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Top Mount Intake Project. Autodesk


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iv talked about for awhile and now i finally am getting the software to design it. something i excel in is computer modeling. i find it more fun then actually work on the car. In about 13 hours the download will be done. and then i need to get a key but thats on my time.

 

Back to the intake.

 

the goal and over all outcome of this intake is supposed to be a ram and cold air intake. and i could imagine that it is possible to get positve boost when traveling fast enough. like maybe... just maybe.... 54 psi....haha or like 1 psi at most if any.

 

Notes:

Should use standard size panel filter

Needs a drainage system.

Maf needs to be after the drainage.

As little bends as possible.

Need vaccum lines. 3 I believe.

have some kind of heat sheild to maximize performane

 

 

I nice to collect info on what has and has not worked in the past and also i need to take my own measure ments of my car.

 

Taking input as of now of course and hope to have a working prototype in 3 to 4 weeks.

 

I don't know how to tune a car. that one thing i have not learned yet and i know it will need a tune... Right?

 

my brainstorming over the past 2 months has brought up and pushed down many ideas. right now for the idea i am looking are a standard box shape that will house the flilter. the will collect into a 3 inch tube heading left about maybe 5 inchs? not sure yet. but then down and back under its self(this is were the water will collect, in this dip) and then head back up toward the TB (this spot will host the maf) and then turn into the TB.

 

i can tweak it with the software for max airflow i believe. ill have to learn how though as i have not worked that far into the program yet.

 

 

here are some current designs i have seen that has sparked the idea in the first place.

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Same here. I hope to have rederings up tomorrow night. just a quick model to get our feet wet.

 

 

now i dont have to take the crap i get from guys at school for having a scoop with no function

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sweet zues. i would love to see it. i have access to all the autodesk programs but i have only used inventor in my engineering class at school. i had inventor on my old win 7 but lost it when the RC ran out. so i am just getting it back on now. since i am a student i can get 13 month serials till i grad from college haha. when i get off work tomorrow i come right home and whip some models up.

 

but yes. the PLTW program that our school is doing is focused around autodesk inventor. that all we have been "trained" in. we got 2010 at school and i just saw today i can get 2011. so excited. i was wacthing youtube vids on it . direct multiplication is yum yum.

 

i also wanted to design an entire chassis for my rc truck using 3/16 steel rod. like the chassis would be everthing, the base, roll cage, like a sandrail. of course i have never used the 3d point plot stuff yet. but how hard can it be. ...draw points. draw path...sweep and presto

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same here. its legal. im a student and have an account with my teacher on their website.

 

 

and wow. work was intense. like 9 hours of money coming in to save for paint and body work.

 

But..... my downlaod still aint done but its ok because i am gonna go get spec to make a product space and where i need certain tubes to connect to, in said product space.

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1 hour plus how ever long it takes to install.

 

i hate T1 connection rates. i have this super slick clocked computer and the slowest dsl in the world. my friends come over and are like. your computer is slow... im like NO my computer kicks more ass then all the computers in your house combined. most likely

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excellent idea, but I'm worried about the space you've got. I'd love to see this work, and I'd be in to make one of my own if you figure it out, but right now I don't have the time to dive into this work. If there's gonna be boost like I'm sure everyone wants, there's gotta be a rubber boot around the scoop that seats the panel filter, which takes up more space. Plus, water draining is going to be huge, but I'm sketching out plans right now for that. Add 3 evap hoses, a maf, and fit it all in a little space like that...hmm. Now you've got me thinking haha, I'll work on it tonight.
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wow. there are 3 parts to download. there are 4 hours left till the 3rd part is done. o m g

 

and wow! there is less room then i thought in that engine bay.. idk if looping the intake that hard will even be worth it. how did rallitek do it? some one here had one. maybe they could chime in.

 

and the maf. that thing is long. can you by different maf's that are not 4 inchs of tube.

 

and what i said about 3 inch pipe. NOT goona happen unless i more alot of stuff around. any one know where i should put the right front strut tower??

