Water Cooling Injection methods +Meth

I started this thread as a continuation of an off topic conversation in another thread.The conversation got started talking about high IAT temps while sitting in traffic, which led to a conversation about how to cool down your intercooler, and how the IAT temp does not indicate temp of intercooler.

OK with that said, here is the scenario:

I understand the intercooler in terms of a heat sink. If the IC is holding the heat of the air passed through it which increases the ambient temp around it and floods the engine bay with it, some of it is bound to get back into the intake and create a circle of heat distrbution.

fahr_side provided me with this great little link that explains a lot more about the IC process and also has the same idea that by the time the IAT is up, your IC has already been soaked with heat and the injection would come too late. http://www.autospeed.com/cms/article.html?&title=Intelligent-Intercooler-Water-Spray-Part-1&A=0527

Its very interesting to see the calculations suggested as to when the spray should activate to be most effective.

In a real life scenario my concerns for finding a way to combat the heat of the engine in traffic came because of two situations. One is I have a long hill I have to hit every morning which is almost a half mile ascent and taking it at 70 mph puts some visible strain on the car. The other is sitting in 30 mph traffic where quick bursts of power are needed every minute or so (its how the traffic around here is, jerky).

So the options to cool the air down are either meth or water IC sprays, convert to ethanol, or a new option from Bosch while I am not sure if its even available yet that sprays water directly into the engine, cooling things down at the point of combustion. http://www.bosch-mobility-solutions.com/en/powertrain-electrified-mobility/water-injection/

Regardless of money spent, which would actually be the best option for a daily driver, very minimal autoX time, best power, longevity solution?

I don't like the idea of spraying water directly into the engine, ( mostly because if the injector fails, and it will, the water could presumably just keep leaking down into the engine until the tank empties) so I would be most keen on a meth injection kit for the intake side of things.

If sprayed upstream of the intercooler would it work better? Kind of using the intercooler to further disperse the mixture.

This would be my preferred method by my own uneducated reckoning.

The intercooler works best with a higher temperature difference I believe.

Direct water infection sounds like it would require really high pressures so I'm not sure how that would work. On the other hand, these pre tb water injectors are fairly well tested.

I guess that would depend on how much better the spray atomizes, and whether that offsets any inconsistency due to some of the spray sticking to the surfaces of the intercooler. I'm guessing both of those would be pretty negligible, and if the spray wasn't completely evaporated by the time it got into a cylinder, it certainly would be shortly after the compression stroke started. Since that spray is the only thing in the system changing phase, it doesn't really matter much where the injection happens for charge cooling purposes (edit: Sarang is right about heat exchangers being more effective across larger temperature differentials), so I get the feeling upstream vs. downstream is going to have more to do with where it's easiest to put the injector.

Also, that "intercooler as a heatsink" article fahr_side posted a link to is an interesting read, and it makes a lot of sense.

Gotta say, the presence of a bung on the cold side of the GrimmSpeed TMIC is enough to have me interested in following this thread. To quote a video game, "science isn't about 'why,' it's about 'why not!'"

 

Gotta say, the presence of a bung on the cold side of the GrimmSpeed TMIC is enough to have me interested in following this thread. To quote a video game, "science isn't about 'why,' it's about 'why not!'"

I did not know about the bung on the grimspeed tmic. being that its on the cold side maybe meth would be safer than water in that situation?

I understand the intercooler in terms of a heat sink. If the IC is holding the heat of the air passed through it which increases the ambient temp around it and floods the engine bay with it, some of it is bound to get back into the intake and create a circle of heat distrbution.

No, the heat from a TMIC mostly goes out the hood scoop via convection while the car is standing still or creeping along in traffic. Compared to the hot engine, radiator and turbo the intercooler is rejecting very little heat that is going to effect the IAT reading with the stock sensor location.

