Roche Posted June 25, 2016 Share Posted June 25, 2016 This is my last ditch effort to keep the car. I have very high stress and this is a huge stressor. I had it looked over by a tuner and they did a compression and vacuum leak test. There was one hose that was replaced. Everything else is normal and operating great. But there's almost no boost, still. If I keep the revs in the boost zone around 3500-4000rpm, you won't get pushed in the seat, it accelerates quick but not like it's supposed to. Below is the video I made before the vacuum leak was fixed. The only difference now is it idles smoother and doesn't rev up and down. The driving wasn't WOT. If everything is normal and the car is in good shape, why on earth is the turbo not spooling up? It must be the turbo because the car can rev fine. I can't even keep up with traffic when I pull onto a busy road. Sent from my VS985 4G using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coldsoda Posted June 25, 2016 Share Posted June 25, 2016 "not spooling up" is a pretty vague term, do you have a datalog you can post up? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roche Posted June 25, 2016 Author Share Posted June 25, 2016 I dont have a data log. I was going to get it tuned but I'm afraid of wasting money. It seems like the engine itself is creating 80% of the power, and the turbo just helps for going up hills. Sent from my VS985 4G using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JmP6889928 Posted June 25, 2016 Share Posted June 25, 2016 Plugged catalytic converter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roche Posted June 25, 2016 Author Share Posted June 25, 2016 Plugged catalytic converter. That's what I thought but it just passed emission inspection. I'll try disconnecting it from the mid pipe and also removing the front o2 sensor to see if it drives better. I removed the engine cover just for fun and it really seems to accelerate easier. That's probably in my head though After the pill restrictor line for the wastegate and the MAF sensor was replaced, it idles smoother and holds RPM but it still has a slight shake at idle. At times if I hit the throttle hard from idle, it'll stumble like a fuel cut or misfire. But we can't find anything abnormal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KRM Posted June 25, 2016 Share Posted June 25, 2016 Fuel filter? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roche Posted June 25, 2016 Author Share Posted June 25, 2016 Fuel filter? I wonder if that's all it could be. It does lose power going uphill and the plugs only have 20k on them. The filter is $80, and the Walbro pump assembly is only $100. The fuel pressure and trims were normal on their tests though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JmP6889928 Posted June 26, 2016 Share Posted June 26, 2016 Drain the tank and see if there is detritus in the bottom. Could easily pick it up from a station that just had it's tanks filled just before you got there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roche Posted June 26, 2016 Author Share Posted June 26, 2016 I'll run it really low and check in where the fuel pump is. I'll order a fuel filter too Sent from my VS985 4G using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tuning Alliance Posted June 27, 2016 Share Posted June 27, 2016 Possibly a bad boost solenoid or actuator. How much boost are you seeing under full throttle? -Brian Contact us for all your tuning and performance parts needs! Etuning the legacy community since 2008! Follow us on FACEBOOK | INSTAGRAM [sIGPIC][/sIGPIC] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtdash Posted June 27, 2016 Share Posted June 27, 2016 Stock turbos on these - VF40 - doesn't have a very good rep for longevity. Try the other stuff first. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RaceRedFiveOh Posted June 30, 2016 Share Posted June 30, 2016 Sorry to thread jack, but I just bought a Legacy GT Wagon. I plugged the accessport in and cruising on the highway I always seem to be in vac. When I get on it and accelerate it does reach like 14-15psi of boost. However if I monitor the Boost Target and the actual Boost they never seem to match. Even cruising on a flat road my target boost will be like 2-3 psi and when I switch over to actual boost I'm like 2 lbs vac. Does this mean a leak?? TL;DR - If my car is in good shape, should my boost target and actual boost be close to the same? If not, does this mean theres a leak somewhere. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tuning Alliance Posted June 30, 2016 Share Posted June 30, 2016 Sorry to thread jack, but I just bought a Legacy GT Wagon. I plugged the accessport in and cruising on the highway I always seem to be in vac. When I get on it and accelerate it does reach like 14-15psi of boost. However if I monitor the Boost Target and the actual Boost they never seem to match. Even cruising on a flat road my target boost will be like 2-3 psi and when I switch over to actual boost I'm like 2 lbs vac. Does this mean a leak?? TL;DR - If my car is in good shape, should my boost target and actual boost be close to the same? If not, does this mean theres a leak somewhere. Maybe a small one, depends on what map your on. When your cruising you never really are in boost unless your going like 100. Whats your target boost 15? 17? Whats the vac at idle? -Brian Contact us for all your tuning and performance parts needs! Etuning the legacy community since 2008! Follow us on FACEBOOK | INSTAGRAM [sIGPIC][/sIGPIC] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JmP6889928 Posted June 30, 2016 Share Posted June 30, 2016 Vacuum is the easiest way to know if you hsve a leak. A healthy engine with no boost or vacuum leaks should hold 19-20" of vacuum at idle. Hook a vacuum gauge directly to intake and see what it's holding. If it's low, start lightly spraying carb cleaner or MAF cleaner around intake connection points, TMIC, MAF, and hose connections. Idle will increase if you hit a leak. