parts needed for reliable DD Stage 1 5EAT?

Just got a Cobb AP and a GFB BOV for my 08 GT 5EAT. I would like to go Stage 1 and get a tune from one of the places around Denver. Are there any parts I need to have a reliable, daily driven stage 1 setup on my 5eat? Also would I need to drain/refill my trans fluid more often or change any other maintenance habits?

Stage 1 should be perfectly fine for daily driver- and is actually recommended since it is getting you off the stock tune. It does not make much more power over stock, but will make the engine make smoother power.

 

I do not have information on your BOV of choice- the stock BPV is perfectly fine until you go way above stock boost levels. For a full vent BOV, you will need a custom tune.

 

I am assuming you want to replace for "whoosh"?

Seeing that you are a 08 5eat I can skip the up pipe and banjo stuff IIRC. Tune would be the best bet to get. You shouldn't need a tune if you go 50/50 with that BOV. I have it and don't bother on the whistling trumpet unless it was intended for dog ears. I couldn't tell the difference 50/50 or 100% VTA between the long and short trumpet.

Stage 1 should be perfectly fine for daily driver- and is actually recommended since it is getting you off the stock tune. It does not make much more power over stock, but will make the engine make smoother power.

 

I do not have information on your BOV of choice- the stock BPV is perfectly fine until you go way above stock boost levels. For a full vent BOV, you will need a custom tune.

 

I am assuming you want to replace for "whoosh"?

 

That is correct. So what about stage 2 on my 5eat? Do I need UP/DP, new intake or TMIC? Any additional maintenance?

Stage 1 will be fine, sell the GFB BOV.

 

Stage 2 needs a dp that's all, with cobb stage 2 map.

 

Start at one of those and go from there.

 

Change oil st 3500 miles or send a sample to Blackstone labs and see what they say.

 

I'm stage 2 with 7000 mile OCI but I use Amsoil 5-40 European Full SAPS, with their filter. Blackstone say's I can go to 9000 miles and send in another sample.

 

The tranny fluids should be change at recommended times.

 

For stage 2 with a 5eat, climberD makes a valve body kit, check out the tranny forum for HEXMODs.

Also, my 5eat has the common rough shift from 2nd to 3rd @ 2-3k rpm. Should I get this fixed before doing all the other work? Or does it not really harm the transmission even w/ added power?

OP has an 08, no Hexmods VB for yoooo!

a good set of tires, and a good brake setup will make a much bigger difference over stock then anything else will, other then the tune. You will get tired of stage 1 pretty quickly, especially with an automatic transmission haha

I do not have information on your BOV of choice- the stock BPV is perfectly fine until you go way above stock boost levels. For a full vent BOV, you will need a custom tune.

 

You can not tune for a vent to air blow off valve on a pull through MAF car like ours, period. An aftermarket BPV/BOV being needed at higher than stock boost levels is also heavily debatable.

You can not tune for a vent to air blow off valve on a pull through MAF car like ours, period. An aftermarket BPV/BOV being needed at higher than stock boost levels is also heavily debatable.

 

Speed density utilizes the map sensor instead of the MAF sensor, meaning, one can use any intake and/or loud VTA BOV.

since they don't make that special trans. valve for my 08, anything else i can do to extend the life of my automatic transmission with stage 2 HP/TQ levels?

since they don't make that special trans. valve for my 08, anything else i can do to extend the life of my automatic transmission with stage 2 HP/TQ levels?

 

5EAT failure in the 4th gens is directly correlated to abuse AND neglect. IE, you really have to try hard to kill it for it to die. Run it low/out of fluid, downshift until it beeps at high speed -- that kinda thing.

 

Otherwise, you should be just fine until you're pushing well over 400hp.

should i drain/refill trans fluid @ 15k miles? thinking about biting the bullet and getting some floor jacks/stands/creepers from Sears

should i drain/refill trans fluid @ 15k miles? thinking about biting the bullet and getting some floor jacks/stands/creepers from Sears

 

That's a fine interval. Replace with a good synthetic fluid and you should be fine.