So the options to cool the air down are either meth or water IC sprays, convert to ethanol, or a new option from Bosch while I am not sure if its even available yet that sprays water directly into the engine, cooling things down at the point of combustion. http://www.bosch-mobility-solutions.com/en/powertrain-electrified-mobility/water-injection/

The Bosch system is the one used on the new turbo M3/M4 models. It's not a direct injection system. It injects into the intake manifold like a port-injection fuel injector. The big difference with the Bosch system and what you can buy from Snow, AEM, Aquamist etc. is that it uses something like a conventional fuel injector to control water flow. Of course a standard fuel injector would rust solid in a week or less in water so they are clearly using something a bit special. AFAIK the system is currently only available to OEMs, not the aftermarket.

I don't like the idea of spraying water directly into the engine.

See above. AFAIK there is no current WI system available that injects directly into the cylinder.

If sprayed upstream of the intercooler would it work better? Kind of using the intercooler to further disperse the mixture.

I guess that would depend on how much better the spray atomizes, and whether that offsets any inconsistency due to some of the spray sticking to the surfaces of the intercooler. I'm guessing both of those would be pretty negligible, and if the spray wasn't completely evaporated by the time it got into a cylinder, it certainly would be shortly after the compression stroke started. Since that spray is the only thing in the system changing phase, it doesn't really matter much where the injection happens for charge cooling purposes (edit: Sarang is right about heat exchangers being more effective across larger temperature differentials), so I get the feeling upstream vs. downstream is going to have more to do with where it's easiest to put the injector.

On my truck, I tried spraying methanol before my water to air intercooler and later moved it to after. My truck has intake air temperature sensor. Spraying before it would split the difference between what I would or normally see and ambient. For instance on 80 degree day, I would normally see my intake jump creep unto 120. With methanol, I might see 100 degree. Methanol, after the intercooler I usually see intake temp usually 80 or slightly less.

Intercooler efficiency is ruined with the addition of a water or oil film on the air passages inside. They help insulate the charge air from the ambient air passing through the core, which is the opposite of what you want. Yes, intercooler efficiency is improved at higher charge to ambient air temperature deltas. OTOH, the more heat you put into the intercooler the more it needs to reject but rejecting the heat more efficiently doesn't make up for the extra heat. For example, note on the 5th gen Subaru placed the BPV before the intercooler. There's no point in cooling air you're going to dump back into the intake anyway as it cools adiabatically as it returns to ambient pressure. Likewise there's no point in putting more heat into the intercooler for better efficiency when the difference might only be going from 80% to 85%. That doesn't make up for the extra heat that has to be rejected.

Liquid injected into the charge air cools it the most when evaporated quickly and completely. The best method of ensuring that is the finest spray possible and no droplets being able to collect or coalesce on things like pipes or IC air passages.

There are four locations you can inject water or water / meth.

1. Pre-turbo

2. Post-turbo, pre-intercooler

3. Post intercooler, pre-throttle body

4. Intake manifold

Here's a very good article on pre-turbo injection, even it relates to turbodiesels the laws of thermodynamics don't change any. Please read this as it saves me writing a long section on adiabatic heating and Gas Law. http://www.maxxtorque.com/2009/07/pre-turbo-diesel-water-injection.html

Pros: Significant increase in compressor efficiency and much less heat passed into the intercooler for rejection there. Very effective strategy on cars with smaller, less efficient turbos and/or poor intercooling.

Cons: Suffice it to say this is a very risky strategy if you don't know what you're doing. Liquid must not be allowed to strike the compressor wheel whether as suspended droplets or liquid water that's coated the wall of the turbo inlet pipe. Need to make sure the mixture is properly atomized and that the inlet pipe walls do not get wetted. Important to install nozzles in correct orientation for this and at just the right distance from the compressor, not before any sharp bends in the intake tract and so on.

Post-turbo but pre-intercooler.

Pros: Again, you're cooling the charge before it enters the intercooler which means the intercooler could be smaller or get poorer airflow and still do it's job.

