never use different brands of brake fluid together. Also, avoid mixing DOT 3 and DOT 4 brake fluid, even if they are the same brand Then under the recommended fluids specs: Brake Fluid: HMVSS No. 116, fresh DOT 3 or DOT 4 brake fluid. 1. How do I know what came from the factory DOT 3 or 4? 2. What is the best choice of brake fluid to use for a complete brake fluid flush and refill? 3. I see some brake fluids that state DOT 3&4 on the bottle. What the deal with this? Sorry for my ignorance on brake fluid... Tristan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTEASER Posted March 24, 2016 Share Posted March 24, 2016 Read this. http://www.stoptech.com/technical-support/technical-white-papers/brake-fluid The reason to not mix DOT3 and DOT4 is that adding DOT4 to DOT3 just brings the whole thing down to DOT3 standards, you aren't getting the benefit of DOT4's higher boiling point because the entire system is not DOT4, and they don't want you to be misled that you have better fluid when only a portion of it is better. You can interchange DOT3 and DOT4 for the purpose of topping it up, but when you do a full flush, you should fill the entire system with only one kind. GTEASER's 2012 Legacy GT - Sold GTEASER's 2009 XTeaser - Sold GTEASER's 1992 Legacy SS - Sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seiyafan Posted March 24, 2016 Share Posted March 24, 2016 I think the difference has to do with maximum operating temperature, which is less relevant if you don't take it to the track. I use ATE 706202 Original TYP 200 DOT 4 Brake Fluid. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ehsnils Posted March 24, 2016 Share Posted March 24, 2016 No problem with DOT 4 in a DOT 3 system, but not the other way around. Also don't do DOT 5.0, it's from what I know silicone-based and mixing that with other stuff might be a really bad thing. DOT 5.1 is also an alternative. Also see the Wikipedia page: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brake_fluid#Glycol-based_.28DOT_3.2C_4.2C_5.1.29 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
capttris Posted March 24, 2016 Author Share Posted March 24, 2016 This is why I love this site! We all help each other! I just learned a great deal, and I am happy to contribute to helping others with the areas that I have some experience. Thanks guys!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fedaykin Posted March 27, 2016 Share Posted March 27, 2016 Flush DOT3 and replace with DOT4. DOT5 shouldn't be used in a street car as it requires a lot of maintenance (can damage seals). DOT5.1 is overkill unless you're tracking your car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blklgt05 Posted March 27, 2016 Share Posted March 27, 2016 I'd just do a full flush with motul RBF660 which is a dot 4, overkill for daily but I want the peace of mind and because racecar. 3 pints for a full flush, 2 pints to bleed. mod journal Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ehsnils Posted March 29, 2016 Share Posted March 29, 2016 Flush DOT3 and replace with DOT4. DOT5 shouldn't be used in a street car as it requires a lot of maintenance (can damage seals). DOT5.1 is overkill unless you're tracking your car. When it comes to stuff like brake fluid and lubricants I love overkill! And at least here it's often not possible to find DOT3 fluid, it's DOT4 that's the most common. It's even a lot easier to find 5.1 than 3. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fedaykin Posted March 30, 2016 Share Posted March 30, 2016 Yeah DOT3 should be obsolete by now. BTW I've had no issues on the track with 'Super DOT4' (usually rated at 600°F boiling temp). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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