 

and also a question. you do that little gismo thats directly in the center of the firewall and the upper most. has a 5 or 6 wire plug going into in. i moved it. and i took it apart and saw it was gounded to the plate its on. i moved the plate with it, does it mater that i put it some where else and only 1 bolt is grounding it. the ground point is like 2 inchs away with another grounded wire. not to big a move.

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rallitek never had a top mount intake and no one made one that was maf based

 

but as for piping, you want to have as much straight, smooth pipe as possible before and after the MAF to get a smooth voltage curve when the throttle opens. You don't want to have the MAF too close to the IACV inlet or breather lines, or else you'll lose the laminar flow that you need.

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stupid maf. whats involed in swaping to map if that even makes sense or is simply enough to call possible. id imagine that i would need diff electronics right?

 

but you guys dont want that. you want a diy top mount intake for maf based car like ours. so i will continue with a maf based intake.

 

so. maf.... do they make shorter ones that work with our cars?

 

and about the boost thing and have a boot. thats in my plans too. after i get a intake made ill play with the idea.

 

and any idea about that "gismo" i asked about in my recent post?

 

 

how smooth of a voltage curve? how much can a tune fix?

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glad you're doing up a model of this. it will all have to mesh perfectly. I went out to the car earlier to take a look, and here's what I found:

 

there's less than 3" from the end of the throttle body to the front of where the scoop begins

there are 2 hoses for me that route to the intake (for the 2.2)

the maf housing is 4" long

there's another hose that routes downwind of the maf that seems to hook into the egr (car runs terribly without it, I could be wrong of the use though)

without the plastic air plennum, there's alot of room between the maf and throttle body for pipe winding or water drainage

 

from the looks of it, you can't hook up something right to the maf even if you put breathers on the filters because you still have the maf and the other hose to absolutely hook up. I was thinking you could put a plumbing bend in the pipe (it's the bend at the bottom of sinks that goes down to a minimun then bends back up before leveling out) to give more space for the hose and maf to hook up, but then you have to worry about the smooth voltage curve. It's definitely possible, but it'll be tough. wish you could just fit a housing with a panel filter attached to it...I still want to do a sealed boot to attach to the scoop to get as much pressure blowing by the filter as possible.

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ok so you guys are not expecting a diy. for the average joe.

 

ok i got the panel were i want it. and the hood closes perfect. and the panel is at just the right angle. i used a f load of strings and hotglue to get the panel in the right spot. then it sagged. so i got some straws and propped it up to the right height and angle. now i have to take measurements.

 

when i walk into my room there was 12 min left. perfect.

 

ill have the panel housing part up in 2 hours at must. probably 1 hour.

 

do the hoses suck air from the intake or blow. i would imagine they suck.

 

the idea i have is different from yours kaz. youll see.

 

would it be allright to have the maf on a long curve. like maybe a 1.9 radius arc about 1.5 from end to end and plop the maf in to middle?

 

just clicked install

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Couldn't you gut the MAF housing and put the sensor built into the pipe. I could see there being a problem with putting it in a curve though because you have different air flow patterns which would give false info to the computer. To bad the wind tunnel at my school is so small otherwise I would say the mock up and I would test the air flow patterns.

 

If I'm right the MAF sensor sends a voltage which is proportional to the air flow. To test if the MAF in a curve would work you could test the voltage through your MAF now with no modifications and put it on a curved pipe and retest the voltages.

 

This is probably more work then needed but I'm an engineer and that's just my thinking haha

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yea i working on the engineer part. stillin 10thgrade learning biology. i mean really it should be optional.

 

the maf sensor is amazing. no idea how it works. but as long as the voltage curve is somewhat smooth. now zues, when you said i couldnt tune to fix it. did you mean a random curve or just period. asking what tuning can do.

 

 

i should also mention that part 2 of the download so i had to download part 2 again. like 3 hours. not gonna do it tonight. ill just make more sketchs.

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did you copy that line from him. its identical i think haha.

 

 

yea i have not done much with the water yet. nothin really. if anybody wants to be water boy, go ahead

 

and the guy says i need 4 inchs after the maf. i think he means before and after. which is easily down.

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