Cons: A wet intercooler is very inefficient so it's necessary to inject water far enough upstream from the core to guarantee it's all evaporated when it gets there. Might be practical on a 5th gen though, with it's long charge pipe. Less temperature delta between charge and ambient air makes the IC less efficient (not a big deal but it came up). On a 4th gen or an Impreza this would be absolutely horrible because the turbos and intercoolers are so close together in stock locations.

The vast majority of WMI nozzles are installed just pre-throttle body or into the intercooler end tank on the cold side, like the GS bung location.

Pros: Droplets of liquid hitting the throttle butterfly don't hurt anything. There's probably enough time and distance before an IAT mounted in the intake manifold (eg. STi Spec C models) for the mixture to evaporate completely and give you a really accurate IAT reading and not wet the sensor. No anti-siphon control is needed as this location sees very little vacuum. Easier install than most other spots and least to go wrong. Keeps TB nice and clean too. It's not the single most efficient or effective use of liquid for charge cooling but it's still good and has the least vices or chances of going wrong.

Cons: None I can think of that apply to this location specifically.

Injecting into the manifold is very effective, and is popular in very large (flow volume) systems, but of course is more complex.

Pros: Evaporation is still occurring as the mixture reaches the intake valves, which allows the lowest possible IAT in the cylinder itself. Highest efficiency in cooling means less mixture can be injected for same net result as other systems. Possibility to ensure each cylinder gets exactly the same amount of mixture.

Cons: Must use anti-siphon valves (whether one-way type or solenoid valves that open in tandem with the pump being run) to avoid manifold vacuum sucking in liquid at idle and low throttle angles. Complexity in plumbing and installation. Not possible to measure actual IAT without wetting the sensor(s). Higher cost.

Of course you can inject liquid in more than one place. IMO an ideal system at reasonable cost will comprise of both pre-turbo and pre-throttle body nozzles. I might add a pre-turbo nozzle on my own car next summer to test. Not that I need more power but it's an interesting experiment. Of course you need to reduce the size of the primary nozzle in an existing system so total flow remains about the same. Normal practice is to use a slightly larger nozzle pre-TB and a slightly smaller one pre-turbo.

I've heard good things about Snow Performance injection kits, no idea if anyone has fitted one to a legacy though but definitely WRX and STI.

http://www.snowperformance.net/category-s/150.htm

No, the heat from a TMIC mostly goes out the hood scoop via convection while the car is standing still or creeping along in traffic. Compared to the hot engine, radiator and turbo the intercooler is rejecting very little heat that is going to effect the IAT reading with the stock sensor location.

 

The Bosch system is the one used on the new turbo M3/M4 models. It's not a direct injection system. It injects into the intake manifold like a port-injection fuel injector. The big difference with the Bosch system and what you can buy from Snow, AEM, Aquamist etc. is that it uses something like a conventional fuel injector to control water flow. Of course a standard fuel injector would rust solid in a week or less in water so they are clearly using something a bit special. AFAIK the system is currently only available to OEMs, not the aftermarket.

 

See above. AFAIK there is no current WI system available that injects directly into the cylinder.

fahr_side thats a ton of information which will probably take me a few days to digest, awesome of you, thank you. Two questions on the stuff i quoted from it

-with a proper seal the only air that should escape the TMIC would be from the top fins while the bottom side would disperse through the engine bay no?

-the bosch injection kit appears to be directly injected, the difference being injected between the valves and not before the valves like the other methods or am I missing something very obvious?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o7sIR-6SNGw&feature=youtu.be

-with a proper seal the only air that should escape the TMIC would be from the top fins while the bottom side would disperse through the engine bay no?

If the car is moving then of course the hot air is flowing down through the IC core toward the low-pressure area just behind the plastic under tray. Note air is being sucked through the TMIC, not blown or forced through it. That flow is not getting anywhere near the IAT sensor, though obviously it's not exactly cooling the engine bay either when under boost.