My transmission is holding up to a blouch dom 3. Running just under 400 to the wheels and so far so good. I have about 8k miles and I do have a hexmods valve body. It does act weird every once and a while mostly 1st to 2nd shift but other then that has been solid. As others have stated its not a bad transmission just don't be rough and if you are going to launch it hard look into the upgraded diff bushings.

 

I run amsoil for all fluids minus the engine oil which I use motul. I've always had good experiences with amsoil in all my automatics.

 

MrTris is correct on speed density. I am running speed density but its not just as simple as reading from the map. You need a upgraded map and a new intake air temp located close to the throttle body. The new intake air temp sensor taps into the factory wiring feeding from the factory maf. Then of course the car needs to be tuned or it will not work.

Speed density utilizes the map sensor instead of the MAF sensor, meaning, one can use any intake and/or loud VTA BOV.

 

Well then that wouldn't fall into the category of "a pull through MAF car like ours", right?

Well then that wouldn't fall into the category of "a pull through MAF car like ours", right?

 

It's too bad Cobb's Support docs on Zendesk are no longer available, otherwise, I'd link you.

 

When you are tuned for Speed Density, from what I understand, the MAF input is no longer needed for A/F ratios.

I'm not disputing that. My point is that I went out of the way to state "pull through MAF car like ours".

 

When you change the fundamentals of that system by doing something like say.... converting it to SD, it is no longer a "pull through MAF car like ours"

You can not tune for a vent to air blow off valve on a pull through MAF car like ours, period. An aftermarket BPV/BOV being needed at higher than stock boost levels is also heavily debatable.

 

Well then that wouldn't fall into the category of "a pull through MAF car like ours", right?

 

I'm not disputing that. My point is that I went out of the way to state "pull through MAF car like ours".

 

When you change the fundamentals of that system by doing something like say.... converting it to SD, it is no longer a "pull through MAF car like ours"

 

Then I'm afraid I, like others following this thread, am confused as to what you're looking for. You said you wanted whoosh, which, means a VTA BOV. I gave you the correct answer, what else is there to it?

 

Oh, wait. I get it. You want to complicate this, don't you?

I'm not the OP. Stop confusing yourself. Suggest you reread the posts and see whom I am responding to. I haven't asked a single question, other than a rhetorical one.

Speed density does use the upgraded map as well as the new intake air temp to tune the car instead of using the maf. So yes the car is no longer a pull through maf. To the original OP if you do want to run any blowoff valve set to anything other then 100% recirc then you would need to be running SD so the car runs properly.

Speed density does use the upgraded map as well as the new intake air temp to tune the car instead of using the maf. So yes the car is no longer a pull through maf. To the original OP if you do want to run any blowoff valve set to anything other then 100% recirc then you would need to be running SD so the car runs properly.

 

thank you. is there a thread on this? want to make sure whoever i take it to knows what i am referring to when i say "speed density required for this bov"

It's not absolutely required. Do your research. You can get away with it and the result is that your car will temporarily go rich during throttle lift (shifting). Is it not optimal? Yes. Is it worth it to have someone convert you to SD? Probably not.

 

Get a valve that is at least 50% recirculation and you should most likely be fine.

 

Or get an adjustable one like a GoFastBits. I have it probably around 15% vent to air and I can hear it just fine. 100% is just obnoxious IMHO.

It's not absolutely required. Do your research. You can get away with it and the result is that your car will temporarily go rich during throttle lift (shifting). Is it not optimal? Yes. Is it worth it to have someone convert you to SD? Probably not.

 

Get a valve that is at least 50% recirculation and you should most likely be fine.

 

Or get an adjustable one like a GoFastBits. I have it probably around 15% vent to air and I can hear it just fine. 100% is just obnoxious IMHO.

 

the one i have coming in is a GFB Respons. once i get it put on, along with d.p./stage1 or maybe stage 2, i'll get the car tuned. good to go you think?

 

again, i am unfortunately 5eat lol

I'm not the OP. Stop confusing yourself. Suggest you reread the posts and see whom I am responding to. I haven't asked a single question, other than a rhetorical one.

 

Do you see where I got confused? Your handles are almost anagrams.

 

OP, why unfortunately 5EAT?