2007-2009 Air Pump Delete with CEL codes and ECU Fix-Pix too

Third plate is used if not removing the solenoid.

Hi there. Im from Argentina. I own a Forester 2.0 2007, non turbo. It started CELing a week ago. I bought an ELM327 and find out about the p1410 code. The CEL comes and goes, but im getting tired of it and not being able of using the cruiser. Usually I would go for the replacement but since it's too expensive and it's likely to fail again, i started searching for a way of deleting the CEL's and I ended up in this useful thread.

I have a couple of questions... because im from Argentina buying "things" is pretty expensive and also it can go wrong (packages not getting here because of custom problems and stuff like that) so I want to know everything I can before buying the tactrix and the block off plates.

 

First of all, what can happen to my engine if I only delete the CEL codes but I don't install the block off plates? I understand that a leak in the escape can pretty much ruin your turbo, but since my car is not a turbo...I've been driving a lot with the CEL on, so I suppouse i've been driving with the valves opened. I've only noticed less kilometers per liter performance but that could have nothing to do with the air injection. So maybe I could only buy the open source cable and delete the codes?

 

If that's not possible, I have a couple of questions about the block off plates.

I understand you need two plates to block each cylinder hole (sorry if the term is wrong, english is not my native language and trying to get the right word is a pain in the ass) but if you go only with those two, you need to cut the atmospheric sensor from the passanger solenoid. Do you REALLY need to cut it from the solenoid, or that's only if you want to remove the solenoid for space/weight reasons?

 

I've read that if you want to keep the passenger solenoid you need a third block off plate. What does this plate blocks? and why do you need it if you are blocking the cylinders holes with the other two plates? Is it really necessary?

 

 

Thank you a lot for the information

Welcome DNC. Your questions resonate with those I have

You do not want to drive around with a solenoid stuck open. Deleting the codes and leaving the issue does nothing but make the problem worse.

 

You do not need to cut the atmospheric pressure sensor out of the solenoid. That is what the "third" plate is for. To leave the solenoid, but block off at the solenoid as well as the head. It should be used if leaving the solenoid. But I admit to never testing without it. 9 times out of 10 at my shop we are deleting everything and leaving just the sensor. The elimination of the air injection system is for "off road use only" and is not emissions legal.

I take it that driving with the solenoid open makes the problem worse for the air injection system but not for the engine, right? About the emissions, I undestand that the problem is only during cold start up, the first 30 seconds or so. After that the emissions should be normal again, right? Here they don't test cold start up

That is true the emissions should be the same after the cold start up, but since infamous does sell a product that bypasses a factory installed emissions item he needs to state that removing that item as well as the codes is for off road use only because if they do an OBDII check they could see the system reporting not ready from that item not passing the test aka SES light being illuminated. Granted code removal or disabling with the Tactrix can/will fix this issue, BUT as a vendor they can not endorse doing those items to a street driven vehicle.

 

I used all three plates covering both ports on the heads and left the one full solenoid in my car I also tapped off the inlet on that solenoid in hopes to keep out moisture, that inlet was left open since that one extra plate only covers one side of the solenoid and you remove the hose that is the supply from the pump on the other side.

I take it that driving with the solenoid open makes the problem worse for the air injection system but not for the engine, right? About the emissions, I undestand that the problem is only during cold start up, the first 30 seconds or so. After that the emissions should be normal again, right? Here they don't test cold start up

 

If the solenoid is open, it is open to both the injection system pump and the motor. It is still a leak for the motor and is not necessarily good.

Mike, I can't find the block off plates on your site. Can you post a link?

They are no longer on his site, not sure why but here was his old thread about it...

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/air-pump-delete-block-off-plates-ip-t-187862.html

 

KSTech sells a 2 piece set.

 

http://www.kstech.biz/servlet/the-10/air-pump-delete-block/Detail

 

Possibly need hardware for it though.

Thanks. I was hoping for the 3 piece kit as I don't want to do anymore cutting (and I don't have a vice).

 

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I ran out and have not had more cut yet. So, I pulled them down. Very slow seller. KSTech also sells the 3rd block off plate.

Well, I may have bit off more than I can chew on this one. I started this delete because I needed to change spark plugs. Read the walkthrough numerous times, got the block off plates and started out on the driver's side and things were going fine.

However, when I got over to the passenger side I began to think I am out of my league because it seems that the intake manifold and at least the turbo inlet will need to be removed to complete this mod. Is this true or is there some way to pull this off without removing these major components?

Thanks,

Tim

i did it by removing the turbo and loosening a few bits on the passenger side. gotta remove the studs the passenger solenoid sits on. and remove a coolant hose i think. oh, and curse and f around and cut your hands all up and spend a few hours

 

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Edited March 15, 2014 by Flinkly

Thanks Flinkly. Thought it would be something like that. Got my mechanic gloves ready.

Later

might be a little tight for gloves, and i used the two nut method for the studs.

 

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^Thanks for the tips.

can you erase the codes with any obd-2 code reader?? or do I have to go to a dealership

/?? and if I have a cobb access port, can I just reflash the ecu?

its disabling the system checks that throw the codes, and since it's an emissions thing, pretty sure the dealership won't do it for you. without having a good buddy or some big bribe money.

If I'm not mistaken you can do it in ROM Raider with a tatrix cable.

yeah, thats what i did. not up on the accessport to know if that works.

If I'm not mistaken you can do it in ROM Raider with a tatrix cable.

 

 

well see that's the thing.. im no where knowledgeable to figure out ROM raider. and I don't have 4500 for another ecu...

You can not delete codes wit a code checker. The dealership will not delete codes (I do not believe they even have the capability, regardless they will not). You will need an AP, an EcuTeK license/cable or an open source set up.

Hi guys, im doing the air pump delete on a wrx, since it was half ass done when i bought the car im trying to do it the right way. Can anyone tell me what this sensor goes to?

Well after many hours of pondering and looking the only fixes are to:

 

1. open multiple systems and remove the pump system and clear the codes

2. Disable the codes via Tactrix 2.0 and ECUFlash/ROM raider.

 

Since option 1 involves draining your cooling system, opening and disassembling your induction system I am going with option 2.

 

I swear sometimes these ******* cars make you want to pour gasoline on them and throw a match

Hi guys, im doing the air pump delete on a wrx, since it was half ass done when i bought the car im trying to do it the right way. Can anyone tell me what this sensor goes to? [ATTACH]188447[/ATTACH]

 

PCV valve.