I'll write something about off the shelf WMI hardware later, having tried a few different systems now.

Is there a consensus on a solid water/meth kit to go with?

I've heard good things about Snow Performance injection kits, no idea if anyone has fitted one to a legacy though but definitely WRX and STI.

 

http://www.snowperformance.net/category-s/150.htm

Okay, so we want to talk hardware now. Here's everything the kit manufacturers don't want you know.

Pumps

Let me start by mentioning one point a lot of people either don't get or just gloss over. The great majority of these OTS systems use exactly the same pumps. They are 12V diaphragm pumps designed usually for reverse osmosis water purification systems used in boats and RVs. They all do around 200~300psi at the flow rates the usual nozzles require, meaning up to around 500cc/min. A keen observer would notice the mounting brackets etc. are all identical despite the different labels stuck on the pump bodies.

Of course there are a few different spec levels available from this pump maker and the better kits will use pump heads with EPDM diaphragms that tolerate long term exposure to flowing methanol. One thing these pumps won't tolerate is long-term disuse while full of water/meth mixtures, tending to seize up or leak fluid into the motor guts and rust them solid. Therefore a meth system that seldom gets used will not last very long. I've sold about 30 Snow Performance kits to customers and followed up on the cars. So far I've seen two pumps fail, one of which was installed on my own car. When that one failed I couldn't get a replacement from the Snow distributor and went and bought a generic 12V 250psi RO water pump and that's now been in use longer than the original and works every bit as well. I do use more meth now though than I used to

Note that these diaphragm pumps have to run on their nominal voltage. For example you cannot throttle a diaphragm pump by reducing the supply voltage. A 12V diaphragm pump's output is throttled by PWM, pulse width modulation, which is the technique of supplying a stream of 12V* pulses down the power feed wire to reduce the speed at which the pump runs. Note that the side-effect of this speed reduction is to reduce both water pressure and flow.

Controllers

So these days all the name brands are continuously updating their pump controllers trying to add new features to them and make them more adjustable. One common and popular feature is flow ramping where you set an injection start point and a full flow point. These points may for example be boost related or related to engine load more directly. The idea is very simple and relies on plain old pulse width modulation.

1. Boost reference. Either an internal boost pressure sensor or a signal from an external sensor is used. Of course this is only useful in turbo or supercharged applications.

2. Injector duty cycle. The controller taps one injector wire to grab information about how high IDC is, which is a good measure of how much load is on the engine but is not actually in lock-step with it. For example you can be at high revs and low boost or low revs and higher boost and in these two situations have quite different IDC even though air flow is quite similar. This makes it harder to tune fueling to compensate for the meth.

3. MAF voltage reference. Since engine load is directly calculated from the MAF signal, this is pretty direct. However, it's still possible to reach quite high MAF values at very low boost, especially on the larger turbos. Like this you will easily be spraying meth before you need to be, which is wasteful.

From a tuning perspective I think it's much easier to make your fueling compensations when meth injection is triggered by boost pressure.

What the controls do is simple. One knob will set at which point the injection pump starts running. The other knob sets the point at which pump duty cycle reaches 100%.

Note that most kits come with one or two nozzles which will kind of cover a very wide range of power outputs, which makes creating packages and kits easier for the manufacturer. What they want you to do is install the nozzle which covers the maximum power you might make and then use the maximum set point control to reduce flow to what you need at that power level. Here's a diagram from Snow's instructions, but note that almost all these kits use the same concept no matter which brand. I'm not picking on Snow here, they all do the same thing.

So what you see here are a few ways you can use the two controller knobs or pots to set the system up. The settings depicted by the green line there will trigger the pump running at 10% flow capacity starting around 4psi boost level and have it reach 100% output at 12psi. This is one way of saying the pump output will hit 100% at 12psi and stay there as boost rises further.