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roche Posted July 1, 2016 Author Share Posted July 1, 2016 Possibly a bad boost solenoid or actuator. How much boost are you seeing under full throttle? -Brian It was 12.6. After they fixed the vacuum leak nothing changed so I'm assuming it's still 12.6 Stock turbos on these - VF40 - doesn't have a very good rep for longevity. Try the other stuff first. This one only has 23k miles Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JmP6889928 Posted July 1, 2016 Share Posted July 1, 2016 Stock turbos on these - VF40 - doesn't have a very good rep for longevity. Try the other stuff first. I've addressed this a number of times (although you are correct in the perception of the VF40) and the true issue is the owner of the vehicle. Proper maintenance, immediate removal of banjo filters, good oil and filters, and not driving like an asshat, and there is absolutely no reason to not get 150K+ out of it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ouch1011 Posted July 7, 2016 Share Posted July 7, 2016 If you are getting 12.6 psi of boost, that is basically the stock boost level. So, if you aren't tuned for anything more than that, your car is making as much boost as it should be. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roche Posted July 9, 2016 Author Share Posted July 9, 2016 Thats interesting. The tuner said it should be at 15psi. My mechanic couldn't find anything wrong and said it's more than likely the ignition coils. I just changed the plugs to NGK one step colder. One of the spark plugs was original. Now it's misfiring bad. Mechanic suggests coils still. They do look like junk so I ordered new ones. I also can't push the connector all the way in the coil on 3 of them. I can't figure out why they won't plug in all the way anymore. Sent from my VS985 4G using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JmP6889928 Posted July 10, 2016 Share Posted July 10, 2016 Thats interesting. The tuner said it should be at 15psi. My mechanic couldn't find anything wrong and said it's more than likely the ignition coils. I just changed the plugs to NGK one step colder. One of the spark plugs was original. Now it's misfiring bad. Mechanic suggests coils still. They do look like junk so I ordered new ones. I also can't push the connector all the way in the coil on 3 of them. I can't figure out why they won't plug in all the way anymore. Sent from my VS985 4G using Tapatalk Do you have dielectric grease on the plugs? If you have too much on there, it will act like a hydraulic cylinder and force the plugs backwards. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roche Posted July 10, 2016 Author Share Posted July 10, 2016 I put some around the end of the coils but not much. I won't add any on the new ones. One of the coils wouldn't push onto the plug for a long time for no apparent reason. I removed the boot from the coil and there's just a screw at the base of the coil that the spring sits on? That didn't seem right. Sent from my VS985 4G using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roche Posted July 25, 2016 Author Share Posted July 25, 2016 Just an update. New NGK iridium plugs and new ignition coils. Accelerates a bit smoother but no torque still. 4000+ rpm and there's still no torque to be felt. The turbo must not be operating correctly. There's no other explaination after everything it's gone through the past few months. Anyways I give up on it and it's for sale now :/ Sent from my VS985 4G using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KRM Posted July 25, 2016 Share Posted July 25, 2016 If the waste gate wasn't operating correctly that can be the loss of power. Has anyone checked the turbo for any issues? Why sell it to get into another car that may or may not be a lemon? Just a thought, not trying to change you're mind. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roche Posted July 26, 2016 Author Share Posted July 26, 2016 If the waste gate wasn't operating correctly that can be the loss of power. Has anyone checked the turbo for any issues? Why sell it to get into another car that may or may not be a lemon? Just a thought, not trying to change you're mind. Interesting suggestion because I'm not sure if they checked the wastegate. After they fixed the vac leak they didn't see anything wrong with it. I have two other cars but don't want to sell this one but I can't afford throwing money at it anymore. They read the turbo making 12.6psi before the vac line fix. Unless it can make normal pressure with the WG inoperable, I don't know where the pressure is going. The exhaust is flowing fine as well. Sent from my VS985 4G using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ehsnils Posted July 26, 2016 Share Posted July 26, 2016 To check the turbo - pop off intake hose (it's not easy though) and see if it spins easily by hand with no grinding. If that's the case you most likely have a leak somewhere or the wastegate is stuck open. Leaking hoses aren't the end of the world and is not unexpected at that age of the vehicle. Pay special attention to the T connector (somewhere under the turbo) and if a hose has popped off from it then you are also missing boost. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roche Posted July 27, 2016 Author Share Posted July 27, 2016 I had the T connector replaced, that was where the vac leak was. If I'm not working I'll check the WG and see if the turbo spins freely this weekend. I'll have to look into taking the intake hose off[emoji38] Sent from my VS985 4G using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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