The next blue line starts pumping 10% at 6psi and reaching 100% flow at 14psi. Again the flow would stay at 100% above 14psi.

The last blue line starts at 10% flow capacity at 8psi and presumably never reaches 100% flow since that line only goes to 18psi boost, at which point the pump is only running at 60% of it flow rating. You can work out for yourself that if you were using a 300cc/min nozzle you'd in theory be flowing 30cc/min at 10% pump flow, and so on, all of which sounds great and progressive. The manufacturers will go on all day long about how you can tune flow to perfectly match demand but most of them ignore one crucial flaw we will come back to later.

The only system I know of that does throttling by other methods is the Aquamist, which emulates normal fuel injection type control with a highly responsive solenoid valve that controls flow to the nozzle while the pump runs at full power and bypasses the fluid that isn't used internally.

In terms of reliability these devices are not too bad, though one Snow controller did fail on my own car. Worst of all, it would light the green LED which announces the system is supposedly pumping fluid, but didn't actually run the pump! Only my having a WBO2 gauge in the cabin and my keeping an eye on it saved me from a blown motor.

Nozzles

If you read this article linked to above you already understand how crucial good atomization is to effective and efficient charge cooling with water or water/meth injection. You cannot absorb much heat via evaporation if you have piss poor evaporation from throwing big water droplets into the charge air at some unhelpful angle. Four things are crucial to good atomization; nozzle design, nozzle flow rating and line pressure. The smaller the nozzle the easier it is to get fine misting. The higher the pressure the better the misting. The better the nozzle design the better the misting. Firing the nozzles straight into stagnant corners etc. does not help.

Now we come back to the first caveat about diaphragm pumps. As you reduce flow rate you also reduce pressure. I haven't measured the pressure generated when the pumps are throttle back to low duty cycle but watching how the spray pattern changes tells you all you need to know. The fine mist changes into a pattern of larger and larger globules of water as pressure drops and there's more and more water just dripping in fat lazy drops off the nozzles that are just too big to fly.

In my experience, with the usual pumps and usual nozzle sizes (300~400cc/min) the atomizing quality goes to shit the moment you throttle the pump back to any significant degree. So which would be better, flow a bit too much mixture for the air flow level or flow the right amount but spray it in big ugly fat globules of water that don't evaporate and mix reliably or consistently? My experience says if you have chosen the right nozzle for the application, ie not massively oversized, you can easily tune for a stable AFR if the pump is running 100% duty cycle but if it's running at low duty cycle you always get inconsistent AFR as a result. Therefore in my opinion it's better to run the pump at 100% or not at all, and do not try to throttle the pump back to compensate for the wrong nozzle. I will normally set the injection threshold at somewhere between 5 and 10psi and the injection full threshold at or below the same value. This forces the pump to run at 100% flow and pressure from the moment it's triggered.

For comparison here are the nozzles which Snow supply with the Subaru-specific kits:

Note how they state #1 nozzle is good up to 350whp and the #5 nozzle will support as little as 350whp. The #1 nozzle flows 175cc/min and the #5 375cc/min. How can they both do this? Only by using wildly different flow rates achieved by throttling the pump output, which has the unwelcome side-effect of greatly lowering pump delivery pressure. At the same flow rate the #1 nozzle would make a beautiful fine mist and the #5 an ugly drip drip of fat drops because of the difference in line pressure.

I usually look for a nozzle in the range of 1cc per whp or slightly more, but not more than 1.5cc per whp. Say you're shooting for 330whp, then a 350 or 375cc/min nozzle will be just fine in a single nozzle system. Something 500cc or larger would be too much. If your tuner has experience with WMI he will advise you on nozzle size. If he doesn't, find one who does.

Why not use a bigger nozzle you ask. Why is more not better? The optimum amount of 50/50 water and meth mix to spray will constitute between 15 and 20% of the total fuel volume. Adding even plain water to the intake charge makes the final AFR read richer. In the correct amount, adding a 50/50 water and meth mixture to the air charge will shift the final AFR about 0.7 to 1.0 points rich. IOW, if you were running at 10.8:1 AFR under full load and added the correct amount (15~20%) of mixture you'd see AFR shift to between 10.1 and 10.4:1**

You should never add so much water/meth that AFR goes richer by more than one full point. You always need to know what final AFR is established by the gasoline alone. Again, never try to tune or run a water/meth injection system without a WBO2 installed. Always use the smallest nozzle you can to reach the proper offset with and run the pump at 100% to get the best atomization and cooling effect.

Again, I'm not singling Snow out for criticism here. Most off the shelf kits just come with a couple of nozzles but one might be the right nozzle for you. Snow actually have a list of six nozzles available, though the kits only come with three. The #5 nozzle in the standard Stage 2 kit is perfect for your 320~400whp application but it's something you need to check into first. Devil's Own has nine sizes that range from 60cc/min to 640cc/min. The smart installer would pick just the right nozzle for his application and avoid having to run the pump at less than 100% in order to get the best atomization possible. The smart tuner would run the pump at 100% or not at all, and just raise the injection threshold a little if there was too much juice flowing at lower air flow rates.

Now, having said that you'd quite rightly ask why the hell you needed a variable flow pump controller at all when a simple adjustable Hobbs switch would turn the pump on and off via a relay quite happily at the pressure threshold you desired and do it for far less cost.

Failsafe systems

Okay, technically this issue could be covered in the controllers section because most are implemented that way. I'm making it a separate section because it doesn't have to be done with a controller.

So different manufacturers have different ideas about what failure modes might be encountered and what can be done to detect those conditions.

1. Pressure sensor. Simple. Make sure that line pressure is in a good range if the pump is running, like over 200psi. If a hose pops off somewhere or a nozzle falls off the line pressure will drop quite low, the sensor will see that and set an alarm.

Downside: Will not notice a blocked nozzle and does not guarantee therefore there is actually fluid flowing. Also would not notice if the nozzle had fallen out of it's installed location and was just spraying the engine bay with a nice mist of potentially flammable liquid.

2. Flow rate sensor. Makes sure a reasonable amount of fluid is flowing in the system when the pump is running. Some of these reference boost pressure to see that flow matches boost level.

Downside: Would not trigger an alarm if a pipe were cut or disconnected and fluid was just pouring onto the engine rather than being sprayed into a charge pipe.

3. Low fluid warning. Lights a (usually) red LED in the cabin when fluid level is low, reminding you to fill up.

Downside: You don't actually know how much fluid is left, just that it's low. You might still be spraying meth and you might not. The usual way to do the level sensing is with a float switch. If you have fluid sloshing in the tank you will get the warning light flashing on and off, which can get annoying. This can be addressed with a delay-on timer relay.

4. Programmable reference between boost pressure and AFR. The only system I know of that does this is the AEM Failsafe Wideband O2 gauge. This constantly checks AFR against boost pressure and refers to a programmable curve of permissible values. If for example there's any failure in meth delivery to the engine the AFR will rise (go lean) above the programmed base value and set an alarm. Remember you need a wideband O2 that can output AFR to your data logger to correctly tune for water or water/meth injection in any scenario.

Downside. None I can think of if set up correctly.

Note that only system #4 actually senses if the system is actually getting fluid into the engine and that it's doing it's job. #1, 2 and 3 only let you know if one facet of system performance is correct without telling you anything about what effect it's having on engine operation itself.

Note that not all of these systems do anything beyond light an LED on the controller or in the cabin, which is not the same as actively doing something about the situation. People are very good at ignoring warning lights.

Some, including the AEM Failsafe unit, have an external signal wire which can be used to actively do something useful. That could be an external signal a motorsports ECU would use as an input to command a drop in global timing, switch boost or fuel maps etc.

On a car with a stock ECU this output could be used to switch a relay you inserted into your wiring to shut the boost control solenoid down and thus limit boost to wastegate pressure only.

Tanks

Most available kits come with a small plastic tank or have options to get a plastic tank in a few different sizes. If you are running at higher power levels, like to spray at lower thresholds, and want to only fill your tank once in a long while then you're going to want a bigger tank and probably have it in the trunk. Inline check valves are essential in this case to prevent cowardly fluid trying to run away to the trunk under acceleration.

The 5th gen Legacy got a generous washer tank of about 6 liters. Note that most freeze-resistant washer fluid is indeed a mixture of water and methanol. The washer tank is in a really convenient spot, you don't need to make or find any extra space for it, and water and meth at 50/50 strength washes glass very well. For most people this is a really good solution. There's also a spot on the frame rail right in front of the washer tank where you can mount the pump upside-down so the pump head is level with the bottom of the tank so it never becomes un-primed.

Conclusion

I haven't spent a lot of time working with the all the bells and whistles Aquamist HFS3 system. I have spent a lot of time with the standard kits from people like Snow and AEM, the ones that modulate pump power, and I have one on my own car. What I can say is that if I'd known then what I know now I wouldn't have bought one.

1. The pump. Get the same damn pump from virtually any hardware or plumbing store that carries RO water purification system parts and for far less money. They're just as strong and just as reliable. Just look for a 12V one with an EPDM diaphragm and a delivery pressure of at least 250psi and you're good.

2. The controller. Don't bother. Just use a Hobbs switch you can set to your desired boost threshold.

3. Pipe and fittings. Exactly the same nylon pipe and fittings you find in the kits will be in the same hardware or plumbing store right alongside your pump.

4. Calculate the exact nozzle you need for the maximum power you're going to reach and install that before the throttle body, preferably in the intercooler end tank. These guys have the best nozzle selection I know of.

5. The tank. Don't bother with the extra tanks unless you're going to use a lot of meth or have some particular reason for not washing your windshield with a water/meth mixture. Use the washer tank you have, drill one hole in it for a level sensor and a second for a fitting to get fluid to your pump. Those who have headlight washers can just tee straight into the hose that feeds those nozzles as the stock hose is large enough in diameter.

Here's a simple wiring scheme for the system laid out above, with a relay to switch the pump, a timer relay to prevent the low-level warning light flashing on and off as the level gets lower and the fluid sloshes around, and a second relay to allow the AEM Failsafe gauge to cut power to the boost control solenoid via it's alarm signal output wire.

Notes:

* 12V nominal of course. The actual value will be more like 13.8V when the engine revs are up above idle.

** It's then your tuner's job to adjust base fueling targets to allow for the extra fluid injected and come back to a suitable final AFR.

Love meth injection on my LGT. I spray right after the IC before the intake.

I run a snow performance system with a safe inject.

I see myself adding an Aquamist system sometime with the next year or two. I'm going to have the WW fluid tank freed up for that soon.

Sounds good. Any particular reason you don't want to wash the glass with your water/meth mix?

Sounds good. Any particular reason you don't want to wash the glass with your water/meth mix?

This is going to be used for glass washing fluid. It required a little modification to fit a 5th gen.

http://www.killerbmotorsport.net/engine-bay/reservoirs/dual-reservoir-wash-coolant-2008-2015-wrx-sti.html

I like my rainx bug wash is that a good enough reason?

That would be VERY bad.

I tapped the windshield washer fluid tank and spray blue washer fluid with a 80/20 water meth mix.

I like my rainx bug wash is that a good enough reason?

Aaargh! No, don't want to spray that into the motor!

This is going to be used for glass washing fluid. It required a little modification to fit a 5th gen.

 

http://www.killerbmotorsport.net/engine-bay/reservoirs/dual-reservoir-wash-coolant-2008-2015-wrx-sti.html

:thumbsup: